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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Discussion Still Life, B/W & Experimental 
Thread started 14 Sep 2009 (Monday) 07:41
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Brenizer Method (Mosaic Stiches)

1,021 posts
Joined Sep 2008
Sep 14, 2009 07:41 |  #1

I typed this long explanatory post in the Canon 50mm f/1.4 thread and figured it would be good for others to read and try out themselves.

What is the Brenizer Method wrote:
=What is the "Brenizer Method"]Its using a set Focal Length and taking a shot of your subject then taking individual shots around the subject until you capture the larger frame you want to create. You then take those frames and have a program stitch them all together.

For instance, the tree shot on this page, one frame was actually of the flowers around the middle tree. I then shot around the flowers to capture everything else around it.

I could have used a wider lens (like the 24mm f/1.4) but the DoF at the distance I was standing probably wouldn't have been as dramatic and the perspective would not have that "normal" 50mm look.

In a sense, its almost as if I'm shooting a 50mm lens on a Medium Format or Large Format camera (due to the increased Field of View). The original file of these "Mosaic" images weighed in at about 60MB images (so you can imagine the large prints that could be made from these).

If anyone wants the exact way I go about it (as far as camera settings and details on the software end), let me know.

Also here's a link to the Flickr group that utilizes this method:​groups/brenizermethod/ (external link)

The Process wrote:
*Camera settings*

1) Set to Manual
2) Set exposure based on the aperture that you want (I used my 50mm wide open). Make sure Auto ISO isn't on (if applicable)
3) Decide on if you want to shoot RAW or JPEG (I do these with JPEG since processing all those RAW files, then exporting them would be a pain).
4) If you chose JPEG, make sure to set your White Balance to the current lighting scenario (Auto White Balance will cause color shifts when you want every frame to be the same). If you're shooting RAW, you obviously don't have to worry about White Balance.

With all that set, you're ready to start shooting


1) Focus your lens (Auto or Manual) on your subject. Once you've done that make sure to turn off the AF (via the switch on the lens or don't worry if you use AF lock) so that every image stays in that focused position.

2) Shoot your subject then shoot in a spiral formation around your subject, making sure to clip each frame by 25% with the former frame. Doesn't have to be exact but you want to keep a little of the former frame in the next frame so that photomerging can line each image up nicely (just like you would in a Panoramic image). This is one area that feels awkward at first, so don't worry if you feel you may not have done it right. You'll see any problem areas when you get back and render it then learn from that.

3) Keep shooting until you've increased the Field of View around your subject to your desired amount

*Post Processing*

You can use Photoshop but as I stated, you may run into Photoshop leaving seams where each frame overlaps. I use Kolor AutoPano but its expensive (albeit, very good at what it does). I don't have any experience with it but I've read good things about Hugin *Click Me* (external link). Its a open source Panoramic stitching software (which is also available on OSX, I think). So I would recommend trying that over Photoshop first.

Post processing just involves you taking all those JPEG images and using whatever software you choose to stitch them all together. Once its done stitching them and outputting the file, you'll be able to do whatever you want with it. The file will be extremely dense (well, depending on how many frames you've shot and at what resolution).

I end up taking that large file and editing it Photoshop (cropping, level adjustment and resizing). Just make sure your system can handle such a big file.

Here are my shots that use the technique...




Flickr (external link)

"What a Tool I am"
9,002 posts
Likes: 107
Joined Nov 2002
Sep 24, 2009 20:11 |  #2

I really like the 2nd shot... it looks like it's out of one of those new big budget movies from China.

I guess you didn't take enough pics for #3 eh? That's something that has to be learned with this technique.

EOS R6 Mark II - Sigma 50/1.4 Art - Sigma 14-24/2.8 Art - Canon EF 70-200/2.8L Mark III - Godox Xpro-C - Godox TT685C x2

Senior Member
825 posts
Likes: 9
Joined Oct 2008
Location: Denver, Co
Oct 01, 2009 13:36 |  #3

wow, this is pretty neat. I'm familair with using multiple shots to stich together a pano, but I've always used a slower aperture (like f8/10) for a maximum DOF to keep continuity in the scene. This sound slike that idea, only the opposite. very cool.

Unfortuantely, the only fast lens I have is the nifty-fifty. Have you ever tried this with a slower aperture (like 3.x or 4.x)?​photos/jrmelot/ (external link)

246 posts
Joined Oct 2007
Location: Philadelphia, Pa
Dec 11, 2009 13:42 |  #4

Autopano is a great program! what type of PP did you do for that 2nd shot?

1,021 posts
Joined Sep 2008
Dec 11, 2009 14:14 |  #5

gorgon2k wrote in post #9178353 (external link)
Autopano is a great program! what type of PP did you do for that 2nd shot?

I used Nik Silver Effex Pro Plugin (for Photoshop) which allowed me to convert to Black and White but more importantly easily allowed me to apply a dual tone (I believe it was Blue in the Shadows and Orange in the Highlights). I believe you can apply dual tones in Photoshop without the plugin but I don't know how.

jrm27 wrote in post #8741996 (external link)
Unfortuantely, the only fast lens I have is the nifty-fifty. Have you ever tried this with a slower aperture (like 3.x or 4.x)?

Sorry for the late response but using a slower lens doesn't have the same look. Using a Fast 50mm lens is actually at the limit of the focal length (longer is better). The most ideal seems to be an 85mm (so the 85/1.2 or the 85/1.8 ).

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Brenizer Method (Mosaic Stiches)
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