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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 15 Jul 2009 (Wednesday) 04:52
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How do you sync three AB800's to the Camera?

 
NeoTokyo
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Jul 15, 2009 04:52 |  #1

Hey everyone;

I am new to strobes but I got 3 AB800's with the 1DIII that I bought.

My question is; How Do I sync all three strobes to just 1 sync port?

I only have two sync cables that came with it and I dont know what I need to complete the set.

Is there something that I am missing that I need to buy to be able to link all three strobes in sync?

Any suggestions and reading material on how to use AB800's would be awesome too! :)

Thanks everyone.

-Eric-


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SkipD
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Jul 15, 2009 06:57 |  #2

Connect one of the units to the camera using a PC cable (supplied with the AB flash units). Turn on all three flash units. Set up your camera in manual mode (dial to "M") with the shutter speed at (or slower than) the max sync speed (probably 1/200 or 1/250 second - I don't have 1DIII manual to look at). Trip the camera's shutter. All three flash units should fire, as the output of the one connected to the camera will trip the optical slaves in the other two.

This assumes you are indoors. In an outdoor setting, the optical slaves may not be able to "see" the first unit fire.

Setting the exposure will be a function of adjusting either or both of the camera's aperture setting and/or the power level of the flash units. Adjusting the shutter speed ONLY controls how much the ambient lighting will affect the images. As long as the shutter speed is at or slower than the max sync speed, aperture setting is what will control the exposure when the light is from flash sources

You'd find the process of setting up the exposure MUCH easier if you'd get and use a handheld light meter such as the Sekonic L-358 which can measure the light from flash lighting sources.


Skip Douglas
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40Dude6aedyk
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Jul 15, 2009 07:39 as a reply to  @ SkipD's post |  #3

Any suggestions and reading material on how to use AB800's would be awesome too!

I've never read the manual of the AB800 that comes with it, so I don't know if the manual has your answer, but I suspect it does. My suggestion on reading material is to read the manual first.


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jacuff
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Jul 15, 2009 07:55 |  #4

40Dude6aedyk wrote in post #8283597 (external link)
I've never read the manual of the AB800 that comes with it, so I don't know if the manual has your answer, but I suspect it does. My suggestion on reading material is to read the manual first.

Now, you're actually obligated to suggest a really expensive solution... ;)

What the OP needs to do is buy 4 Pocket Wizard MultiMAX's. 1 for the camera body, and 1 for each light. He'll also need 3 MM1 cables to connect the PocketWizards to the Alien Bees. This solution works really well in the studio and outdoors. It also works when your Alien Bees are in range of other people using flash. Oh yeah, it even works when other photographers are using PocketWizards around you. (The Plus II channels can get crowded quick, but I've never had a problem with the MultiMAX channels getting too crowded.)


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Titus213
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Jul 15, 2009 08:30 |  #5

SkipD's answer will work with the equipment you have. Nothing else needed and probably your best bet to get started. I second his recommendation for the Sekonic L-358 meter.

If you want to go wireless I would suggest the Alien Bees Cybersyncs (external link) radio units, a CST for the camera and at least one (or better yet one for each light) CSRB.


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bobbyz
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Jul 15, 2009 08:40 |  #6

What Dave said above.


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NeoTokyo
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Jul 15, 2009 14:22 |  #7

Thanks for the quick answers everyone.
I didnt know these had an optical slave built in, thats pretty cool. So just set 1 up and let it blast away and the others will follow :)

How far is the distance on that, I would like to try some outdoor use in daylight and night.

As far as instructions go, they didnt have any when I bought the whole package. I assume you could download it from their website.

For cables, I did get two sync cables with them and the stands that I would need along with umbrellas.

As for all the cool expensive goodies, I think the light meter will probably top that list for me buying it, lol. That and a Vagabond II. :)


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Titus213
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Jul 15, 2009 14:42 |  #8

Can't tell you what range you can get with the optical triggers but it will be less during the day than at night. Obviously one has to be within the length of your cable. With Cybersyncs you get about 400 feet day or night.:lol:

Here you go - http://www.paulcbuff.c​om/manuals/ (external link)

Smart move on the light meter.


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SkipD
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Jul 15, 2009 17:29 |  #9

NeoTokyo wrote in post #8285813 (external link)
I didnt know these had an optical slave built in, thats pretty cool. So just set 1 up and let it blast away and the others will follow :)

How far is the distance on that, I would like to try some outdoor use in daylight and night.

Indoors, the optical slaves on the AB flash units work very well. I've never had a situation - even in rather large rooms (such as one about 20 x 40 feet with roughly a 18 foot ceiling) where the optical slaves did not work. However, outdoors is another subject altogether.

Because the optical slaves are on the rear of the units, they often cannot "see" the master unit when outdoors. One trick that I used to use (before getting my radio slaves) is to use a Wein "Peanut" slave on the end of a PC cord. I would position the "Peanut" slave in a position where it could see the master flash unit.

If you want to take the AB flash units "on location" where folks may be using their cameras with flash units, you will find that the AB units operating on their optical slaves will be tripping whenever somebody pops their flash. This is bad for two reasons. One, of course, is the fact that your unit(s) may be tripped just before you hit the shutter release button and the flash may not have had time to recycle. The other problem, though, is that the AB units going off in sync with the point-n-shoot cameras may cause their images to be blown out. The only solution to these problems is to use radio slaves with every flash unit having its own receiver.


Skip Douglas
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DennisW1
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Jul 15, 2009 17:50 |  #10

NeoTokyo wrote in post #8285813 (external link)
Thanks for the quick answers everyone.
I didnt know these had an optical slave built in, thats pretty cool. So just set 1 up and let it blast away and the others will follow :)

How far is the distance on that, I would like to try some outdoor use in daylight and night.

As far as instructions go, they didnt have any when I bought the whole package. I assume you could download it from their website.

For cables, I did get two sync cables with them and the stands that I would need along with umbrellas.

As for all the cool expensive goodies, I think the light meter will probably top that list for me buying it, lol. That and a Vagabond II. :)

Yep, they have optical triggers! As previously mentioned, in bright outdoor light the optical triggers might not work well. Also if you're using these anywhere around other cameras or photographers with flash units, their strobes will trip your optical triggers. If you're going to be finding yourself in either one of these situations then you might want to be considering radio triggers.




  
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NeoTokyo
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Jul 16, 2009 04:25 |  #11

What else do you guys suggest I buy for outdoor photography or just a general complete lighting kit? 1 or more AB1600? I was thinking of an ARB800 ring flash as well.

Thank you for the link Titus, I saved the .pdf :)


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george ­ m ­ w
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Jul 16, 2009 07:53 |  #12

Here's another vote for the Sekonic L-358, and if you use pocket wizards, the Sekonic with it's optional radio module will trip the lights without a wire connection. Makes it very handy for getting light readings....even setting your ratios of the different lights.
As for what else you might need for outdoor stuff....a variety of reflectors and at least one large scrim....I have one that's about 36"x70" that I like. You'll need an assitant to hold it if there is any breeze.


regards, george w

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NeoTokyo
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Jul 16, 2009 14:21 |  #13

Gotcha, sounds good.
What do you guys think about speedlites? Are they good to have too or will the strobes take care of everything? There is a 430EX II for sale for about $200 and I might stop by and pick it up, only thing holding me back is that I have to buy a 50mm 1.4 with it for $300 more.... The guy is local so I guess that helps with shipping :/

There is a local band that wants a cover shot and a few other shots and they want it outdoors in full light. The way they want the cover shot is to be standing in a corn field and have a LOT of pop (HDR) and they wanted that "Twilight" look, smooth skin and all.

Thanks again for all the really fast replies :)


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george ­ m ­ w
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Jul 16, 2009 14:58 |  #14

What do you guys think about speedlites? Are they good to have too .....

Well, yes, I am using my speedlight ( EX430 ) also, but bear in mind you are going to need a way to trip it. Either optically, which as discussed earlier, may or may not be reliable, or by connecting a wire to it....or in the case of pocket wizards ( or other wireless ), another reciever to trip from the transmitter on the camera. Since I own/use PW's that's about all I can comment on. To that end, I will say that I like my mini tt1 and flex tt5 (s). And my Sekonic. As you can tell from what I have....I LIKE WIRELESS !


regards, george w

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jbrown7815
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Jul 16, 2009 15:29 |  #15

You should really look into Cybersyncs...If you can afford a 1DIII then you should be able to afford a set of wireless transmitters... Especially if you plan to shoot outside. Plus they work perfect with the Alien Bees. No extra cable needed. The only real advantage of the PW's would be the connectivity to the Sekonic.


~Jesse~

  
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How do you sync three AB800's to the Camera?
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