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Thread started 30 Jul 2009 (Thursday) 12:07
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Must Have filters...?

 
ralff
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Jul 30, 2009 12:07 |  #1

What are the MUST HAVE filters for landscape/nature photography? I have a couple nuetral density 2X and 4X, and a circular polarizer. Bought 77mm for my 10-20, and step up rings for the rest of my lenses. All srew in type, cannot afford to change to the slip in type right now. Everyone says to get a split ND, but with the screw in type it seems rather useless as it limits when you can use it, plus can't most of that be done in PP now?


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argyle
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Jul 30, 2009 17:52 |  #2

You have two of the three basic types of filters for landscape shooting...the solid ND and the CPL. The last of the big three is the graduated ND filter. If you go this route, avoid the screw-in GND's like the plague...they're basically useless from a compositional standpoint. Definitely go with the rectangular types. Can it be duplicated in software? My answer is not really...to me, it just doesn't look the same. I much prefer to use the appropriate filter and get the shot at the moment of capture. To my eyes, this looks more natural than one that's been manipulated in software.

There are also more specialized filters for landscapes, including the Vari-ND and the Vari-N-Duo from Singh-Ray. The former is a variable solid ND filter, the latter is the variable ND mated with an integral warming CPL. Singh-Ray also has a reverse GND. Beyond these, then comes the "gimmicky" filters, such as starburst, etc.

If you stick to the basic three, you'll do well.


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blackcap
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Jul 31, 2009 04:05 |  #3

The one filter I couldn't live without is my 4-stop graduated ND filter. As argyle says it can be done in software (HDR or manual blending) but I find I get better results with the filter and it saves a lot of PP time.


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ralff
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Aug 01, 2009 08:35 as a reply to  @ blackcap's post |  #4

Again, do not want to invest in a new system right now. Am using screw in filters with step up rings and from what I have read the split ND filters in screw type is almost useless due to the restriction of where you have to place the horizon?


Canon 6D - Canon 7D - gripped, Canon 50D - gripped, EFS10-22mm, 17-40 f4 L, nifty-fifty, EF 28-135mm IS, 100-400 f4.5-5.6 L IS USM, Tokina AT-X 100mm f/2.8 ProD Macro, Benbo Trekker, Feisol 3371 w/ Kirk BH-3 ball head - Epson Pic-Mate, Epson 2200, Epson 3880 :D http://www.flickr.com/​photos/WNC_Ralph (external link)

  
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argyle
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Aug 01, 2009 08:55 |  #5

ralff wrote in post #8380214 (external link)
Again, do not want to invest in a new system right now. Am using screw in filters with step up rings and from what I have read the split ND filters in screw type is almost useless due to the restriction of where you have to place the horizon?

Exactly right. But if you don't want to invest in the proper setup, you gotta go with what you have.


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ralff
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Aug 01, 2009 16:42 as a reply to  @ argyle's post |  #6

I guess I will just adjust the levels in PS, until I can afford a filter holder system.


Canon 6D - Canon 7D - gripped, Canon 50D - gripped, EFS10-22mm, 17-40 f4 L, nifty-fifty, EF 28-135mm IS, 100-400 f4.5-5.6 L IS USM, Tokina AT-X 100mm f/2.8 ProD Macro, Benbo Trekker, Feisol 3371 w/ Kirk BH-3 ball head - Epson Pic-Mate, Epson 2200, Epson 3880 :D http://www.flickr.com/​photos/WNC_Ralph (external link)

  
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blackcap
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Aug 02, 2009 05:57 |  #7

ralff wrote in post #8382046 (external link)
I guess I will just adjust the levels in PS, until I can afford a filter holder system.

Just make sure you bracket your exposures to ensure you capture the entire dynamic range of a scene. No amount of PP will rescue blown highlights.


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technodunce
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Aug 06, 2009 10:42 as a reply to  @ blackcap's post |  #8

blackcap can I just clarify something that you just said in your last post.

Is the point of bracketing this shot so that you can combine later different parts of a scene into the same shot?

If not, why do you need to do and what can you do with them?




  
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blackcap
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Aug 07, 2009 20:36 |  #9

technodunce wrote in post #8410523 (external link)
blackcap can I just clarify something that you just said in your last post.

Is the point of bracketing this shot so that you can combine later different parts of a scene into the same shot?

If not, why do you need to do and what can you do with them?

Yes the point is so you can combine the exposures later on, if you need to. Your camera can't always capture the entire dynamic range of a scene, particularly during sunrises/sunsets or whenever the sky is much brighter than the foreground, so it will only expose for one or the either in each shot.


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chauncey
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Aug 08, 2009 08:46 as a reply to  @ blackcap's post |  #10

Mega dollars for a lens and you distort the image with another piece of glass...learn to use LightRoom/Photoshop.


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