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Thread started 14 Oct 2009 (Wednesday) 10:45
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Lightroom - Pictures don't "Snap"

 
wdwpsu
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Oct 14, 2009 10:45 |  #1

I'm having some issues with Lightroom 2.5(and preceeding versions). I edit a photo, and the histogram is definitely on the left side of things, but it looks great on my monitor.

On some older monitors, it's almost too dark.

So, I increase the exposure, pump up the flood lights and make the histogram pretty center in the photo. The picture looks too light to me at this point and more importantly lacks the contrast that I saw when it was darker.

So, probably, I need to calibrate my monitor (Spyder3 on the way). But, other pictures I see on here and the web from others look great. Why do my "properly exposed" photos like Bleh? Or am I improperly fixing the darkness factor?

I can post some examples to show what I mean.


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tonylong
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Oct 14, 2009 11:21 |  #2

Calibrating your monitor will help a lot, with an emphasis on correcting the over-brightness that is common on most LCD monitors out of the box.

In lightroom, contrast is something you want to play with. There are several tools that address contrast -- the Contrast slider is, of course one of them, but there is also the Blacks slider, the Clarity slider and the Tone Curve adjustments that all have an effect. Sometimes the Vibrancy slider (selective saturation) can help as well. I rarely use the overall Saturation slider but I do play with Vibrancy and the channel sliders in the HSL panel.

When you shoot a jpeg, the camera applies global Contrast, Saturation, Sharpness, White Balance and Hue, according to your settings/Picture Style. As a result, a jpeg can look "better" out of the camera than a Raw shot displayed with Lightroom defaults. If you understand that and address those things in Lightroom, you can improve the Raw image beyond the in-camera jpeg.

People have been getting mileage from using the Camera Calibration presets as well, to get an overall "starting point" for a particular camera, but the specifics of contrast, etc. are things for you to get a handle on. Once you get familiar with those tools, the process can go quickly -- you can apply settings on one image to a batch of images, you can create your own presets to quickly apply or as your default settings to apply when importing, etc.

And remember, processing your photos is a creative process, not the "cookie cutter" process that you expect from an out-of-camera jpeg, so what looks great today could look even better with a little more work, or could go in a whole new direction -- that's the kind of thing LR excels at.


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wdwpsu
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Oct 14, 2009 12:36 |  #3

Thank you for that followup Tony.. It helps a lot.

Just a couple followup questions. With the Camera Calibration presets, are they a picture to picture basis or overall in general? It's tricky because I shoot with two (Sometimes 3) unique bodies all of which have different calibration settings... (Including the 7D with one camera calibration..."Beta")

I have also found with the blacks slider, that generally if I go above 5, I'm underexposing portions of the photo, and when I go to 3 or below, that's where I get a really flat look to the image.


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basroil
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Oct 14, 2009 12:39 |  #4

wdwpsu wrote in post #8821074 (external link)
Thank you for that followup Tony.. It helps a lot.

Just a couple followup questions. With the Camera Calibration presets, are they a picture to picture basis or overall in general? It's tricky because I shoot with two (Sometimes 3) unique bodies all of which have different calibration settings... (Including the 7D with one camera calibration..."Beta")

I have also found with the blacks slider, that generally if I go above 5, I'm underexposing portions of the photo, and when I go to 3 or below, that's where I get a really flat look to the image.

camera calibration (camera profile) is based on the serial number. the garbage at the bottom of the develop is by photo unless you change the preset


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tonylong
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Oct 14, 2009 12:53 |  #5

wdwpsu wrote in post #8821074 (external link)
I have also found with the blacks slider, that generally if I go above 5, I'm underexposing portions of the photo, and when I go to 3 or below, that's where I get a really flat look to the image.

Blacks is just one of the tools. I use it sparingly if at all, although I tend to keep it at the default of 5. But sometimes, especially with overly bright photos, it can add a bit of pop to emphacize shadows. It's really a picture-by-picture thing, whatever pleases you the most.

But, get that monitor calibrated so you won't see your pictures too dark on other monitors -- that'll give you a good starting point. You need to see things properly on your own monitor.


Tony
Two Canon cameras (5DC, 30D), three Canon lenses (24-105, 100-400, 100mm macro)
Tony Long Photos on PBase (external link)
Wildlife project pics here (external link), Biking Photog shoots here (external link), "Suburbia" project here (external link)! Mount St. Helens, Mount Hood pics here (external link)

  
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poloman
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Oct 14, 2009 14:10 |  #6

Calibration is step one.


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PixelMagic
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Oct 14, 2009 14:13 |  #7

Sounds like "user error" to me.

George Jardine's website is no longer actively updated but he has some of the best Lightroom tutorials around. Until recently Jardine was the Lightroom Evangelist for Adobe. I strongly recommend you watch these two podcasts on using the Develop Module:

http://www.mulita.com/​blog/?p=28 (external link)
http://www.mulita.com/​blog/?p=30 (external link)

wdwpsu wrote in post #8820362 (external link)
I'm having some issues with Lightroom 2.5(and preceeding versions). I edit a photo, and the histogram is definitely on the left side of things, but it looks great on my monitor.

On some older monitors, it's almost too dark.

So, I increase the exposure, pump up the flood lights and make the histogram pretty center in the photo. The picture looks too light to me at this point and more importantly lacks the contrast that I saw when it was darker.

So, probably, I need to calibrate my monitor (Spyder3 on the way). But, other pictures I see on here and the web from others look great. Why do my "properly exposed" photos like Bleh? Or am I improperly fixing the darkness factor?

I can post some examples to show what I mean.


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wdwpsu
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Oct 14, 2009 14:34 |  #8

PixelMagic wrote in post #8821718 (external link)
Sounds like "user error" to me.

George Jardine's website is no longer actively updated but he has some of the best Lightroom tutorials around. Until recently Jardine was the Lightroom Evangelist for Adobe. I strongly recommend you watch these two podcasts on using the Develop Module:

http://www.mulita.com/​blog/?p=28 (external link)
http://www.mulita.com/​blog/?p=30 (external link)

Thanks. I'll check these out. I read Kelby's book and watched Matt Kloskowski's training videos on Lightroom.

I really think Calibration is my #1 goal before I judge anything else I do.

Another aspect that I trip on is reading too much into the histogram. It tells the exposure of the overall picture, and if the subject is brighter than the background, I don't want to "push" the subject just to get the background "Better".


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tonylong
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Oct 14, 2009 14:45 |  #9

Have you checked out our RAW Conversion Thread? All kinds of things are possible!


Tony
Two Canon cameras (5DC, 30D), three Canon lenses (24-105, 100-400, 100mm macro)
Tony Long Photos on PBase (external link)
Wildlife project pics here (external link), Biking Photog shoots here (external link), "Suburbia" project here (external link)! Mount St. Helens, Mount Hood pics here (external link)

  
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Lightroom - Pictures don't "Snap"
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