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Thread started 18 Jul 2009 (Saturday) 14:02
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Testing out a pair of ND Filters this morning

 
aram535
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Jul 18, 2009 14:02 |  #1

I got a pair of 77mm sunpack ND8 filters last week and this morning I got extra early (4:30 AM) to test them out in the early morning. I know this is a wacky test, since the point is to use them during harsh light, but I couldn't wait. I'm going to try them this afternoon as well, if I get a chance and there is sunlight.

Equipment/settings:
1Ds Mark II
RAW
ISO 100
EF 24-105 f/4 IS (IS turned off)
Sunpack ND 8 (3 Stop) Filter * 2
Manual Focus
Manfrotto 3-part Head and Legs
Remote Trigger

As a first test, closed all the way down, 25 second exposure @ f/22 ISO 100:

IMAGE: http://www.mbcli.com/%7Eawm/2009/SetauketBridge.jpg


The second a more real test, a less interesting subject, but a good proof of concept: 4 sec exposure at f/4 ISO 100.

IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO


PS Changes: Slight curve adjustment, cropped and stanard sharpening.

As always C&C is appreciated.

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Robert_Lay
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Jul 18, 2009 21:18 |  #2

ND filters, so far as I know, are not going to have any effect on the harshness of light or the scene contrast. What they will do is shift the brightness as seen by the camera and its sensor stop for stop. I.e., a 2 f-stop ND filter lowers all tones by the same amount - two stops.


Bob
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aram535
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Jul 18, 2009 23:32 |  #3

Robert,

What I used them for is shallow depth of field in midday (i.e. harsh light) I should have just said "a large amount of sun light". You can still get f/2.8, and not get completely blown out if you add enough blocks. Obviously it's a sacrifice of IQ for the shallow DOF but at times it is necessary.

I think the best usual example is high waterfall. If you want to be able to drag the shutter long enough to milky the water you need to add in many many layers of ND to reduce the amount of light entering the lens. Depending on the directions and angle this is how you can get very nice rainbows at the bottom of the fall too.

EDIT: On the second part these were +3 Stop, I had two of them so +6 stops of light blockage.


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Rankinia
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Jul 18, 2009 23:45 |  #4

I hope sunpak are well regarded as you are using lovely gear, twould be shame to lose IQ due to cheap filters. I find it rare that I cant use f2.8 in any light as my shutter speeds very rarely increase over 1/8000.


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aram535
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Jul 19, 2009 06:48 |  #5

Did a lot of research! They're actually made by Marumi. 1/3 the price, and if you look at the testing done by 2filter.com (external link), they have no color tint/shift at all.

And they're damn cheap -- Sunpak Multicoated DHG ND8 - $38 for a 77mm.


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Robert_Lay
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Jul 19, 2009 10:28 |  #6

aram535 wrote in post #8304645 (external link)
Robert,

What I used them for is shallow depth of field in midday (i.e. harsh light) I should have just said "a large amount of sun light". You can still get f/2.8, and not get completely blown out if you add enough blocks. Obviously it's a sacrifice of IQ for the shallow DOF but at times it is necessary.

I think the best usual example is high waterfall. If you want to be able to drag the shutter long enough to milky the water you need to add in many many layers of ND to reduce the amount of light entering the lens. Depending on the directions and angle this is how you can get very nice rainbows at the bottom of the fall too.

EDIT: On the second part these were +3 Stop, I had two of them so +6 stops of light blockage.

Thanks for the explanation.
Somehow I managed to get through life without ever owning one. Guess I was lucky to be stuck with all that "ASA 25" Kodachrome:)


Bob
Quality of Light (external link), Photo Tool ver 2.0 (external link)
Canon Rebel XTi; EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-f/5.6 USM; EF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5-f/5.6; EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM; EF 50mm f/1.4 USM; Canon Powershot G5; Canon AE1(2); Leica R4s; Battery Grip BG-E3; Pentax Digital Spotmeter with Zone VI Mod & Calibration.

  
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DAMphyne
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Jul 19, 2009 10:42 |  #7

Rankinia wrote in post #8304711 (external link)
I hope sunpak are well regarded as you are using lovely gear, twould be shame to lose IQ due to cheap filters. I find it rare that I cant use f2.8 in any light as my shutter speeds very rarely increase over 1/8000.

But, if you want 2.8 and a long shutter speed........


David
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Oddjob82
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Jul 19, 2009 12:05 |  #8

They look good to me. Maybe a bit too much blue saturation in both images or warm up the color temp a touch.


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aram535
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Jul 19, 2009 21:05 |  #9

Good idea -- I'll add a warm filter in PS to see how that looks.

The blue was actually the result of a 5 AM sunrise and very very thick clouds, although now that I look at the original CR2, it isn't as blue as the jpeg.


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DrFil
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Jul 20, 2009 03:25 |  #10

DAMphyne wrote in post #8306317 (external link)
But, if you want 2.8 and a long shutter speed........

just out of curiosity, what situation can you think of that you would want 2.8 and a long shutter? i ever only use long shutters during day for moving water and stuff, and those usually look better stopped down anyway..




  
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Grimlock
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Jul 20, 2009 19:27 |  #11

Like the first shot, aram. Good composition, and colors. I always have a hell of a time getting the mirrored look outa water.

Just straighten that bad boy out. And a good cleanup would be nice too. Especially the floaties in the lake and a couple spots up high.


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aram535
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Jul 21, 2009 08:17 |  #12

Thank you very much. I think the longer SS helped with the mirror, as I could not see the amount of detail shown in the photo with my naked eye.

The horizon is pretty straight [I think]. Sort of optical illusion, as the bridge is lower on the left and the right side is slightly moving away from where I could stand so it looks out of kilt a bit. The shoreline on the left is what I used.


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rebeler
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Jul 21, 2009 12:48 |  #13

I have never heard of ND filters, what are and how and when is the best time to use them? yes I am new and love learning about new "stuff" for my camera...


Canon XSI 450D, EF S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS, Canon EF S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS :lol:

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crossmax03
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Jul 21, 2009 14:51 |  #14

rebeler wrote in post #8318906 (external link)
I have never heard of ND filters, what are and how and when is the best time to use them? yes I am new and love learning about new "stuff" for my camera...

There are several threads out there with "Post your ND photos here" or some such title ...

They have many example photos ... and explanations. Search is great. ;)


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aram535
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Jul 21, 2009 16:58 |  #15

rebeler wrote in post #8318906 (external link)
I have never heard of ND filters, what are and how and when is the best time to use them? yes I am new and love learning about new "stuff" for my camera...

Neutral density or ND filters reduce the amount of light that enters your sensor. They have a very specific purpose, to allow you to have a slower shutter speed with wider apertures.

The typical example is: A waterfall.

EXample scenario: f/11 @ 1/500th - ISO 100 - 24mm (totally making up numbers)
At f/11 you'll have a large area in focus though. What if you wanted to reduce your Depth of Field, and make the water creamy so that it shows movement? You would have close down even more ... even more is going to be in focus. To the rescue, ND filter will get you: f/4 @ 1/30th - ISO 100 - 24mm. This give you the fall in DoF, slow shutter speed for nice water movement.

ND filters come in 1-3 stop filters, and most are stackable. The two shots above are a total of 2 - 3 Stop filters, so 6 stops of light total. Best time to use them, a lot of light and you want a slow shutter speed without increasing your Depth of Field. If you live in Phoenix I would

Let me know if I confused you.

P.S. I would have let you find some threads about ND images, but I can't find any recent ones here.


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Testing out a pair of ND Filters this morning
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