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Thread started 18 Aug 2009 (Tuesday) 23:59
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nodal point of 16-35mm f/2.8L

 
rent
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Aug 18, 2009 23:59 |  #1

Has anyone already figured out where the nodal point is for 16-35mm f/2.8L (first gen) at 16mm? Thanks! -alex


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GPFocussed
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Aug 19, 2009 00:15 |  #2

rent wrote in post #8484553 (external link)
Has anyone already figured out where the nodal point is for 16-35mm f/2.8L (first gen) at 16mm? Thanks! -alex

The lens' nodal point will also depend on what camera body you have attached. Here is a link that should help you determine yours with a simple excercise:

http://dgrin.smugmug.c​om/gallery/2114189 (external link)


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rent
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Aug 19, 2009 00:21 |  #3

GPFocussed wrote in post #8484620 (external link)
The lens' nodal point will also depend on what camera body you have attached. Here is a link that should help you determine yours with a simple excercise:

http://dgrin.smugmug.c​om/gallery/2114189 (external link)

thanks. i am aware of the procedure; but on the 16-35 it's quite elusive.

i do not think it depends on the body that's attached. this is an attribute of the lens.

note: the proper term is probably "entrance pupil", but i think you all know what i'm asking -- the proper pivot point for panos in order to avoid parallax error.

thanks!

-alex


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Mark ­ Vuleta
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Aug 19, 2009 04:38 |  #4

rent wrote in post #8484640 (external link)
thanks. i am aware of the procedure; but on the 16-35 it's quite elusive.

-alex

Not sure what you mean by "elusive" but that is the procedure you require. The targets used in the posted link are quite large (as in width) but are easy to see.

For setting a nodal point setting with the appropriate pano head in both directions (vertical as well as horizontal), some people use a mesh set up but it is a pain to set up. Generally, you would only need to do it once (per focal length) and as long as you keep a register of the distances, it is fully repeatable.




  
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argyle
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Aug 19, 2009 06:07 as a reply to  @ Mark Vuleta's post |  #5

...and unless you have very close foreground objects in your composition, setting the nodal point would not be necessary.


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SkipD
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Aug 19, 2009 07:12 |  #6

The target table is not a requirement when setting up the position of the camera/lens to pivot at the nodal point of the lens. All that is required for a target is a foreground object and a distant object. When the camera/lens is pivoting at the nodal point, the relationship of the foreground and background objects does not change as the camera/lens is swung from side to side.

As said above - if there are no foreground objects, you don't really need to worry about setting the pivot point at the nodal point.


Skip Douglas
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joeseph
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Aug 19, 2009 08:14 |  #7

from memory, if you rotate around a point roughly where the red ring is you won't be too far off.


some fairly old canon camera stuff, canon lenses, Manfrotto "thingy", and an M5, also an M6 that has had a 720nm filter bolted onto the sensor:
TF posting: here :-)

  
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nodal point of 16-35mm f/2.8L
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