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Thread started 18 Aug 2009 (Tuesday) 00:59
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RRS/Arca Swiss Plate/bracket dimmensions

 
Vermin87
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Aug 18, 2009 00:59 |  #1

Hey guys,

I'm working at a machine shop, learning CNC. I'm attempting to make something similar to an RRS L-plate as a learning project. For future compatability, I want it to match the stuff that is out there as best I can. Since I don't already have one, can someone give me the dimensions of the dovetail portion of the Arca Swiss plates or the RRS mounting areas? I need to know the height of the dovetail and two widths


I hope someone can make sense of my drawing. I know on the RRS plates, it's only half the dovetail, but it should still be the same dimensions. If someone has a plate and a set of calipers, to within +/-0.001in would be nice.

Thanks!


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czeglin
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Aug 18, 2009 10:30 |  #2

Rats, mine is at home or else I could help you out. Don't forget to consider that there may be a small flat on that inside groove or outside corner, not to mention fillets in various places. And, finally, even if you measure one and reverse engineer it you'll never learn what their tolerances are, so be careful! I wouldn't want to use a homemade one in their (notoriously finicky) lever release clamps. Stick to the screw clamps only for safety.

Good luck! If I had CNC access I would definitely make my own.


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ntc3
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Aug 18, 2009 10:42 |  #3

i have a rrs plate, but no set of calipers. sorry.

+1 the use of screw clamps instead of the lever release clamp.




  
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Vermin87
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Aug 18, 2009 15:19 |  #4

ntc3 wrote in post #8480508 (external link)
i have a rrs plate, but no set of calipers. sorry.

+1 the use of screw clamps instead of the lever release clamp.


Think you can get me some rough estimates then? As accurate as you can...most important is dimension "a"


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pgruiz123
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Aug 18, 2009 21:29 as a reply to  @ Vermin87's post |  #5

My calipher only does to .01".




  
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ed ­ rader
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Aug 18, 2009 21:57 |  #6

czeglin wrote in post #8480449 (external link)
Rats, mine is at home or else I could help you out. Don't forget to consider that there may be a small flat on that inside groove or outside corner, not to mention fillets in various places. And, finally, even if you measure one and reverse engineer it you'll never learn what their tolerances are, so be careful! I wouldn't want to use a homemade one in their (notoriously finicky) lever release clamps. Stick to the screw clamps only for safety.

Good luck! If I had CNC access I would definitely make my own.

i've used both. for me the lever clamps are "safer". actually i find the flip lever much safer. one instance where i might prefer a screw clamp is when using a big gun that's carried over the shoulder on monopod or tripod for long periods of time.

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ed ­ rader
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Aug 18, 2009 21:58 |  #7

Vermin87 wrote in post #8478529 (external link)
Hey guys,

I'm working at a machine shop, learning CNC. I'm attempting to make something similar to an RRS L-plate as a learning project. For future compatability, I want it to match the stuff that is out there as best I can. Since I don't already have one, can someone give me the dimensions of the dovetail portion of the Arca Swiss plates or the RRS mounting areas? I need to know the height of the dovetail and two widths

I hope someone can make sense of my drawing. I know on the RRS plates, it's only half the dovetail, but it should still be the same dimensions. If someone has a plate and a set of calipers, to within +/-0.001in would be nice.

Thanks!

RRS and wimberley plates are made to the tightest standards. both are the only plates recommended for the RRS flip lever release...and yes they do make a difference :D.

ed rader


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Vermin87
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Aug 19, 2009 12:14 |  #8

Well, seems there are many warnings but no measurements yet....

I was going to originally design my own system, but i figured it would be best to at least try and match the RRS/Wimberly plate sizes. Can someone please give me as accurate of a measurement as you can?

With screw types, I can under-size but I can't oversize.


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Wilt
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Aug 19, 2009 22:58 |  #9

My caliper does not open wide enough to take a dimension for you. BTW, your illustration shows sharp corners, and a real plate is decidedly radiused. And the upper two surfaces are PARALLEL to each other. Your attempt will surely fail unless you see a real plate!


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Todd ­ Lambert
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Aug 19, 2009 23:02 |  #10

I say buy one, get the process down, mill a bunch and then sell them on here for $5 ;-)a to recoup your costs.. plus some.




  
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Vermin87
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Aug 20, 2009 01:40 |  #11

Wilt wrote in post #8490779 (external link)
Your attempt will surely fail unless you see a real plate!

Something inherent to the design of a trapezoidal-shaped plate like the RRS plates is that if you keep tightening it, it will eventually clamp with screw-type clamps. All I have to make sure of is that I am within the tolerances of the clamp. I cannot have the plate's base wider than the clamp can open and I cannot have the plate's base smaller than the clamp can close onto. For most instances, this is not something that requires a tolerance of 0.001", let alone 0.125"! Most screw-type clamps can accomodate plates that are a little smaller or larger than the ones designed for it. Even if the groove is not deep enough, the clamp will still hold onto the plate....but I'll probably make it "deeper" than visibly necessary.

I think I found an answer on RRS's website. Their multipurpose rails are 1.5" wide and 0.37" high..the exact dimensions I have in my original drawing, actually, haha. I'll put a light chamfer on the edge to ensure it doesn't have sharp corners like my drawing. My drawing is like that for simplicity's sake. No way would I expect any of you, let alone myself, to have the tooling to determine the radius of the chamfers.

Also, my workplace prohibits me from doing work-related projects for personal benefit (i.e. selling the stuff we make without approval). This is first an foremost a project for learning CNC. It is secondly something I am interested in and can take home and use, instead of practicing on scrap metal making worthless garbage that I don't care about making look nice. I am getting paid to make it though, which is definitely a bonus.


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funhouse69
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Aug 20, 2009 04:10 |  #12

I second the buy one and they have a really nice return policy.

I will have to check the accuracy of my caliper when I get home. I'd like a few samples in return :-)


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Lowner
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Aug 20, 2009 06:30 as a reply to  @ funhouse69's post |  #13

As Wilt has said, the sharp corners are heavily rounded, I'd guess my RRS 30D body plate has a radius of almost 1mm, certainly more than 0.5mm.


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Wilt
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Aug 20, 2009 07:54 |  #14

Vermin87 wrote in post #8491457 (external link)
Something inherent to the design of a trapezoidal-shaped plate like the RRS plates is that if you keep tightening it, it will eventually clamp with screw-type clamps. All I have to make sure of is that I am within the tolerances of the clamp. I cannot have the plate's base wider than the clamp can open and I cannot have the plate's base smaller than the clamp can close onto. For most instances, this is not something that requires a tolerance of 0.001", let alone 0.125"! Most screw-type clamps can accomodate plates that are a little smaller or larger than the ones designed for it. Even if the groove is not deep enough, the clamp will still hold onto the plate....but I'll probably make it "deeper" than visibly necessary..

But you don't even have the right form factor, much less the correct dimension! But you're a student and know everything! :rolleyes:


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Vermin87
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Aug 20, 2009 18:20 |  #15

Wilt wrote in post #8492377 (external link)
But you don't even have the right form factor, much less the correct dimension! But you're a student and know everything! :rolleyes:

I've probably taken more mechanical design classes than at least half of the members of this forum. Most people on this forum do not know how to use Castigliano's theorem is or how to do FEA, let alone what they even mean. I do. Please do not disregard the education that I have worked hard at. I have seen the plates before. I live 3 minutes from the RRS showroom and have been there numerous times. I'd just feel a little weird going in with calipers and telling them "Oh, I'm just trying to duplicate your plates...that's all."

I acknowledge the fact that actually getting a hold of a plate is the best idea, but I don't think it's worth it for me to buy a $50+ plate just to take some measurements off it.

Once again, I'm not making this for profit. I'm making this to learn the whole CNC process. I thought an L-plate would be fun because it is a multi-setup part and I could use it for my camera. I'm actually making a whole flash bracket assembly but I thought it would be easiest to ask about L-plate dimensions, since most people would own something like it. Just because my drawing is simple does not mean my final design is like that. Here is a better rendering if it helps you visualize it better.


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RRS/Arca Swiss Plate/bracket dimmensions
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