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Thread started 13 Sep 2009 (Sunday) 08:30
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Good Calibration hardware + software?

 
Chambord
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Sep 13, 2009 08:30 |  #1

Im looking to buy a calibrator for my Mac Pro and Macbook Pro and I was wondering which is best for sub £100?

If its hugely worth it then more up and over £100 is ok.

Recommendations? (Don't mind second hand!)

Cheers




  
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ChasP505
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Sep 13, 2009 09:11 |  #2

Concorde Rules wrote in post #8635537 (external link)
Recommendations? (Don't mind second hand!)

Search for a lightly used EyeOne Display 2, Spyder3 Elite, or Monaco Optix XR Pro. I bought my Spyder3 Elite used and saved about 40%.


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Chambord
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Sep 13, 2009 13:00 |  #3

Found a EyeOne Display 2 for £75, £140 new...

Spyder3 Pro is £89 new, why is the elite so much better? (Im not that hard core user, I'd just like my screens to be slightly better calibrated than they are now :p)




  
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René ­ Damkot
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Sep 13, 2009 14:09 |  #4

I wonder whether the Monaco Optix XR Pro software will work under a newer OSX?

I use it on 10.4.11 and I think it will run on 10.5. Not sure about 10.6 though.

It's a pretty decent calibrator though. As is the iOneDisplay2.


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ChasP505
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Sep 13, 2009 15:06 |  #5

Concorde Rules wrote in post #8636584 (external link)
Found a EyeOne Display 2 for £75, £140 new...

Grab it!

Concorde Rules wrote in post #8636584 (external link)
Spyder3 Pro is £89 new, why is the elite so much better?

Because the Elite version competes feature for feature with the EyeOne Display 2. The so-called "Pro" version software lacks certain desirable features, like being able to specify a custom target luminance value.


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Chambord
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Sep 18, 2009 19:44 |  #6

Ok got a Eye-One Display 2 for £90 in the end :)

However now im confused by the color temperature I want to head for?

6500K looks incredibly blue (but according to the checker the best dE value of a tad over 1 but the native of about 6k is more out, about dE of 1.2 but looks much more natural.

As a photographer who wants to print and post on the net going for native or 6500k or what?

Cheers!




  
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ChasP505
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Sep 19, 2009 10:11 |  #7

Concorde Rules wrote in post #8668486 (external link)
6500K looks incredibly blue (but according to the checker the best dE value of a tad over 1 but the native of about 6k is more out, about dE of 1.2 but looks much more natural.

As a photographer who wants to print and post on the net going for native or 6500k or what?

On a laptop, whether Mac or PC, I'd stay with the Native setting and not worry so much about the dE. The proof will be in whether your prints match the display. Make sure you do the calibration in a dim room with no light projected onto the screen. Allow the screen to warm up for at least 30 minutes.


Chas P
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RDKirk
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Sep 19, 2009 10:40 |  #8

Concorde Rules wrote in post #8668486 (external link)
Ok got a Eye-One Display 2 for £90 in the end :)

However now im confused by the color temperature I want to head for?

6500K looks incredibly blue (but according to the checker the best dE value of a tad over 1 but the native of about 6k is more out, about dE of 1.2 but looks much more natural.

As a photographer who wants to print and post on the net going for native or 6500k or what?

Cheers!

If you're using a good printing lab, they can tell you what setting to use for their printing processes.


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Chambord
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Sep 19, 2009 10:47 |  #9

ChasP505 wrote in post #8671051 (external link)
On a laptop, whether Mac or PC, I'd stay with the Native setting and not worry so much about the dE. The proof will be in whether your prints match the display. Make sure you do the calibration in a dim room with no light projected onto the screen. Allow the screen to warm up for at least 30 minutes.

LED Based Macbook Pro was my test subject in a dark room.

Got the Luminance to 122.2 and black to 0.19.

So happy there atleast!




  
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ChasP505
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Sep 19, 2009 12:17 |  #10

Concorde Rules wrote in post #8671171 (external link)
...Got the Luminance to 122.2 and black to 0.19...

Important to not force the Brightness all the way to 0 to achieve a target luminance. If the display is at say 140cd/m2 at 5-10% Brightness, I'd live with it. And don't force the Black point either. Just let it fall where it falls relative to the white luminance, as long as the ratio of white to black is at least 400:1.

120 / 400 = .30.


Chas P
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Chambord
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Sep 19, 2009 19:19 |  #11

ChasP505 wrote in post #8671576 (external link)
Important to not force the Brightness all the way to 0 to achieve a target luminance. If the display is at say 140cd/m2 at 5-10% Brightness, I'd live with it. And don't force the Black point either. Just let it fall where it falls relative to the white luminance, as long as the ratio of white to black is at least 400:1.

120 / 400 = .30.

Ohhhh ok.

Yes when I was calibrating my 24" here it said 120 cd/m2 was the recommended value for a LCD.

I might up that again, although it looks very nice and conformable at 120 cd/m2.

6500k and 2.2 gamma.

Am I wrong in thinking that paper white should equal screen white?

White has a tint to it at 6500K... maybe its the screen *shrug*




  
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ChasP505
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Sep 19, 2009 20:44 |  #12

Concorde Rules wrote in post #8673073 (external link)
Am I wrong in thinking that paper white should equal screen white?

The important thing is how your prints match the screen when viewed under appropriate lighting.

Concorde Rules wrote in post #8673073 (external link)
White has a tint to it at 6500K... maybe its the screen *shrug*

Maybe you should try Native...


Chas P
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