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Thread started 06 Oct 2009 (Tuesday) 08:06
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Macro Focusing Rail Really Needed?

 
Cyclop
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Oct 06, 2009 08:06 |  #1

Hello all. I know that a focusing rail is utilized for "fine" control focusing adjustments. My question is, is it really a necessity to purchase this additional equipment item to enhance precise "still" macro shots or can I get by without it? Thank you :)


Canon 50D w/grip, Canon 7D, Mark II w/grip, Tokina UWA 11-16 2.8, Canon 17-55 2.8 IS, Canon 70-200 2.8 L IS, Canon 300 4 L IS, Canon 400 5.6 L, Canon 100 "macro" 2.8, Canon 60 "macro" 2.8, Canon Extender 1.4xII, Gitzo 3531S tripod w/Markins M20 ballhead, Gitzo GT2531EX tripod, Bogen-Manfrotto 681B monopod w/3232 head.

  
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LordV
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Oct 06, 2009 10:13 |  #2

Can only say I've only used my one once or twice but I rarely use a tripod anyway.
Brian v.


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katodog
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Oct 06, 2009 10:32 |  #3

I'm with LordV. Although I don't get anywhere near as good of shots as he does. I have a macro rail, and to be honest it spends most of its time in a case. I use it, but not enough to say it's really a necessary piece of equipment. If you do a ton of stills, and are always on a tripod, then yes, it's a vital piece of equipment. It allows you to get extremely accurate focus.

But, it doesn't do you any good if all you do is shoot insects and such outside. You'd be better off with a really exceptional macro lens and a lot of practice.


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hlaricca
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Oct 06, 2009 10:42 |  #4

I agree with Brian and katodog, a macro focussing rail can become an unused gadget, especially if you are planning on shooting insects. A focussing rail does not do much for moving subjects.

However, if you are planning on doing product shoots and capturing other inanimate objects at >= 1:1 using a tripod, a macro focussing rail will help since moving a tripod around often does not work too well.

For what it's worth, when I started playing around with my extension tubes, I was using a tripod and wished I had a focussing rail. A few months after that, I did not want one anymore... Also, I think an external flash coupled with a bracket will be a better investment.


7D | 50 f/1.8 II | 17-40 f/4L | 70-200 f/4L | 100 f/2.8 Macro | Sigma 180 f/3.5 Macro | Kenko Extension Tubes | Kenko 1.4x Teleplus Pro 300 DG
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Warl0rd
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Oct 06, 2009 17:23 |  #5

hlaricca wrote in post #8771126 (external link)
Also, I think an external flash coupled with a bracket will be a better investment.

I second that


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katodog
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Oct 06, 2009 17:42 |  #6

I third that. Except instead of using a flash I bought two 35-LED lights and a bracket. The lights are a lot easier to use, and I don't have to worry about using my wireless triggers or cables to run flash units. The good thing is that if I want to, I can, since I have triggers and two flash units. But, the lights seemed like a better idea at the time.

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LordV
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Oct 07, 2009 02:21 |  #7

Katodog- interesting rig - is the ring fixing thing on the lens hood part of the LED light setup or bought separately ?
Brian v.


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Cyclop
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Oct 07, 2009 03:48 |  #8

Thank you all for your valued input. I believe that I will refrain from purchasing a rail system.


Canon 50D w/grip, Canon 7D, Mark II w/grip, Tokina UWA 11-16 2.8, Canon 17-55 2.8 IS, Canon 70-200 2.8 L IS, Canon 300 4 L IS, Canon 400 5.6 L, Canon 100 "macro" 2.8, Canon 60 "macro" 2.8, Canon Extender 1.4xII, Gitzo 3531S tripod w/Markins M20 ballhead, Gitzo GT2531EX tripod, Bogen-Manfrotto 681B monopod w/3232 head.

  
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katodog
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Oct 07, 2009 07:49 |  #9

The lights were separate from the bracket. Bought the two lights individually, and the bracket, all from the same seller on eBay. The bracket isn't the greatest build in the world, but it's more than good enough. You just have to make sure the knobs are tight or it'll tip when you hold the camera at an angle.


Flash Bracket (external link)

LED Light (external link)

Looks like they raised their prices about $8 since the time I bought them. But, it's an alternative to think about. Sure beats paying top dollar for flash units and works just as good.


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hlaricca
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Oct 07, 2009 08:41 |  #10

Interesting katodog. Can you move the two halves of the circular brackets so that the two lights are more at an angle. Or, do you need to have mini ball heads to orient the lights?


7D | 50 f/1.8 II | 17-40 f/4L | 70-200 f/4L | 100 f/2.8 Macro | Sigma 180 f/3.5 Macro | Kenko Extension Tubes | Kenko 1.4x Teleplus Pro 300 DG
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hlaricca
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Oct 07, 2009 08:43 |  #11

Just looked at the ebay listing and got my answer Katodog :) Really interesting...


7D | 50 f/1.8 II | 17-40 f/4L | 70-200 f/4L | 100 f/2.8 Macro | Sigma 180 f/3.5 Macro | Kenko Extension Tubes | Kenko 1.4x Teleplus Pro 300 DG
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katodog
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Oct 07, 2009 09:26 |  #12

Yes, you can angle the lights in. If you don't have a hood, and you have the lights far enough forward, you can aim them almost directly at each other. The bracket is also slotted, so you can move the lights over and under the lens, and anywhere in between. Plus, you can also pivot the light on the bracket to angle the light in different directions from the subject, to create different light effects or to bounce or reflect the light.


The bracket is actually two curved brackets put together, so you can even use just one curve if need be. It's really versatile, but like I said you have to make sure the knobs are tight. I'm still working out solutions for this. I think a simple trip to the hardware store for better knobs would be the best solution. I'm still going through what I have in the garage to see what works.


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Warl0rd
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Oct 07, 2009 15:27 as a reply to  @ katodog's post |  #13

i wonder if the continuous light is enough to get my shutter speed up to 1/200 and also how the bugs will react to light vs occasional flashes, mainly when your approaching them...

i shoot dailly, but my ambient light is never enough, i always need the flash for shutter speed.

and a final question, does everything weight more then a flash?


Paulo
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Canon 450D (XSi) + Grip | Canon 80D | EF-S 10-22 | EF 24-105 L IS | EF 100mm Macro | MP-E 65mm 1-5X | EF-S 18-55 IS STM | EF-S 55-250 IS | Takumar 55mm 1.8 | MT-24EX | Metz 48-AF1 | YN460 II | Kenko DG Auto ET | Kata 3N1-20 DL | Lowepro SlingShot 100 AW | Mitsai JDC195 | Manfrotto 190XPROB + 484RC2

  
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katodog
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Oct 07, 2009 15:43 |  #14

It depends on the environment. The lights are pretty bright, and will help incredibly in shadow and low light. But, some of my test shots were on bees on white flowers in almost direct sunlight, and the lights didn't do much except for add fill light and brighten the shot a little bit. They helped to gain better detail, but they didn't give that much brighter of a scene on the whole.

In low light or shadow they're perfect. Heck, they throw enough light that you could shoot in total darkness. That's the real joy of the LED lights; you can shoot with no light and get perfect shots.


As for weight, I'd say the whole setup doesn't weigh more than twice the weight of a standard flash unit. But, you have to figure on having a flash bracket regardless of what type of light you use, because the bracket is going to allow you to get the flash by the subject, and allow you to direct the flash better.


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Warl0rd
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Oct 07, 2009 17:09 |  #15

yeah i have the Hakuba LH1 (external link), but the flash + bracket + diffuser + 100mm macro + kenko tubes are already too heavy to handhold after a while. I even remove the grip from the camera to make it more light :p

if the weight is >= oh well... pros: you can shoot in the shadow/dark and have a brighter viewfinder, cons: flash always fills in whatever light is needed, this doesn't.

lets say, can you shoot 1/200 f/16 ISO 400 at 2:1 (or at least 1:1 ) with ambient home light with those lights?


Paulo
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Canon 450D (XSi) + Grip | Canon 80D | EF-S 10-22 | EF 24-105 L IS | EF 100mm Macro | MP-E 65mm 1-5X | EF-S 18-55 IS STM | EF-S 55-250 IS | Takumar 55mm 1.8 | MT-24EX | Metz 48-AF1 | YN460 II | Kenko DG Auto ET | Kata 3N1-20 DL | Lowepro SlingShot 100 AW | Mitsai JDC195 | Manfrotto 190XPROB + 484RC2

  
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Macro Focusing Rail Really Needed?
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