Welding Glass (£1/$1 ND Filter) Exposures

I'm gonna try one out today. For the Canadian folks, Canadian Tire has a 10 shade lens for 8.99$

Max Powers wrote in post #15807099
I'm gonna try one out today. For the Canadian folks, Canadian Tire has a 10 shade lens for 8.99$

Cheaper at Princess Auto. $4 I think. Locally they sell shades 7 through 12.

Just a side note (I will be doing more testing as soon as the weather gets a bit better) when out shooting with my #12 shade, I was getting close to 12-14 stops with it. So it gets to be quite a long wait

AbPho wrote in post #15807626
Cheaper at Princess Auto. $4 I think. Locally they sell shades 7 through 12.

Ahh. Makes sense. It's Princess Auto.

Oh well, I got the 10 shade from CT and it seems to be working fine. It's impossible to get the "look" out of the photos though. The welding glass look.

HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Redirected to error image by FLICKR

Max Powers wrote in post #15808356
Ahh. Makes sense. It's Princess Auto.

Oh well, I got the 10 shade from CT and it seems to be working fine. It's impossible to get the "look" out of the photos though. The welding glass look.

Did you use DPP, or the coffee filter trick to correct the white balance?

How are you mounting yours? I never got any decent results. Did you tape up the sides?

AbPho wrote in post #15808732
Did you use DPP, or the coffee filter trick to correct the white balance?

How are you mounting yours? I never got any decent results. Did you tape up the sides?

I didn't bother with the coffee filter. Just fixed it as best I could in lightroom.

Mounted mine with the petal hood on backwards and some rubber bands. I don't appear to be having any light leak issues. I mean really, it's 8$ and it's green glass. Obviously it won't look like a 100$ b+w filter. However, for the amount of times I would actually use a real filter, this welding glass makes more sense. For now.

Here are a few more I took this afternoon. Getting the hang of it in post-processing. Unfortunately I went overboard with the long exposures. I'll be going back on a sunny day with some clouds and shorten the exposures.

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/57482477@N08/8​636091586/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/57482477@N08/8​636090196/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/57482477@N08/8​634983139/

Also, numbers 2 and 3 could still use more editing.

Max Powers wrote in post #15809070
...

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/57482477@N08/8​636090196/
Weldglass2 by Chenelster, on Flickr

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/57482477@N08/8​634983139/
weldglass3 by Chenelster, on Flickr

The effect on the water here is mesmerising.

I found the WB was far easier to correct in DPP than Lightroom

I do the initial conversion in DPP and then into LR for any further work to contrast, exposure etc

^ me too!

Took this one a while back in Melbourne, didnt really colour grade them just played around in cam to get diff colour tones.. theres a few alt versions on my flickr

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/geoffiez89/6854​099987/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/geoffiez89/6854​109433/

jabtas wrote in post #15811042
I found the WB was far easier to correct in DPP than Lightroom...

DPP is much better at correcting the WB in infrared images too.

I don't have one of these extreme ND filters, yet. But I do have an idea I'd like to try. Maybe someone else can go ahead and try it to see how it might work out.

Here's what to do. Choose a shorter exposure time so that all the fuzzy movement won't be exactly the same across multiple shots. Take several exposures of this time interval. In post processing, select good 3 ones that have variation between the shots. Take the red channel of the first, the green channel of the second, and the blue channel of the third, and combine those. That's experiment number ONE. It should have original color, and a rainbow effect for the variations. Now repeat the same thing, but use a monochrome version of each of the 3 images to become the red, green, and blue channels of the resulting image. This SECOND experiment should give a monochrome image of the overall scene with colors emerging where differences exist.

Another idea is to take a long sequence of these long exposures and combine them into an animation of video of some kind, showing ethereal like movement.

You might want to Google "Harris Shutter" which is the technique you're describing.
Sounds like fun. You should give it a go.