Welding Glass (£1/$1 ND Filter) Exposures

Split Toning? That's a new one to Google...

Whats that DPP mean ?

Ah, OK They call that Split Toning... I thought it might have involved working with different color layers or something.

DPP = Digital Photo Professional. Comes with Canon Cameras and works well with the RAW files they create.

I always do my initial edits in DPP, then move on to CS5 for final and detail edits, mostly because DPP retains Canon's color profile, where Adobe does not.

Another of mine in full colour and black & white - couldnt decide which I prefer! Much easier now I have stuck it to a Cokin P adapter...

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/repeater1/59785​82867/

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B&W gets my vote, much more impact

repeater, those are great!
I like the impact of the black and white.

So, I grabbed a #11 filter today. Whats the best way to try and figure out how many stops this would be (so I can make a cheat sheet for exposures).

Thanks.

Nocturnus wrote in post #12827732
So, I grabbed a #11 filter today. Whats the best way to try and figure out how many stops this would be (so I can make a cheat sheet for exposures).

Thanks.

The old reliable method of Trial and Error!.

Wouldn't doing something like setting camera to Av @ f/22 (for my lens) and getting a good exposure, then put the glass over the lens and then start opening up the aperture till I have a proper exposure (via the camera's meter)? Don't have time this evening to mess around with it.

I use to think that until I realized things like cloud cover and amount of light hitting the subject for such a long exposure vary and can really change the exposure times from image to image.

I have found the camera can't meter accurately through the thick glass. To figure out the number of stops I would go out in a bright place and try to get a shutter speed around 1/2000-1/4000s. Keep the same aperture, iso, etc and then start with about 10 stops of shutter speed and take a test shot. See where that gets you and adjust as needed until you get a good exposure.

As tkerr said above, trial and error.

MakeMeShutter wrote in post #12827910
I use to think that until I realized things like cloud cover and amount of light hitting the subject for such a long exposure vary and can really change the exposure times from image to image.

It's amazing how the light can change over a 5 - 7 minute time span. Especially with clouds moving in front of the sun at times. It throws everything off. That's why you set the f/stop to a small opening for landscapes and throw everything else you've learned about exposure out the window because with the shutter open that long, anything can happen. I've gotten some pretty remarkable shots that way.

The exposure sensor have a larger measurement range than the image sensor has.

But that doesn't mean that it is perfectly linear and can give good readings in really dark environments.