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Thread started 18 Aug 2009 (Tuesday) 14:48
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Is this too much?

 
caroleigh
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Aug 18, 2009 14:48 |  #1

I didn't notice exactly how dull my photos were (from my other thread) until someone on another thread mentioned she wished they were more vibrant.

So I added a little color. I don't like to add a whole lot of color to photos with more then one person in them, I tend to kill skin tones.

Which do you prefer?

Original:

IMAGE: http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/zz39/caroltrentlerphotography/11-13-8-16-1451-web.jpg

Color:
IMAGE: http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/zz39/caroltrentlerphotography/11-13-8-16-1451-webcopy.jpg

7D / 40D / 70-200mm 2.8L / Tamron 28-75mm 2.8 / 50mm 1.8 / Canon 85mm F/1.8 / kenko 1.4 / 580ex

  
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carshop
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Aug 18, 2009 14:49 |  #2

looks good to me


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clarence
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Aug 18, 2009 15:02 |  #3

Or you could reduce the +1 Exposure Compensation that you're using and just lift the shadows without washing out the colors in the first place.

I think the black uniforms are throwing off your exposure, then you're magnifying the problem with the EC.


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canonnoob
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Aug 18, 2009 15:03 |  #4

^^you are correct sir...


OP- you are over exposed... if you bring down your exposure then you will be a little better.. bring down that and add a smidge of contrast and youll be happy.


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clarence
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Aug 18, 2009 15:09 |  #5

Plus, by not wasting that extra stop on +1 EC over-exposure, she'll pick up a stop and can get the shutter speed twice as fast.

Or, on a harsh day like that, add a CPL and really watch your colors pop. :cool:


For Sale: 1D, T1i, 800mm, 600mm

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caroleigh
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Aug 18, 2009 15:16 |  #6

If I brought my exposure down they were under exposed and I lost too much under the helmet. The sun was the same the day before and I shot at 2/3 and faces were too dark. When I tried to lighten them with a curves adjustment I got nothing but noise under the helmets and they were horrible.

When I attempted to shoot 2/3 this day my histogram showed underexposed. Isn't it better to over expose a little then to under expose?

I took the suggestion of another here on the forum that said before in harsh sun I should turn the contrast down, was this wrong?

Thank you for the help, I need all I can get. I'm just not sure I am understanding. I seem to be having problems getting a proper exposure. I don't know how to fix the problem if 2/3 says I am underexposed and +1 you say says I am over? Could it be from my post processing?


canonnoob wrote in post #8481980 (external link)
^^you are correct sir...

OP- you are over exposed... if you bring down your exposure then you will be a little better.. bring down that and add a smidge of contrast and youll be happy.


7D / 40D / 70-200mm 2.8L / Tamron 28-75mm 2.8 / 50mm 1.8 / Canon 85mm F/1.8 / kenko 1.4 / 580ex

  
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caroleigh
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Aug 18, 2009 15:17 |  #7

So please tell me, if I didn't overexpose by +1, how would I have gotten facial detail under the helmet? Everything I have tried has been wrong?

clarence wrote in post #8482012 (external link)
Plus, by not wasting that extra stop on +1 EC over-exposure, she'll pick up a stop and can get the shutter speed twice as fast.

Or, on a harsh day like that, add a CPL and really watch your colors pop. :cool:


7D / 40D / 70-200mm 2.8L / Tamron 28-75mm 2.8 / 50mm 1.8 / Canon 85mm F/1.8 / kenko 1.4 / 580ex

  
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canonnoob
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Aug 18, 2009 15:20 |  #8

caroleigh wrote in post #8482047 (external link)
If I brought my exposure down they were under exposed and I lost too much under the helmet. The sun was the same the day before and I shot at 2/3 and faces were too dark. When I tried to lighten them with a curves adjustment I got nothing but noise under the helmets and they were horrible.

When I attempted to shoot 2/3 this day my histogram showed underexposed. Isn't it better to over expose a little then to under expose?

I took the suggestion of another here on the forum that said before in harsh sun I should turn the contrast down, was this wrong?

Thank you for the help, I need all I can get. I'm just not sure I am understanding. I seem to be having problems getting a proper exposure. I don't know how to fix the problem if 2/3 says I am underexposed and +1 you say says I am over? Could it be from my post processing?

What does your PP work flow look like? you have to remember what you are metering off of.. what was your metering here?


David W.

  
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clarence
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Aug 18, 2009 15:23 |  #9

Post processing is not going to help as much as getting the exposure as correct as possible in-camera in the first place. EC and contrast settings are also going to effect exposure.

Beyond +1 EC, what 40D in-camera Contrast settings are you using? Did you customize Contrast in a Picture Style?

What PP are you using?

Do you shoot RAW+JPEG?

Do you have a quality CPL?


For Sale: 1D, T1i, 800mm, 600mm

5D3, 1D4, 7D, 600/4L, 200/1.8L, Sigmonster 300-800mm, 80-200/2.8L MDP, 28-70/2.8L, 85/1.8, 50/1.4, 12-24mm, (4) 550EXs, (4) WL strobes, PW MiniTT1/FlexTT5s/AC3/A​C9s
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caroleigh
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Aug 18, 2009 15:30 |  #10

clarence wrote in post #8482096 (external link)
Post processing is not going to help as much as getting the exposure as correct as possible in-camera in the first place. EC and contrast settings are also going to effect exposure.

Beyond +1 EC, what 40D in-camera Contrast settings are you using? Did you customize Contrast in a Picture Style? Picture style, standard I set it to -1

What PP are you using? Just a curves adjustment (in the one that says Original) The color version I used a color pop action

Do you shoot RAW+JPEG? No raw

Do you have a quality CPL?

No, I don't have one, is there one you recommend?


7D / 40D / 70-200mm 2.8L / Tamron 28-75mm 2.8 / 50mm 1.8 / Canon 85mm F/1.8 / kenko 1.4 / 580ex

  
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clarence
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Aug 18, 2009 15:37 |  #11

Stay away from the cheap ebay CPLs. I learned that lesson the hard way... ruined an entire day of lacrosse shots.

I have good ones from Hoya, Heliopan, and Marumi (various sizes).


For Sale: 1D, T1i, 800mm, 600mm

5D3, 1D4, 7D, 600/4L, 200/1.8L, Sigmonster 300-800mm, 80-200/2.8L MDP, 28-70/2.8L, 85/1.8, 50/1.4, 12-24mm, (4) 550EXs, (4) WL strobes, PW MiniTT1/FlexTT5s/AC3/A​C9s
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namasste
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Aug 19, 2009 10:20 |  #12

I've said this a thousand times here but here goes again....low opacity soft light layer. Boosting saturation is not the way to gain vibrance imo. It can help if used sparingly but you need contrast as well. The soft light layer does both. Before that, I'd open the image in PS using the Open As, then select Camera Raw from the drop down. In ACR, use the sliders to add fill, bring down exposure, deepen blacks and add some vibrance (which is really a mid tone contrast adjustment). Then open the image in PS, tweak as desired, add the soft light layer at whatever opacity suits you and I think you'll see a lot more zing. If that doesn't do it, then the image is probably not a keeper. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have questions.

Scott


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AdamLewis
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Aug 19, 2009 16:17 |  #13

One thing thats definitely too much here is the sharpening. You need to ease up on that.


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caroleigh
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Aug 19, 2009 17:00 as a reply to  @ AdamLewis's post |  #14

This is sharpened for web...the printable version is not sharpened like this. I'll tone down the web sharpening in the future...thanks.


7D / 40D / 70-200mm 2.8L / Tamron 28-75mm 2.8 / 50mm 1.8 / Canon 85mm F/1.8 / kenko 1.4 / 580ex

  
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namasste
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Aug 19, 2009 20:13 |  #15

caroleigh wrote in post #8488896 (external link)
This is sharpened for web...the printable version is not sharpened like this. I'll tone down the web sharpening in the future...thanks.

I think you might have it backwards then.


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