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Thread started 25 May 2005 (Wednesday) 16:20
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First wedding - lessons learned

 
tim
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Dec 12, 2006 14:00 |  #166

Renboy, if you search for "first wedding" in the wedding forum you'll get tens of threads of advice for people in a similar situation to you. I'd not use that lens, rent a 17-55 F2.8 IS ideally, or borrow a 24-70 if that's what you can get. Wide is good, but you can use the kit lens for tight situations. Regarding mode use whatever you're comfortable with, it makes no difference.


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tim
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Mar 20, 2007 07:05 |  #167

Few more thoughts on what i've learned this year so far:
- Get an efficient workflow going. Tonight I processed 700 RAW images to proofs - ie looked at them, chose 350 to show the customer, did basic color/exposure correction, and batched out to JPG. I also put them into my online ordering system using EOS Template, made a Proshow DVD, and put together a pack to deliver to the customer. It took 4-5 hours. That's not all I did either, I did mailing and admin.
- Mailing and admin can take up a lot of time. Tonight I prepared a couple of contracts for people who recently booked, and entered their details into my CRM system - my backup in case of a house fire or theft.
- TEMPLATES are great. I have templates for emails when people send me an inquiry, with variations for people who are booking from overseas, for people who want a budget package, and people who want a full service with album package. I also have word document templates for common things, like emailing copies of contracts, a letter I put with proof DVDs, and general inquiries. Oh, and templates for making my labels which I stick on the front of odd sized envelopes. My document template is fitted so when they're put into a window envelope the address shows, which removes the need for a label.
- The new ACR in CS3 beta is great. Very quick once you know how to use it. Presets in there are great. I have presets to make my RAW files sepia with a vignette, B&W with vignette, extra contrast/saturation, to bring out backlit images, and probably others.

That's all for now, it's midnight, i've worked all day at my day job, 5 hours at photography, and i'm stuffed!


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Kiddo
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Mar 20, 2007 08:51 |  #168

Those are some really great tips!! TFS!!


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http://tanyaeverettpho​tography.blogspot.com/ (external link)

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jessiper
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Mar 20, 2007 12:57 |  #169

tim wrote in post #2900282 (external link)
Few more thoughts on what i've learned this year so far:
- Get an efficient workflow going. Tonight I processed 700 RAW images to proofs - ie looked at them, chose 350 to show the customer, did basic color/exposure correction, and batched out to JPG. I also put them into my online ordering system using EOS Template, made a Proshow DVD, and put together a pack to deliver to the customer. It took 4-5 hours. That's not all I did either, I did mailing and admin.
- Mailing and admin can take up a lot of time. Tonight I prepared a couple of contracts for people who recently booked, and entered their details into my CRM system - my backup in case of a house fire or theft.
- TEMPLATES are great. I have templates for emails when people send me an inquiry, with variations for people who are booking from overseas, for people who want a budget package, and people who want a full service with album package. I also have word document templates for common things, like emailing copies of contracts, a letter I put with proof DVDs, and general inquiries. Oh, and templates for making my labels which I stick on the front of odd sized envelopes. My document template is fitted so when they're put into a window envelope the address shows, which removes the need for a label.
- The new ACR in CS3 beta is great. Very quick once you know how to use it. Presets in there are great. I have presets to make my RAW files sepia with a vignette, B&W with vignette, extra contrast/saturation, to bring out backlit images, and probably others.

That's all for now, it's midnight, i've worked all day at my day job, 5 hours at photography, and i'm stuffed!

Thanks, Tim! Would you mind sharing your presets? I know they're for CS3, but I plan to update. Thanks again!


*Gear: 5D Mark II, 2 5D's, 30D, 85mm 1.8, 50mm 1.4, 24mmL 1.4, 45mm TS-E, 16-35mmL 2.8 II, 70-200L 2.8 IS, 100mm 2.8 macro, 15mm 2.8 fisheye, 580EXII, 580EX, 430EX, AB 800, AB Ring flash, lots of PW's, stands, umbrellas, etc.
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tim
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Mar 20, 2007 19:13 |  #170

jessiper wrote in post #2901727 (external link)
Thanks, Tim! Would you mind sharing your presets? I know they're for CS3, but I plan to update. Thanks again!

Remind me in a month, bit busy right now.


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jessiper
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Mar 20, 2007 20:16 |  #171

tim wrote in post #2903572 (external link)
Remind me in a month, bit busy right now.

Thanks!


*Gear: 5D Mark II, 2 5D's, 30D, 85mm 1.8, 50mm 1.4, 24mmL 1.4, 45mm TS-E, 16-35mmL 2.8 II, 70-200L 2.8 IS, 100mm 2.8 macro, 15mm 2.8 fisheye, 580EXII, 580EX, 430EX, AB 800, AB Ring flash, lots of PW's, stands, umbrellas, etc.
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WhatEyeSee
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Mar 20, 2007 23:24 |  #172

Thanks for the updated info Tim.

I have some questions - when you did your basic adjustments w/ your pics did you do them in batches or individual? Was that the same w/ the JPG?

When you make your proofs do you crop or do you show the full frame? If you crop for the proofs what size?

Thanks in advance for your time.


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tim
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Mar 21, 2007 01:07 |  #173

[QUOTE=WhatEyeSee;2904​870]I have some questions - when you did your basic adjustments w/ your pics did you do them in batches or individual? Was that the same w/ the JPG?

I do them in batches, then if any look like they need individual attention they get it. What JPG? Only time I deal with JPG is near the end of my workflow, batching them out for my proofing system.

WhatEyeSee wrote in post #2904870 (external link)
When you make your proofs do you crop or do you show the full frame? If you crop for the proofs what size?

I crop maybe 1-2% of the images. Or do you mean what resolution do I generate them out to?


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bcap
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Mar 21, 2007 10:55 |  #174

Hello all,

I would like to say, first of all, Tim - great thread! I think the idea behind this thread is fantastic. Great way for first timers to learn their lesson before learning the hard way! Keep the tips coming.

Second of all - I would really like to see this thread (or a simplified version - a.k.a. what I am about to post) made a Sticky as I would hate to see the valuable information here lost in the mess of other "What settings do I use" threads.

Third of all - I hope I am not stepping on anyone's toes here, but, I have gone through all the pages of this thread and have compiled, simplified and organized all the "tips" into one document. I have posted this below. Please feel free to add to it and after a few more pages, I will re-compile and re-post.

Thanks again Tim and all who have given their valuable input!

Summary of Tips:

Planning
o Wedding days are frantic and very hectic. Make sure you are properly organized before you arrive at the Wedding. Once you relax, Wedding photography can be quite fun.
o Pack plenty of drinks (i.e. water) and easy-to-eat food (i.e. power bar, granola bar) in your camera bag. Assume there won't be any other food around on the day.
o Wear comfortable shoes.
o Dress like a guest, or at least tidily.
o Speak with the B&G before the Wedding and ensure you have a list of all the shots they want. The list should be split into pre-ceremony, ceremony, register signing, exit, reception and candid shots. Give them this list and make sure the Best Man and Maid of Honor sees the list and know what shots will be taken.
o Ensure that you have a list of required people to be in each shot (i.e. formal shots)
o The bride's mother/father can be a formidable allies

General Shooting
o Review the histogram regularly, even if you think you got the shot.
o What looks in focus on the camera’s LCD screen can look terrible on a big screen. If you're playing with depth of field, you can't judge the outcome from the camera’s LCD. Bracket the apertures.
o Be careful to get horizons level.
o Pay close attention to the basics (i.e. Lens Hood is on tightly).
o Using the sun as a backlight is good. If you are doing this, try and shoot diagonally so it doesn't strike your lens and cause flare. In strong sunlight have someone shade your lens so the sun doesn't strike it directly, even with a hood the flare can detract from a photo.
o When taking shots of objects (i.e. dress hanging from rail, cake shots) make sure your camera is perfectly square with the background. Diagonal lines aren't good for this type of shot.
o Beware of reflective backgrounds. If you get one (i.e. a curved varnished wood behind the alter) throw your flash away, or put the lights up high (i.e. 13 feet or more).

Posing
o Be nice, friendly, flexible and professional. People skills are important – what good is a great shot of a poor subject?
o Get to know the best person to organize the appropriate people for the formal photos - in advance. Make them feel important and involved
o Posing people well is hard. Read books before hand, look at other peoples pictures, and practice.
o Take a minimum of 3 pictures of each posed shot
o Take a minimum of 5 shots of each group pose
o Check the histogram after each shot.
o Don't cut off hands, feet, or anything else in formals.
o Pay attention to making sure the subjects have nice smiles and to clothing. All jackets should be done up, shouldn't have excessive wrinkles, should hang nicely, collars in the right place, make sure there's nothing poking out the bottom of the jacket. Similar for hair.
o Make sure people are properly centered if a background warrants it (i.e. in an arch).
o Studio lights are great for formals, if you have time to set them up and tear them down. Two lights are usually ideal.

Settings
o Shoot RAW. The pace on a wedding day can be frantic; you might not have time to get everything perfect.
o Fill flash should be used outdoors with a hot-shoe flash (i.e. 580ex) with a soft box or diffuser, mounted on a bracket at FEC around -1 1/3.
o There's often no time for monopods or tripods except during formal shots, use IS lenses or high ISO.
o Use a custom white balance. This will cut a lot of time off post processing.
o Use a flash at the reception if it's dark. ISO 1600 is acceptable if you are able to get proper exposure.
o Flash brackets are essential, diffusers are slightly less so.
o Know when to use which type of metering. Typically, partial metering is used approximately 60% of the time, evaluative is used when the dynamic range isn't too high, and very occasionally centre weighted is used.

Post Processing
o Don't underestimate how long post processing will take. Better to take one good photo in which everything is near-perfect in than to take five quick ones that need 15 minutes post processing.
o Develop an efficient workflow going.
o Mailing and administration work can take up a lot of time – develop an efficient workflow for this as well.
o Templates are great for all aspects of post processing, whether it be for administration or presets for proof quality photos. Have templates for replying to inquiries, with variations for people who are booking from overseas. Have templates for information for people who want a budget package, and people who want a full service with album package. Have templates for common things such as contracts, letters to accompany proof DVDs

Equipment
o Have the biggest camera at the wedding.
o If you're using a diffuser, bring twice as many batteries as you think you'll need, or a high capacity battery pack.
o Ideal minimum photography equipment:
- 2 x Canon EOS 30D
- 17-55 F2.8 IS - Ideal range on cropped sensor
- 70-200 F2.8 IS - Great for when you have to stay back a bit in churches, ceremonies, and receptions
- 50mm F1.4 or Sigma 30mm F1.4 - Great for low light shots, first dance and prep photos
- 10GB solid state compact flash
- Flash bracket
- 2 x 580ex (or similar – i.e. 550ex)
- Adequate amount of camera batteries
- Adequate amount of NiMH AA batteries - 16-24 of them
- 2 x Studio Lights with Stands and Umbrellas - optional

Suggested Books
o The Best of Wedding Photojournalism: Techniques and Images from the Pros, by Bill Hurter.
o Digital Wedding Photography by Paul Gero.


Bryan
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tlc
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Mar 21, 2007 11:39 |  #175

[QUOTE=tim;1140618]Her​e are my recommended books - i'll add to this list some time:
The Best of Wedding Photojournalism: Techniques and Images from the Pros (external link).

just ordered! i also got the weddings and portraits book from annabel williams, she ahs some great ideas and tips as well.


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tim
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Mar 21, 2007 15:11 |  #176

bcap - i've added a link to this thread from the sticky :) Thanks for sharing :)


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bcap
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Mar 21, 2007 15:15 |  #177

Great!

Tim, I think you should add a pdf document to your "recommended books" called "Digital Wedding Photography: How not to mess it up by Tim" LOL


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tim
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Mar 31, 2007 09:42 |  #178

Some things i've learned recently:
- What looks in focus on a tiny screen can look terrible on a big screen. If you're playing with depth of field you can't judge it from your little lcd. Bracket you apertures. *** THIS IS IMPORTANT ***
- If you don't have a flash bracket fitted use landscape and crop. Seriously. I haven't used a bracket in probably a year.
- Sometimes shots that are pretty average in color can look great as a high contrast B&W.
- Driving with one hand, eating with one hand, and taking a photo of the wedding car that's in front of you at the same time is a bad idea.
- Regular, repetitive backgrounds are effective even if they're brightly colored, and sometimes moreso if they're brightly colored. I suspect the reason is because it's regular and simple the focus is put onto the people, rather than the cluttered background. Brick walls, wooden sheds, and corrugated iron are all great.
- Pay attention to clothes. All jackets should be done up, shouldn't have excessive wrinkles, should hang nicely, collars in the right place, make sure there's nothing poking out the bottom of the jacket. Similar for hair.
- Using the sun as a backlight is good, try and shoot diagonally so it doesn't strike your lens and cause flare. In strong sunlight have someone shade your lens so the sun doesn't strike it directly, even with a hood the flare can detract from a photo.
- Take a checklist of essential shots for each section of the wedding until you're comfortable. When you're comfortable take a list of shots you usually forget.
- Make sure shoulders are NEVER parallel with the camera. Ever. Well, maybe occasionally.
- Make sure people are properly centered if a background warrants it. eg in an arch, or a gazebo.
- Rings reflect like mirrors, remove any bright light sources (eg windows), and if possible take ring shots in a dimly lit room. Alternately try and get something interesting as the reflection, maybe flowers, perhaps lit by a slaved flash or natural light.
- When taking shots of objects (eg dress hanging from rail, cake shots, everything really) make sure your camera is perfectly square with the background. Diagonal lines aren't good for this type of shot.
- When using strobes for formals, beware of lens flare. You can't see it on the little LCD most of the time, unless perhaps you zoom in.
- Use the spirit level on your tripod to make sure you don't need to straighten images in photoshop. It can take bloody ages if you have a heap of formals. I'm sure my left leg's shorter than my right leg...
- Beware of reflective backgrounds. If you get one (eg I had curved varnished wood behind an alter) throw your flash away, or put the lights up really really high (like 13 feet or more).
- Studio lights are GREAT for formals, if you have time to set them up and tear them down. Two lights is great. I have two AB800s (320WS), and i'd have liked more power if I could get it.
- If you use a backlight, a point source (eg the sun or a strobe) seems to work better than a large light source (eg overcast clouds).
- Again, wear comfortable shoes, take plenty to eat and drink, and relax! Once you get over the panic stage weddings are great fun!

(take a deep breath and continue reading)

- When shooting group photos outside in full sunlight try and put people in the shade if possible, and avoid speckled light. People shouldn't be facing into the sun or they'll squint. Meter for the sky, fill with flash (EC + 2 is often necessary). A CP-E3 or similar battery pack is really necessary to make this possible, since the flash is firing near full power, a 7 second recharge isn't really acceptable - 2 seconds is fine.
- Battery packs are great, love 'em. For the first year I owned one I rarely used it, lately i've had it in my pocket for most of the day. Is that a battery pack in your pocket or are you just pleased to see me...
- Regularly check your lens hood is on straight (doh!)
- Slopes are bad, unless you're skiing. Flat areas are best.
- Uncle Tom makes a great assistant, and appreciates if you help him get a few shots.
- I generally don't care about legs or bodies, emotions are what we want to capture, they happen way up top. Just remember to get a full length of the bride.
- You can't color correct until you get the exposure right. Exposure is always the first slider to play with.
- Shouting "smile you bas****" at the groom doesn't help when you're sitting at home at your PC.
- Luck is very important in wedding photographer. I find the more experience I have the luckier I get.
- Occasionally you meet someone at a wedding who's as crazy as a loon. Don't let them get to you. NB I was fine, nod and smile, the wedding coordinator almost cried.
- Sometimes the photographer is crazy. Bock bock.


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jeannemarie
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Jun 03, 2007 12:32 |  #179

Tim, great advise! Still soooooo relevant. I'll check out the book you reccommend.




  
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Duncaji
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Jun 03, 2007 12:58 |  #180

Having just shot my first wedding, I've a few learning I picked up on soon as I reviewed them.

1. Always be aware of backgrounds (less clutter the better)/
2. Use a reflector for the close in couple shots, and fill flash if shooting in shadow areas.
3. Keep control of crowd, and dont let other guests win the attention of your subjects. Be assertive and use commands to keep attention. I use 123 (take snap). I even waved to keep eveyones attention on my camera.
4. I used my tripod for 80% of the shots, and use a ball head with handle that means you can move it accurately and quickly.


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