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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Visual Enjoyment Still Life, B/W & Experimental 
Thread started 15 Oct 2009 (Thursday) 10:31
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Welding Glass (£1/$1 ND Filter) Exposures

 
Anke
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Sep 24, 2011 19:28 |  #1456

jabtas wrote in post #13156180 (external link)
I wouldn't be so hasty, it might fall to bits in my hands when I use it
LOL

Is it going to be totally light-sealed? Are you adding any foam or alike to around the edges?


Anke
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jabtas
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Sep 25, 2011 02:16 |  #1457

I'm thinking it will be ok, my glass has smooth ground edges so no light gets in to cause internal reflections from that way
When I used it just onto the reversed hood with laccy bands I had no flaring or leakage
Just need to test it now


Tim
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kawboy613
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Sep 25, 2011 19:50 |  #1458

here's my quick try....

same place i got the lens (LOWES) for $4.95, I also got a 3" flexible coupler from the plumbing dept (also about $4.95) (similar to the 2"x3" next to it in picture but only straight)...

Cut 1 end off just above the metal strap (shown at GREEN line) and use 100% silicone to attach to the welding lens.

I had originally purchased a 3"x4" thinking this would also act as a hood and maybe help with vignetting, but the it stuck out way too far, so i just used the 3" end and push it all the way onto the camera lens. Haven't gotten to try it yet, but i don't know why it wouldn't work.

probably doesn't need the metal strap, but i'm keeping it on as an added security, and then it only takes a penny and a VERY slight turn to keep it firmly in place.

all for around $10 or less. (granted i already had the silicone at home...)


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Anke
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Sep 25, 2011 19:54 |  #1459

kawboy613 wrote in post #13161902 (external link)
here's my quick try....

same place i got the lens (LOWES) for $4.95, I also got a 3" flexible coupler from the plumbing dept (also about $4.95) (similar to the 2"x3" next to it in picture but only straight)...

Cut 1 end off just above the metal strap (shown at GREEN line) and use 100% silicone to attach to the welding lens.

I had originally purchased a 3"x4" thinking this would also act as a hood and maybe help with vignetting, but the it stuck out way too far, so i just used the 3" end and push it all the way onto the camera lens. Haven't gotten to try it yet, but i don't know why it wouldn't work.

probably doesn't need the metal strap, but i'm keeping it on as an added security, and then it only takes a penny and a VERY slight turn to keep it firmly in place.

all for around $10 or less. (granted i already had the silicone at home...)

I'm really quite stunned at the ingenious ways that people are coming up with to attached welding glass to their lenses. :) Nice work! :)


Anke
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kawboy613
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Sep 25, 2011 20:03 |  #1460

LOL, thanks !

it helps that I'm the maintenance supervisor in an industrial factory, and my boss likes to do a lot of "bandaide repairs" on the cheap, so you learn all the "jimmy rigg" ways of doing things.

not that this is in any way right, but you gotta do as the boss says.... :(


Anyways, just by looking through my new lens, I've already noticed a "blemish" in the welding glass, so i'll probably be buying a new piece and trying this again. So next time, I'll use some black RTV engine gasket silicone that i just found out in my toolbox in the garage. (instead of the white silicone) although the main reason I used the white is because it's the kitchen/bath silicone, so i figured if it'll stick to smooth porcelain (toilet or tub), it'll stick to glass...


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jabtas
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Sep 26, 2011 01:41 |  #1461

Liking the Heath Robinson feel to this one
LOL

Who cares how it looks, as long as it works, in fact the more bizarre it looks the more weird looks you get
:lol::lol:

My 'broken' macro lens for example (I know slighly off-topic :rolleyes:)
http://www.pbase.com/j​abtas/image/54399508 (external link)


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jabtas
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Sep 26, 2011 12:41 as a reply to  @ Anke's post |  #1462

Managed to get out and test my adapted Cokin filter holder, fits great on my Sigma 15-30

IMAGE: http://www.pbase.com/jabtas/image/138379881.jpg

IMAGE: http://www.pbase.com/jabtas/image/138379879.jpg

But does vignette at the full 15mm, a little zoom or cropping can easily solve that ;)
IMAGE: http://www.pbase.com/jabtas/image/138381472.jpg

2 Images From Today

45secs @f11
IMAGE: http://www.pbase.com/jabtas/image/138381338.jpg

60secs @f11
IMAGE: http://www.pbase.com/jabtas/image/138381337.jpg

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Anke
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Sep 27, 2011 01:26 |  #1463

Works lovely, Tim! :)

Loving that second shot.


Anke
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MakeMeShutter
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Sep 27, 2011 21:09 as a reply to  @ Anke's post |  #1464

I got out a for about 20 minutes this morning before it started to rain.:(

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO

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jabtas
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Sep 28, 2011 01:26 |  #1465

Great location, I need to find somewhere like that
Great natural colours and very sharp, how are you processing your shots


Tim
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Anke
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Sep 28, 2011 03:43 |  #1466

MakeMeShutter wrote in post #13173758 (external link)
I got out a for about 20 minutes this morning before it started to rain.:(

IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO

This is nice. Well processed too.


Anke
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tkerr
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Sep 28, 2011 08:31 |  #1467

@ MakeMeShutter.
Great shot, great job of pp..


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InPhoto
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Sep 28, 2011 10:43 as a reply to  @ tkerr's post |  #1468

just two shots from the roof...

Mir 1a 37mm M42, 30sec F5.6 ISO 100
Welding Glass DIN 11, glued with bluetak on the flat flange of a 49mm Cokin filter adapter (not the filter holder)
DPP - Eye dropper on a grey surface to bring the colors back.

IMG NOTICE: [NOT AN IMAGE URL, NOT RENDERED INLINE]

IMG NOTICE: [NOT AN IMAGE URL, NOT RENDERED INLINE]

Some simple photos

  
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jabtas
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Sep 28, 2011 10:45 |  #1469

Looks like the lens/filterholder/glas​s combo works well together

I also found that DPP works very well with WB correction


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MakeMeShutter
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Sep 29, 2011 10:01 |  #1470

jabtas wrote in post #13174773 (external link)
Great location, I need to find somewhere like that
Great natural colours and very sharp, how are you processing your shots

As far as processing is concerned I will try to break it down a little.

IMPORTANT: Take a normal picture for reference to the colors as seen.

1. I generally take a few exposures of a scene and always have the noise reduction in my camera set to "ON". I find that that saves me valuable time later on, but costs me a bit of time while taking the image.
Note: by turning noise reduction "ON", you are then doubling the time it takes to produce an image. A 3 minute exposure takes 6 minutes because the camera is generating a black frame. Someone may be able to add a bit more to this, but that is the general gist.

2. I view my lightness histogram as the image is produced and adjust from there for future exposures. I also take lighting into consideration during the exposure. Sunlight and Shade make a huge difference in length of exposure. I look for a histogram that represents the scene. I am not always looking for the perfect bell curve that many books and websites preach as perfect exposure. If my scene is dark the curve should be to the left a little, and the opposite is true if the scene is light or a large percentage of it.

3. When I get home I upload the images to my computer.

4. I open the images in Photoshop CS4 and do a simple "Auto Color" from the "Image" drop down screen. At this point I sometimes try the "Auto Tone" feature and see if the image looks better or worse.

5. At this stage I judge the overall colors and sometimes compare them to the original image. --See "IMPORTANT" note above!

6. If I detect any color shift I try to correct it by going to IMAGE-Adjustments-Color Balance and moving the sliders until I find the right blend. All the time comparing it to the original colors. Ocassionally I make a slight Channel Mixer adjustment at this time.

7. I then remove noise, adjust saturation, adjust contrast, and add a small linear curves adjustment to add a bit of punch.

Hope that helps.


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