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Thread started 10 Jul 2009 (Friday) 11:23
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macro, dedicated -vs- tubes test:

 
versedmb
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Jul 10, 2009 20:51 |  #16

jacobsen1 wrote in post #8259859 (external link)
..Basically, for me, tubes are good enough. I don't do macro that often, so when I do see something, tubes and the lens on hand is more than enough. I wouldn't put the 100 in my bag day to day so when I did see something I'd miss it anyway. But with a 12 or 20mm tube being so small, I always have one on me (I keep one in each of my 2 bags).

Ditto.

Sometimes I don't want to carry my macro lens and some lenses with tubes actually yield better bokeh than macro lenses.

I use many of my lenses with ext tubes, mostly for flower shots.

The 24-105 is a lens that I don't use with tubes as often though, I prefer the 70-200 f/4 or primes.

These are all hand-held with kenko tubes. I don't think I could have done any better with a macro lens....



70-200 f/4 with 20mm of tubes @ f/5...

IMAGE: http://brownphotography.smugmug.com/photos/576593546_HrvFb-L.jpg


70-200 f/4 with 20mm tubes @ f/4.5...
IMAGE: http://brownphotography.smugmug.com/photos/582406717_Spd3v-L.jpg


70-200 f/4 with 20mm tubes @ f/4...
IMAGE: http://brownphotography.smugmug.com/photos/585903945_MZjhi-XL.jpg

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Jul 10, 2009 21:16 |  #17

Tubes are cheaper.


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tkbslc
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Jul 10, 2009 23:12 |  #18

form wrote in post #8260149 (external link)
Tubes are cheaper.

Actually I got my Autofocus macro lens for the price of a set of Autofocus extension tubes.


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IMAGE: http://i416.photobucket.com/albums/pp241/tkbslc/lens%20samples/IMG_7898.jpg

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Jul 11, 2009 16:58 |  #19

nureality wrote in post #8259066 (external link)
For anything living tho, tubes can go so far, because they rob you of stops of light - something to the order of about 1-stop per 12mm of extension. The 3 sets together rob me of literally over 10 stops of light.

Really? I was under the impression that tubes didn't do this because they don't have any glass elements, but maybe I am mistaken.


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nureality
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Jul 11, 2009 21:02 |  #20

shaftmaster wrote in post #8263941 (external link)
Really? I was under the impression that tubes didn't do this because they don't have any glass elements, but maybe I am mistaken.

You are mistaken. Its not just the fact that TC's have glass that robs them of light, its the effective aperature that cuts the light.


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Jul 11, 2009 22:35 |  #21

nureality wrote in post #8259066 (external link)
A 1.4x TC + Tubes won't give you more magnification, just more working distance.

Are you sure about that?
I'm talking about the 1.4x TC part.
Tubes get you closer. TC gets you magnification.

I must have special tubes and TC's then...:lol:




  
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Jul 11, 2009 22:38 as a reply to  @ nicksan's post |  #22

85 1.8 + Tubes + 1.4x TC

IMAGE: http://nicksan.zenfolio.com/img/v1/p561992272-5.jpg

IMAGE: http://nicksan.zenfolio.com/img/v1/p866448969-4.jpg

IMAGE: http://nicksan.zenfolio.com/img/v1/p778420708-4.jpg

Again, I am not a big macro shooter. In fact, I AM NOT a macro shooter.:lol: So this makeshift rig does the job for me.



  
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Jul 17, 2009 08:28 |  #23

nureality wrote in post #8264830 (external link)
You are mistaken. Its not just the fact that TC's have glass that robs them of light, its the effective aperature that cuts the light.

yeah, think of it this way... The aperture is a ratio of the size of the whole and the distance that hole is from the sensor (ie a 2.8 200's front element is much smaller than a 2.8 300 or 400). So when you put the tubes on a lens, you're stretching that lens out taking it's aperture and pushing it further from the sensor/film plane. So it'll still report 2.8, but it won't actually BE 2.8 (an external meter's reading will be wrong, but the camera should meter fine).

There's a calculation around for it somewhere, but since your meter works I only remember it from calculating exposures on view cameras in school. :lol:


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Jul 17, 2009 08:36 |  #24

ben, yore not a macro shooter. you don't need a dedicated macro ;)


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Jul 17, 2009 08:39 as a reply to  @ jacobsen1's post |  #25

I have got an 100/F2.0 non macro.
Sometimes together with tubes.

Love the result and wonder what more a "real" macro lens woud offer.

Click on the image to get full-sized one with exif.

IMAGE NOT FOUND
Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE



  
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Jul 17, 2009 09:31 as a reply to  @ hennie's post |  #26

PhatheadWRX wrote in post #8295836 (external link)
ben, yore not a macro shooter. you don't need a dedicated macro ;)

exactly. I'd never take the macro with me so backyard use is kinda not worth the $$$...

so I sold it today!


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Aug 07, 2009 14:38 |  #27

some more tests:

105mm w/ all 3 tubes:

IMAGE: http://gear.benjacobsenphoto.com/wp-content/gallery/canon-100mm-macro/img_1220.jpg

35mm with 12mm of tubes:
IMAGE: http://gear.benjacobsenphoto.com/wp-content/gallery/canon-100mm-macro/img_1221.jpg

50mm w/ 12mm of tubes:
IMAGE: http://gear.benjacobsenphoto.com/wp-content/gallery/canon-100mm-macro/img_1222.jpg

100mm with all 3 tubes:
IMAGE: http://gear.benjacobsenphoto.com/wp-content/gallery/canon-100mm-macro/img_1223.jpg

also, the 24-105 with all three tubes, set to MFD and 105mm would basically focus down to the front element (I was within an inch and couldn't get it to focus on my fingertip)!!! But it needed to be further away to get light on the damned quarter!

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Aug 07, 2009 16:37 |  #28

gasrocks wrote in post #8259109 (external link)
Photographers can be divided into two groups: those who believe they can be divided into 2 groups and those who do not.

Ah! You forget a group here: there always is the group who don't know or aren't sure ... :lol:

Kind regards, Wim ;)


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Aug 07, 2009 17:36 |  #29

nureality wrote in post #8259066 (external link)
A 1.4x TC + Tubes won't give you more magnification


yes it will

https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=578274


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Aug 07, 2009 17:57 |  #30

nureality wrote in post #8259066 (external link)
A 1.4x TC + Tubes won't give you more magnification, just more working distance.

No, not true. A TC magnifies the FL, while maintaining the exact same WD as the lens without TC. Hence magnifcation will be larger at MFD, and by exactly the magnification factor of the TC. WD will only be greater at exactly the same magnification.

Thats the problem that the OP experienced when trying to use the 135L. Its MFD kept him further away from the subject, and the tubes only serve to allow you to focus closer than native MFD, but the native MFD is the lynchpin anyways.

Again, no. It is a combination of MFD and FL, not just MFD, when using extensions, whether they are extension tubes or bellows.

In general, Macro photographers fall into 2 groups... (1) the people who want to get as close as possible to their subjects (these people buy the 60 Macros, 100 Macros), and (2) the people who feel they need some working distance (these people buy the 150 Macros and 180 Macros).

That's a rather simplistic view of the world IMO, with which I happen to disagree. There are a few more groups, IMO.

Adding a TC to a lens even when it has a tube attached, extends its focal length.

And its maximum magnification. To get maximum magnification, extender or converter is fitted to camera, tube(s) or bellows between converter and lens. This because you also double your extension this way (lens formula).

I've done a bunch of macro stuff around the house with my 50/1.4 + 3 sets of tubes... and have experimented with my 2x TC in the mix. The 2x TC just forces me to move the rig back from the subject.

Only for the same magnification.

I've taken some shots with my 50/1.4 + 3 sets of tubes (1 dumb set, 1 Kenko DG set, 1 macro bellows = all 3 = roughly 280mm of extension), the results are close to 10-12:1 magnification... very wild stuff.

The MFD of the 50 F/1.4 is 45 cm, with a magnification of 0.15X, which means image distance is approximately 63 mm. Add 280 mm to that, which results in a new image distance (back nodal plane to sensor) of 343 mm. Using the lens formula, that equates to a object distance of 58.5 mm, and hence a magnifcation of approximately 5.86 X. Spectular still, but slightly less than indicated.

For anything living tho, tubes can go so far, because they rob you of stops of light - something to the order of about 1-stop per 12mm of extension. The 3 sets together rob me of literally over 10 stops of light.

5.86 X magnification results in about 5.5 stops of light. Do note that light loss depends entirely on magnification, and hence both on FL and total extension) used. For every sqrt(2) of extra magnification factor, or approximately 1.4X additional magnification, you lose a stop of light extra.

The only way to shoot with such a rig is with LOTS of light sources (I used 5 LED flashlights to light a single bottle cap) and hence must be still-life subjects and you need a tripod. For my shots of snail fornication dubbed "Snails Gone Wild!" on my Flickr, I used my 100mm f/2.8 Macro + 1 set of tubes (Kenko) to maintain some semblence of speed and ability to handhold + used my RayFlash as a macro light to make it possible to shoot (those shots were taken outside after dusk with little streetlight to speak of).

That's impressive nonetheless, those shots that is.

Kind regards, Wim


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