Epoxy and Steel ball.

I have added D mkIII's to my bag of tricks and now I need some glue.
Both my 5D's have a BB sized steel ball epoxied to there multi controller.
I don't have much felling in the last segment of my thumb (right), a bud of mine did the epoxy and steel ball bit to allow me to feel and use the controller. It worked fine so I want to do the same with my mkIII's.
Problem is I do not know what type of epoxy he used and I don't want to melt the plastic, or turn it into goo, with the wrong base of glue.
Anybody have an Idea, as to the type of epoxy that is compatible with Canon Plastic Buttons?

I would think That a 1 or 5 min. quick set clear epoxy form a hardware store would work fine. If you would use a 30 min set epoxy it would take to long to set and would run. I have used this type on many plastics befor with no problems

Call up said "bud" and ask him what he used.

F4 Cyborg wrote in post #8288409
I have added D mkIII's to my bag of tricks and now I need some glue.
Both my 5D's have a BB sized steel ball epoxied to there multi controller.
I don't have much felling in the last segment of my thumb (right), a bud of mine did the epoxy and steel ball bit to allow me to feel and use the controller. It worked fine so I want to do the same with my mkIII's.
Problem is I do not know what type of epoxy he used and I don't want to melt the plastic, or turn it into goo, with the wrong base of glue.
Anybody have an Idea, as to the type of epoxy that is compatible with Canon Plastic Buttons?

Epoxy will not melt plastic, no worry there. You just want to avoid things like crazy glue or model airplane cement. Those will destroy plastic, and since you're trying to bond two dissimilar materials together, they wouldn't work all that well anyway. Epoxy is really your best solution.

Just use it very sparingly. While epxoy sets up it tends to "run" just a bit. Too much could run down into the multi-controller and epoxy it solid, which would be a trip back to Canon to repair it along with a rather embarassing letter explaining what happened.

A little dab will do ya.

I would imagine any good brand quick setting epoxy available at the local hardware store would do just fine. You're not putting a lot of stress on the ball when you move the multi-controller so you should be ok without the super-heavy-duty industrial strength stuff.

OOp'S forgot to add the bud part. He past a few year's back. I did however think that first off also.

What ever type he used stayed clear and of yet has not yellowed.
I recon I could try a bit on the battery compartment cover that came with it.

http://paint-and-supplies.hardwarestore​.com …plastic-epoxy-108771.aspx

http://news.thomasnet.​com/fullstory/15377

http://www.shop3m.com …8799cs508076455​&WT.srch=1

There's some incredible tweaks/DIY ideas out here on POTN within the last 24 hours.

I really dont like the felling of that multitroller either. Show us what results and what you use.

Scroll down to item 116, plastic to metal is the key.http://www.lord.com …s/tabid/3401/De​fault.aspx

Carried by most auto body/paint supply pros.

Sorry to hear about your thumb, glad your friend was nice enough to find a solution that works.

I used epoxy a lot a few years ago, and Dennis is right, it won't melt plastic. I'd mix up the smallest amount you can since it won't take much. Just a really small 50/50 mixture.

dan

Photon Phil wrote in post #8288589
There's some incredible tweaks/DIY ideas out here on POTN within the last 24 hours.

I really dont like the felling of that multitroller either. Show us what results and what you use.

Scroll down to item 116, plastic to metal is the key.http://www.lord.com …s/tabid/3401/De​fault.aspx

Carried by most auto body/paint supply pros.

I don't know about that particular product, but most automotive plastic bonding materials, including most of the Fusor line with will attack plastic in the bonding process. It would really suck to find out the hard way that it does.

Sorry, but I'll still say just regular quick-setting epoxy is all you need here, no rocket science is required.

Something else no-one else has mentioned yet, just don't forget to put some masking tape over the bits where you don't want the glue to go. In case it runs, then all you do is wipe off rather than worrying about it flowing down cracks.

You could also use a small amount of micro balloons (model shop) to mix with the epoxy resin to thicken it up and stop it running.

I've never found the rapid epoxy as good as the slower (24 hour) setting version. The quick stuff seems to fall off almost as soon as its dry.

I'd use JB Weld. It's not runny and it's very widely used in mechanical and machining circles. It can be machined like steel, although you don't care about that.

But it won't stick if you don't prepare the surface. You need some "tooth" for the cement to grab onto, both on the ball bearing and the button.

To prepare the ball bearing, get some 100 to 120 grit wet/dry sandpaper and take the shine off.

To prepare the button, sanding is a bad idea - you don't want grit inside the camera. I think I'd use the point of an X-acto knife or small pen knife to rough up the cup in the center of the button.

This sounds like a cool hack!

-js

humm maybe I'll shape me a dull cone that will fit in the circle of the multi controller out of JB weld, and then epoxy it to the button. That might work better than the BB anyway.
A little bit of this and aaa lil bit of that. Reminds me of a song

The machine part of me thanks you all kindly, the human part is rude but thankful also. If he not, I stop his heart till I get his attention.

F4 Cyborg wrote in post #8298639
humm maybe I'll shape me a dull cone that will fit in the circle of the multi controller out of JB weld, and then epoxy it to the button. That might work better than the BB anyway.
A little bit of this and aaa lil bit of that. Reminds me of a song

The machine part of me thanks you all kindly, the human part is rude but thankful also. If he not, I stop his heart till I get his attention.

Makes sense to me. You can mold it to any shape you like after it begins to set, then shape it with a file. It's about the hardness of aluminum after it sets. Once you have the right shape, a bit more will cement it in place.

JB Weld is great to work with. Last time I used it in a project was to build up a shifter shaft for a motorcycle that had been filed down by the DPO. I built it up, turned it in the lathe until it was perfectly sized, and my leak was gone...


-js