*Post Your Film Shots*

airfrogusmc wrote in post #8321131

Highly

Love It!!!

Another one from me..

Nikon F2AS Photomic/Nikkor 85mm F/2.0 AI-S..
Tri-X 400 developed in D76..
Printed on Ilfospeed Multigrade..

circa 1981

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FlyingPhotog wrote in post #8321183
Highly

Love It!!!

Thanks Jay!

bjordan wrote in post #8313288
I agree Stregone, it's rewarding. I'm curious, did you use an orange filter for the battlefield to bring out the clouds? They look good.

I had a lot of trouble loading my last roll because the spool wasn't completely dry too. Most of that looks like dust though, not scratches. Steaming the shower a little before developing settles the dust, then going directly from the rinse to hanging while in there has helped me a lot. I stay out until the emulsion is dry (overnight) and have had very little dust to remove from my scans.

No filter. Although I just read about using red/orange filters to bring out clouds the other day and want to try it out. I just exposed for the sky and then pushed the foreground a bit in lightroom with the fill light slider. I only got 2 or 3 pictures from that outing, from the roll I already had in my camera that i topped off. I walked around in 90 degree heat for a couple hours filling another whole 36 exposure roll...and I loaded the film wrong and the film never advanced. Found out when I developed it and it came out blank. Oops! The sky was awesome that day. I've been keeping an eye out, but it hasn't been the same since

Yeah my last roll I developed I revised my procedures a bit. Before I would keep the film hanging untill I felt like cutting and scanning it. On that one picture that wasn't for a couple days. And then cutting the whole roll up into strips, setting them down on my desk, and scanning them one by one. Now I steam the bathroom up a bit, and then cut 2 6 frame strips off and immediately put them in the scanner and scan them, Leaving the rest hanging in the bathroom. After I scan the strips I put them into 3 ring binder sleeves and go cut 2 more strips. After I started doing that I have had pretty much no dust!

Stregone wrote in post #8326093
No filter. Although I just read about using red/orange filters to bring out clouds the other day and want to try it out.

Yellow, orange and red filters were standard equipment, along with a polariser in every landscape photographer's kit..

I have shot landscapes combining a polariser and red filter.. The sky comes out almost black but the clouds still their normal tone.. It's a lot of fun to experiment..

Does anybody have any tips about using a polarizer on a TLR?

mehran.mo wrote in post #8327765
Does anybody have any tips about using a polarizer on a TLR?

The trick is to maintain the same rotation. I have found it easiest to put the camera on a tripod and then manually hold the polarizing filter in front of the viewing lens to orient it, and then in front of the taking lens to make the exposure. The typically large polarizer we use for Canon lenses will be abundantly large for hand-holding the filter in front of a tripod-mounted TLR.

Rick "who does the same thing with view cameras" Denney

HappySnapper90 wrote in post #8288404
Attached is a photo from my 5D (wide view and darker) that I developed in LR2 and even had to use fill light of about 35. The other is 200 speed consumer film, negative was scanned. These are taken a year apart but at the same location, same time of day and both had sunny skies. Notice how great the highlights are in the film scan and how light the shadows are compared to the 5D photo.

So scanning film doesn't make them digital. Their film qualities are maintained! Now if films scanners can "record" such a wide range of colors and brightnesses, why can't dSLRs do it at the point of capture?!

It is possible that the light conditions (between the two different days) were exact. What about humidity levels? High humidity = softer contrast, open shadows, & better highlights on both film & digital...............​tw

Hasselblad 500 C/M 50mm FLE CF t-max 100 rodinal 1:50

Hey folks, How about a Film Discussion Thread?
https://photography-on-the.net …php?p=8333890#p​ost8333890
-Bruce

airfrogusmc wrote in post #8321131
Hasselblad 500 C/M 50mm FLE CF t-max 100 film processed in rodinal 1:50

I like the portraits quite a bit.

Question: I've heard that t-max films don't do well in Rodinal. Obviously you've had sucess with it... why do you think other people don't like it? Why does it work for you?

Bob_A wrote in post #8260588

Disney, Disney, Disney... how can I put this...?

Below are a few of my Medium Format (120 film) scans.
Gear: Mamiya 645E & Mamiya-Sekor 80mm f/2.8
Scanner: Epson V500

Film: Fujifilm Neopan 400

Film: Fujifilm Provia 400X

Film: Fujifilm Astia 100F

Below are a few of my 35mm film scans.
Gear: Mamiya 1000MX Auto CS & Mamiya-Sekor 50mm f/1.7 ($40 camera...no, I'm not joking the camera + lens was $40 )

Scanner: Epson V500

Film: Kodak Elite Chrome 100

Film: Ilford Delta 3200

Plus, here's one Polaroid
Gear: Polaroid Autofocus 660SE (The film cost more than the camera )

bjordan wrote in post #8336101
I like the portraits quite a bit.

Question: I've heard that t-max films don't do well in Rodinal. Obviously you've had sucess with it... why do you think other people don't like it? Why does it work for you?

It works quite well for me in the right dilution. Because its an acutance developer it doesn't soften the silver halide so it shows the grain more but produces sharper images. The key to Rodinal with t-max films is agitation. You need to agitate for the first minute then 5 inversions every minute after. Because of the thick emulsion if you don't agitate enough you get very uneven development.

T-max 400 in rodinal 1:50 behaves a lot like tri x 320 professional as far as contrast and great shadow detail. The problem I think most people have had with t-max films is they don't find the right developer. HC 100 is OK, t-max developer is way to contrasty at the recommended strength. I think at something like 7 or 8 to one and really long times things get better. Most people that don't process are also ones that usually don't like t max films.

I tested quite a few dev/film combos in the mid 1980s and t-max 400 and rodinal 1:50 was my favorite. I think that tri x 320 pro sheet film in a special dilution of HC 100 was maybe a bit better but for roll films this is the combo for me.