Volleyball Strobe Assistance

I've recently started shooting the local high school volleyball team using a strobe and while I like the direction the IQ of the pictures are taking, there's still some shadowing I'd like to eliminate. Hopefully some of you have some tips.

Right now I'm using one 350 WS strobe because I can only afford one at this time -- I've been using it at full power with the reflector base attached.

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Tom,

You do not want to lower the power of the strobe. More is better. Strobes are effective when you can get close to 3 stops over ambient light levels. It appears that you are shooting your one strobe direct, ie not bounced off the ceiling or wall. That will cause shadows. Not being 3 stops (or close) above ambient will also result in 'ghosting.' Unfortunately, it will probably take a second strobe to get past those problems.

If you do get a second strobe, then you will have the choice of flashing directly toward the players or bouncing off the ceiling. Direct flash tends to have slight shadows but gives a stronger light hitting the players. Bounced gives a soft light without shadows but it takes more lighting power. My preference is bounced light but both are used successfully and it is just personal preference.

Here are some recent volleyball shots using multiple strobes bounced off the ceiling.

Thanks for the info and for sharing your shots too Phil - very nice. I do have a 580 EX II Speedlite, think I could use that as a second strobe, or would it have to be something with a little more power?

Tom

Tom, what strobe are you using?

Tom you need more than one strobe to even out your lighting.
I'm waiting to hear where Ziv placed his bounced strobes for his shots he posted. He really hit the nail on the head with that placement.

DDCSD wrote in post #8718724
Tom, what strobe are you using?

It's a Promaster Q300 (300 WS). It's a basic one I bought from a local camera store and from what I understand it's made by Bogen. I know there are better ones, but it does serve my purposes well, but now that I'll be needing another one, I may actually research it a little - lol!

Tom

tjketa wrote in post #8718970
It's a Promaster Q300 (300 WS). It's a basic one I bought from a local camera store and from what I understand it's made by Bogen. I know there are better ones, but it does serve my purposes well, but now that I'll be needing another one, I may actually research it a little - lol!

Tom

I think your problem is the strobe. Is it this one?

http://www.promaster.c​om …products.asp?pr​oduct=1698

I can't find any good specs on it, but assuming that the flash duration stated (1/1500-1/800s) is the t.5 duration the flash might not be quick enough to effectively stop motion. It sounds fast enough, but the t.5 is just how fast the strobe's peak flash is. The flash actually emits light for longer than that, just at a lower intensity. That "other" light that the strobe emits is what causes your ghosting.

Have a look at the Alien Bees B800. It has a very fast duration at full power. It's really the most economical choice for lighting up a gym. There really isn't anything cheaper that's going to do the job.

http://www.alienbees.c​om/b800.html

Thanks for the info Derek - I suspected the strobe being an issue and yes I've been looking at the ABs.

Tom

Zivnuska wrote in post #8716712
Here are some recent volleyball shots using multiple strobes bounced off the ceiling.

Oooh, that's some nice lighting. Well done!

Is that with all four of your AB800's?

Thanks again for all of the great feedback. I went out and bought a simlar strobe to what I currently had, pointed them both to the ceiling tonight and this is what I got:

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Lighting looks great! The first shot looks pretty out of focus though.

Thanks Derek, I realized that after I posted it! I just grabbed a couple without truly paying attention to the focus.

Tom

I would also like to know where Phil Ziv placed his strobes in relation to the volleyball court. I'm thinking about picking up a pair of Bees, but I would like to know the placement as well.

bnorm27 wrote in post #8726362
I would also like to know where Phil Ziv placed his strobes in relation to the volleyball court. I'm thinking about picking up a pair of Bees, but I would like to know the placement as well.

And I'm assuming the standard 7" reflector when bouncing? No benefit of a narrower beam with the 11" reflector, right?

I need to search for tips on flash zoom settings when bouncing with remote speedlites too... wide or 105mm?

clarence wrote in post #8727525
And I'm assuming the standard 7" reflector when bouncing? No benefit of a narrower beam with the 11" reflector, right?

I need to search for tips on flash zoom settings when bouncing with remote speedlites too... wide or 105mm?

I personally use the 11" reflectors when bouncing. It concentrates the light better on the ceiling, giving me more light on the floor. It especially helps when you have a high ceiling or can't get the lights up very high.