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Thread started 15 Oct 2009 (Thursday) 10:31
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Welding Glass (£1/$1 ND Filter) Exposures

 
Mike
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Jun 07, 2010 15:19 |  #406

I can vouch for that...he's bought a few of the Lee filter holders over the last couple of years...


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Ronin ­ Silv
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Jun 07, 2010 16:19 |  #407

Sharp-shooter wrote in post #10318786 (external link)
Hi Guys. Very interesting thread this. What sort of lenses are you using, and settings for this kind of work. Also nice to see some local peeps. :)

I weld as part of my job, so im really interested to give this a go with my Canon 450d. :)

Cheers all.

Wayne.

Mine were done with my 450d and ef-s 18-55 is kit lens with uv filter with the glass knocked out superglued to the welding glass so you'll be ok with yours.


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Anke
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Jun 08, 2010 06:27 |  #408

Mike wrote in post #10319326 (external link)
I can vouch for that...he's bought a few of the Lee filter holders over the last couple of years...

:D :D Oh yes! :D Keep Lee Filter holders away from bridges, I've lost two over them in the past couple of years. :rolleyes:


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Jun 08, 2010 16:50 |  #409

Anke wrote in post #10315170 (external link)
Anyone been out using their Welding Glass this week?

I finaly bought one, I will try and post it later tonight


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Jun 08, 2010 17:06 |  #410

lbcyalater wrote in post #10326873 (external link)
I finaly bought one, I will try and post it later tonight

Cool! Looking forward to it :)


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Jun 08, 2010 17:08 as a reply to  @ Anke's post |  #411

question, even though it was posted a little bit ago...is there a way to get a correct white balance without going BW?


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Anke
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Jun 08, 2010 17:19 |  #412

lbcyalater wrote in post #10326966 (external link)
question, even though it was posted a little bit ago...is there a way to get a correct white balance without going BW?

If you are using LR or ACR slide the Tint Slider all the way to the right, that'll get you pretty much back to reality.


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s2kologist
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Jun 09, 2010 01:26 |  #413

I got a 10 shade welding glass at Lowes for $5. I just used 2 rubber bands to secure it to my lens. I did not get any light leak.

IMAGE: http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b103/s2kologist/IMG_0102copy.jpg
here it is all set up

IMAGE: http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b103/s2kologist/IMG_3199.jpg
straight out of the camera. canon 40d with 17-55 f2.8 IS. f8, 160 seconds, iso100

IMAGE: http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b103/s2kologist/IMG_3199copy.jpg
here is the correction. i did 150+ magenta on the camera RAW tint slider. then i decreased the greens some more in camera raw

IMAGE: http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b103/s2kologist/IMG_3176copy.jpg
f10, 90 seconds

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Anke
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Jun 09, 2010 01:58 |  #414

That works really nice! GOod to hear you can buy it from the High Street too :)
Have fun with it :)


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s2kologist
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Jun 09, 2010 02:08 |  #415

i popped out the glass from a cheap UV filter and was going to glue it to the glass but the rubberband method worked really well so i dont know if i will be doing that

any processing tips? after i adjusted out the green i seamed to lose some of the color in the pic. it was really over cast and the skys were grey so maybe that was it?


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Anke
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Jun 09, 2010 02:17 |  #416

s2kologist wrote in post #10329318 (external link)
i popped out the glass from a cheap UV filter and was going to glue it to the glass but the rubberband method worked really well so i dont know if i will be doing that

any processing tips? after i adjusted out the green i seamed to lose some of the color in the pic. it was really over cast and the skys were grey so maybe that was it?

I use the band method if I'm in a rush, but it can be annoying when you want to do lots of images and you have to take it all apart to refocus, whereas the screw adapter would be nice and easy.

I find sliding the Tint Slider in ACR or LR all the way to the right helps get the image pretty close, then it's a case of small adjustments elsewhere, and I agree it can be tough getting it right, but you know what these images I think benefit from odd colours as they aren't really "real" images. You can always go black and white ;)


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chamee7
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Jun 09, 2010 02:53 |  #417

Nice work! wanna try this


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Jun 09, 2010 11:43 |  #418

Anke wrote in post #10329348 (external link)
I use the band method if I'm in a rush, but it can be annoying when you want to do lots of images and you have to take it all apart to refocus, whereas the screw adapter would be nice and easy.

I find with mine glued to a filter ring I have to be careful not to move the focus ring when screwing it on.
Next time I give it a go I'm going to try putting a polarizer on first before the welding glass to see if this helps with making the sky bluer.


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Jun 09, 2010 16:35 |  #419

Had the day off today. Sun came out this afternoon and I spied fast moving fluffy clouds with a nice blue sky. Grabbed my stuff and headed outside, just as the wind died down and all those fluffy clouds slowed down to a crawl. Took some longer exposures (up to 5 min) this time.
Now to kill the green...


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Jun 09, 2010 17:26 |  #420

And here's what I got. Two minute exposure on this one. The longer exposures didn't show the clouds really well. Needed to take a wider view of the sky I guess, but I wanted to have something other than a tree. And I didn't feel like going anywhere farther than the front deck :)


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Welding Glass (£1/$1 ND Filter) Exposures
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