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Thread started 16 Sep 2009 (Wednesday) 14:46
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Monopod / Flash rig up and running. Question or 2 to follow

 
snyderman
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Sep 16, 2009 14:46 |  #1

First off, big thanks to Canonoob (Dave) and IODebbie who are currently using monopod/flash rigs and helped me put one together. Bottom line is that we're out of daylight by about 7:30pm (already) making even 2.8 lenses worthless for night football.

For those who are interested, but haven't seen a Monopod / OCF setup, here is Canonoob's pic, (hope this is proper credit!) and I'll post hardware requirements after the image:

IMAGE: http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t54/sick06cobalt/004-3.jpg

Went to local hardware store and bought (1) 2" x 2" angle brackett; (2) 1.5" hose clamps and (1) thumb screw. Total cost was $3.84 USD. I already had the hot shoe to flash cable so I'm using that and not the Cybersynch setup like Canonoob's pic shows. Had to stack 4 small washers to get the flash to fit snugly to the bracket and flash cable.

Put it together and tested it last night. The reach on my 430 EX II is going to be a bit less than a 580, but I shot to the furthest corner of my yard during the test and it easily illuminated the landscape plants and fence about 25 yards away.

Going to put the rig to work this Friday night and will probably post some shots Saturday or Sunday.

Questions prior to shooting Friday night are:

1) I realize the synch speed on my 50D and flash is 1/250. Am I going to be able to up that shutter speed using the High Speed Synch feature on the flash? If so, to what? What is the downside of increasing shutter speed?

2) Someone was kind enough to post some basic camera settings as a good 'starting point.' Pretty sure they were f/4.5; ISO 800 and 1/250 shutter speed. Anybody using something different and perhaps more effective than those stated?

Lastly, IODebbie's idea was to 'side-mount' the flash below the camera so it wasn't exactly inline with the lens. I chose this configuration because it reportedly reduces red-eye. We'll see Friday night.

Thanks for looking and any other advice you may have is appreciated.

dave

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canonnoob
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Sep 16, 2009 14:58 |  #2

just so you know and noone gets on to you about this... I approve of you using the photo in this case.... :D lol

as far as your questions are concerned... I was able to get 1/320th of a second without problems. dont use HSS on the flash.. it will decrease your flash efficency and range.

depending how on how good/bad the lighting is where you are at you will find you may have to go up and down on your ISO/aperture... but it all depends. Take a look at the exif of the photos I published.. you may find something good that you will like and give you an idea of the SS , ISO , and aperture.


David W.

  
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clarence
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Sep 16, 2009 15:16 |  #3

snyderman wrote in post #8656613 (external link)
Am I going to be able to up that shutter speed using the High Speed Synch feature on the flash? If so, to what? What is the downside of increasing shutter speed?

HSS is a longer series of pulses, less effective in reach, burns through your batteries faster, increases the time it takes to ready (recycle) for the next pop, and risks overheating your filament.

Plus HSS will give you more blur because you're not taking advantage of a quick burst of light to freeze the action.

You want your shutter speed to be long enough to capture some ambient light (same reason you still want to use a higher ISO and a faster aperture), but short enough to avoid light blur and ghosting. 1/250"-1/320" is about right.


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Sledhed
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Sep 16, 2009 18:17 |  #4

Wouldn't it be a whole lot easier to buy one of these?

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …55_Double_Ball_​Joint.html (external link)

It might be more expensive but it would be a lot easier to take on and off.


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snyderman
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Sep 16, 2009 20:36 |  #5

Thanks for the additional advice and tips guys. Really appreciate the input prior to working the game Friday night. Looking forward to shooting ambient in the 1st Q and strapping the camera to the monopod for the rest of the game.

dave


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Big ­ K
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Sep 16, 2009 21:38 |  #6

Sledhed wrote in post #8657704 (external link)
Wouldn't it be a whole lot easier to buy one of these?

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …55_Double_Ball_​Joint.html (external link)

It might be more expensive but it would be a lot easier to take on and off.

When I finally get to the point I am forced to strobe football I use something similar to this. I use a superclamp and a long extension stud then attach an umbrella/hotshoe to the end of the stud and position the flash as needed.

I fully agree, it is MUCH easier to put on and take off and gives you a lot of flexibility to adjust and reposition the flash. It also doubles as my rain umbrella holder. I will replace the umbrella/hotshoe with another superclamp and use it to hold the handle of my umbrella. Works like a charm unless the wind is blowing hard in which case I go sit in the car anyway.


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canonnoob
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Sep 16, 2009 23:20 |  #7

Sledhed wrote in post #8657704 (external link)
Wouldn't it be a whole lot easier to buy one of these?

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …55_Double_Ball_​Joint.html (external link)

It might be more expensive but it would be a lot easier to take on and off.

Im buying another mono so that one will be used at night and it will save me just a little money and time... and effort... well maybe not all of them.


David W.

  
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namasste
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Sep 16, 2009 23:29 |  #8

I use the simpler and cheaper plain old superclamp. I think I paid $29 at the local shop for it. I do also use a flex arm since I am an above the camera kinda guy (also a toilet paper over, not under if anyone wondered).


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jbergdoll
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Sep 17, 2009 03:20 as a reply to  @ snyderman's post |  #9
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Use a short flash duration to freeze motion.


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int2str
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Sep 17, 2009 03:26 |  #10

With a setup like this and a Canon 580 EX II hooked up to a 50D, can you still use high-speed burst on the camera?

I tried it briefly indoors and got 4 flashes on a 4 shot burst. Is that achievable outdoors under stadium lights?




  
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Sep 17, 2009 04:13 |  #11

namasste wrote in post #8659175 (external link)
I use the simpler and cheaper plain old superclamp. I think I paid $29 at the local shop for it. I do also use a flex arm since I am an above the camera kinda guy (also a toilet paper over, not under if anyone wondered).

Hey Scott -

I'm copying your rig. Ordered the Bogen HD flex arm and superclamp last night from BH....saw the pic on another thread. Should be less than 60 beans with shipping and conversion to loonies. ($1 Can is 94 cents US now - great rate!)

Gonna give it a try inside some of those dungeons masquerading as hockey rinks this winter.


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Sledhed
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Sep 17, 2009 13:26 |  #12

namasste wrote in post #8659175 (external link)
(also a toilet paper over, not under if anyone wondered).

thanks for that info Scott. :rolleyes:


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namasste
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Sep 17, 2009 13:43 |  #13

Sledhed wrote in post #8660427 (external link)
thanks for that info Scott. :rolleyes:

just wait until I start a "get to know Scott thread", then you're in trouble!

Darcy, I think you'll like that setup since it allows you to change orientation (camera orientation, lest there be awkward confusion :lol:) without messing with the flash or complicated brackets. I like it. I actually put up a few images from last night using this setup in another thread. Like any night flash setup, it'll have its own limitations but I can't imagine using something else at this point.


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snyderman
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Sep 17, 2009 14:28 |  #14

namasste wrote in post #8660535 (external link)
just wait until I start a "get to know Scott thread", then you're in trouble!

Darcy, I think you'll like that setup since it allows you to change orientation (camera orientation, lest there be awkward confusion :lol:) without messing with the flash or complicated brackets. I like it.

Another reason I went with the 'down-below flash' stratgy. The monopod has a ball head allowing the camera to rotate left (same side as flash) to portrait orientation without any cables crossing or pulling. Actually thought of that issue and mounted the bracket holding the flash on the left side as well.

That said, I shoot football game action in landscape mode and the warmup (closeup) shots of the kids vertical. I'll carry the camera for that stuff anyway then attach it to the monopod when the light runs out!

dave


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namasste
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Sep 17, 2009 14:53 |  #15

snyderman wrote in post #8660832 (external link)
Another reason I went with the 'down-below flash' stratgy. The monopod has a ball head allowing the camera to rotate left (same side as flash) to portrait orientation without any cables crossing or pulling. Actually thought of that issue and mounted the bracket holding the flash on the left side as well.

That said, I shoot football game action in landscape mode and the warmup (closeup) shots of the kids vertical. I'll carry the camera for that stuff anyway then attach it to the monopod when the light runs out!

dave

with my 70-200, I have actually clipped a flash to my belt and fired it with a trigger. This eliminates the need for a monopod and makes moving around much easier if you are int tight conditions on the sideline. Just another way to skin the cat I guess. With the 300, I need the monopod so I might as well connect my flash. Next game, I think I'll do one above and below and see what the results look like. Anyone ever do it that way?


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Monopod / Flash rig up and running. Question or 2 to follow
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