nicksan wrote in post #8258924
You can add a 1.4x TC to the equation to get closer...that's what I do, since I am not too big on macro. It does the job when I need it...
A 1.4x TC + Tubes won't give you more magnification, just more working distance.
Thats the problem that the OP experienced when trying to use the 135L. Its MFD kept him further away from the subject, and the tubes only serve to allow you to focus closer than native MFD, but the native MFD is the lynchpin anyways.
In general, Macro photographers fall into 2 groups... (1) the people who want to get as close as possible to their subjects (these people buy the 60 Macros, 100 Macros), and (2) the people who feel they need some working distance (these people buy the 150 Macros and 180 Macros). Adding a TC to a lens even when it has a tube attached, extends its focal length.
I've done a bunch of macro stuff around the house with my 50/1.4 + 3 sets of tubes... and have experimented with my 2x TC in the mix. The 2x TC just forces me to move the rig back from the subject. I've taken some shots with my 50/1.4 + 3 sets of tubes (1 dumb set, 1 Kenko DG set, 1 macro bellows = all 3 = roughly 280mm of extension), the results are close to 10-12:1 magnification... very wild stuff.
For anything living tho, tubes can go so far, because they rob you of stops of light - something to the order of about 1-stop per 12mm of extension. The 3 sets together rob me of literally over 10 stops of light. The only way to shoot with such a rig is with LOTS of light sources (I used 5 LED flashlights to light a single bottle cap) and hence must be still-life subjects and you need a tripod. For my shots of snail fornication dubbed "Snails Gone Wild!" on my Flickr, I used my 100mm f/2.8 Macro + 1 set of tubes (Kenko) to maintain some semblence of speed and ability to handhold + used my RayFlash as a macro light to make it possible to shoot (those shots were taken outside after dusk with little streetlight to speak of).