*Post Your Film Shots*

^^ Nice gathering of Bill Boards. ^^

Tmax 400.... Rodinal.

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all snapped on a Holga120 with Fomapan 400 shot at 400

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Anyone recommend a small cheap freezer to stash my horde? My wifes really pissed there is not room in the freezer for food LOL.

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Wista VX | Schneider APO-Symmar 135/5.6 @ f/32 | Ilford HP5+

2 min exposure (with 0.9 ND)

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Anyone looking for a film scanner? I am selling mine. Is a Canon 9000f mark I with software and Photoshop elements 8. PM me if interested.....

I have a Rolleiflex MX-EVS (3.5 Xenar) that I got for $200 . After shooting a couple rolls through it, the shutter button became sticky so I sent it off to Harry Fleenor for a repair estimate. He got his estimate today, and he said it'd be $313 for a shutter overhaul, film transport overhaul, and a couple other minor repairs. I was looking around and found a 2.8C Planar for $725. Should I get mine repaired, or chance it another camera?

cito17 wrote in post #17321426
I have a Rolleiflex MX-EVS (3.5 Xenar) that I got for $200 . After shooting a couple rolls through it, the shutter button became sticky so I sent it off to Harry Fleenor for a repair estimate. He got his estimate today, and he said it'd be $313 for a shutter overhaul, film transport overhaul, and a couple other minor repairs. I was looking around and found a 2.8C Planar for $725. Should I get mine repaired, or chance it another camera?

Well, it is almost mandatory to CLA these vintage cameras unless the seller stated the otherwise. I CLA my own Yashica Mat and even swapped out the taking lens elements. I also paid only $70 for my Yashica Mat. Personally, I think these TLR is pretty simple to CLA yourself as long as you aren't replacing parts. Generally, it would involve removing the upper leather in order to gain access to the screws holding down the side panels. The leather removal process may damage it and you may need to replace it. You can try to slowly peeling it off. Once you are looking at the internal part of the body, study how everything works. Better yet, take pictures of it before removing anything. Generally, you want to remove the parts and clean them with WD40 or lighter fluid. Then, dry everything and to put everything back in. Then, apply grease and oil as needed. If you are handy with tinkering stuff, you could do this yourself. If not, pay someone to do it.

What I also learned is that it is best to overhaul the entire body other than cleaning one thing or issue at a time. Eventually, other issues would surface with these cameras. Now, you have a sticky shutter button. Few weeks from now, maybe slow timer. Another few weeks, maybe stiff film advance.

A few from a recent trip to Europe. All were taken with a Canon 1V with Fuji 400H. First three taken utilizing a 16-35 F4L and the last photo with a Sigma 15 fisheye

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While my Rolleiflex is being repaired, I've been messing with Polaroids

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Nice Polaroids!
What was the camera and film?

Thanks! I took these with a Polaroid Automatic Land 250 and Fuji FP-100c pack film.

Discovered Kodak Ektar 100 this past summer, going from Fuji 200, it seemed like a significant improvement. I just got access to a scanner recently, so I'll post up as they get scanned and edited.

Here is a view in Chicago:

I have been in a rug and maybe I am really done living in NYC. heheheh... So, I have been working on my DSLR scan workflow and making my move to 35mm copying. I picked up a Nikon pk 13 27.5mm extension tube to give me beyond 1 to 1 magnification ratio. All scanned with my D7000 and Tamron sp 90mm f2.5 macro less. Original resolution is 4800 pixel.

Canon EOS 3 with 24-70L. Acros 100. HC110.

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maverick75 wrote in post #17281593
Anyone need a legendary Olympus MJU?

selling mine https://photography-on-the.net …p?p=17281557#po​st17281557

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/pQmW​S3 FOR SALE Olympus MJU by AlexxxCorona, on Flickr

Don't mind if I do, thank you very much.

A couple shots from this week, on Kodak Gold 400:

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