Focus and Recompose.... or Choose a Focus Point?

imahawki wrote in post #8984799
What's the fastest way to do this. I know you can push the focus point button in the upper right and then hit the joystick. Is there a way to eliminate the first step?

There's a custom function that makes the joystick the full-time AF point control (meaning you don't need to push the button first)...

I have it set on mine, but the exact setting escapes me at the moment....

OK....

Try setting C.Fn III (3) to '1'

I use the AF point closest to my intended point of focus to minimize focus errors due to recomposition. I've just always done it that way since I started using AF cameras.

For me - Choose a focus point.
Sometimes I will even change change points if need be while taking a sequence or changing orientation of camera from horizontal to vertical or vice versa.

SOK wrote in post #8984976
There's a custom function that makes the joystick the full-time AF point control (meaning you don't need to push the button first)...

I have it set on mine, but the exact setting escapes me at the moment....

Thanks! and yes, that's the right one.

I've been looking into this statement which Ben said about the centre focal point being stronger than the peripheral points. My conclusion is that he is correct, the central focus point certainly does focus alot quicker and more accuratly in low light. Outside in normal day light however, I also find the peripheral focal points are sufficiently fast and accurate and still beleive that in in daylight, this is the way to go.

puzzle wrote in post #9208611
I've been looking into this statement which Ben said about the centre focal point being stronger than the peripheral points. My conclusion is that he is correct, the central focus point certainly does focus alot quicker and more accuratly in low light. Outside in normal day light however, I also find the peripheral focal points are sufficiently fast and accurate and still beleive that in in daylight, this is the way to go.

If you turn the camera so that the perpheral point is perpendicular to a linear contrast (such as a collar or necktie), you will find that it's useable even in quite dim light. Using the same techniques I used with split-image rangefinders in my Canon F-1 cameras works with the peripheral focus points just as well.