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Thread started 29 Oct 2009 (Thursday) 15:36
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What Macro Lens to Get?

 
xarqi
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Oct 30, 2009 00:44 |  #16

RiKaN HaVoK wrote in post #8921346 (external link)
good for you .. next time read before you ask then ..

No need. Seeing the identity of the poster will suffice.




  
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RiKaN ­ HaVoK
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Oct 30, 2009 08:28 |  #17

plasticmotif wrote in post #8922032 (external link)
reread your own question, dipstick.


visible details = sharpness


Anyway. Why get a macro, get the 100 f/2

lol .. so basically more details = sharpness? OK .. if you say so dipstick




  
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RiKaN ­ HaVoK
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Oct 30, 2009 08:29 |  #18

xarqi wrote in post #8922419 (external link)
No need. Seeing the identity of the poster will suffice.

lol .. so basically since I have a goofy avatar now you seen my identity ... lol .. love it how simple minded you are ...




  
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Jman13
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Oct 30, 2009 08:54 |  #19

The long and short of it is that all macro lenses are optically excellent. It’s quite difficult to get a bad one. In the 100mm range, for macro shooting, really, any lens will work just fine. If you want to hand hold a lot, it may be worth shelling out the extra $$ for the 100L because of its excellent IS.

In the longer range, the Sigma 150 is absolutely outstanding. Quick AF, very sharp, and good handling. If you want ~100mm range for dual duty...i.e, macro and portraiture, which it sounds like you do, the canon 100mm lenses are the way to go, as they have much faster AF than the Tamron 90 or the very slow Sigma 105mm.

I have the 100L, and it’s simply phenomenal...perhaps the best lens I’ve ever used optically, and with the focus limiter (0.5m to infinity), it's as fast as most any non-macro lens...very quick AF (and 0.5m is very close). I’ve previously owned the Sigma 105mm (dreadful AF, but very good image quality), and I have the Sigma 150, that will be sold since I just got the 100L. the Sigma 150 is also a great portrait lens, though harder to hand hold than the 100L due to the lack of IS.

So, to sum up: for portraits and macro, in the 100 range, go for either of the Canons, with the 100L if you want IS. For a longer lens, go for the Sigma 150 f/2.8. If you are going to be using it almost entirely for macro, any of the following lenses will be great: Tamron 90, Tokina 100, Sigma 105, Canon 100, Canon 100L IS, Sigma 150, Sigma 180, Canon 180L.


Jordan Steele - http://www.jsteelephot​os.com (external link) | https://www.admiringli​ght.com (external link)
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Canon EOS R5 | R6 | TTArtisan 11mm Fisheye | Sigma 14-24mm f/2.8 | RF 24-105mm f/4L IS | Tamron 35mm f/1.4 | RF 35mm f/1.8 | RF 50mm f/1.8 | RF 85mm f/2 | RF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS | Sigma 135mm f/1.8

  
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RiKaN ­ HaVoK
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Oct 30, 2009 09:30 |  #20

Jman thanks for the reply man ..

I will be doing a few weddings and I want to use it for wedding ring shoots and other small significant things ...

Thanks ..




  
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TweakMDS
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Oct 30, 2009 10:15 |  #21

I was just considering selling my Canon 100mm macro, to maybe get the L, but prices have gone down a bit (supply and demand - etc).

Now seems to be a really good time to buy a used Canon 100mm 2.8 macro.


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Green_Tea
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Oct 30, 2009 10:28 |  #22

Community wisdom would suggest the Canon 100mm:
https://photography-on-the.net …do=showresults&​pollid=636
I however have used the Sigma 150 for its working distance. I can say that It is very sharp, well built, decent AF beyond macro range, and comes with a tripod mount. That being said, I agree with Jman that you really can't go wrong. There are relatively few bad macro lenses. If you stick to the list he provided you will be happy.
-Trevor


6D|7D| Sigma 50mm 1.4 EX| Canon 100mm L IS macro| Canon 24-70 II L| Canon MP-E 65| 600 EX-RT| MT-24EX

  
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RPCrowe
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Oct 30, 2009 10:45 |  #23

RiKaN HaVoK wrote in post #8921133 (external link)
I never stated anything about sharpness .. please re-read my question ...

If I want to get a crazy IRIS shot or some detail makeup the 135L can't get close enough neither is that detail hence the question ..

If I was to go with a Macro which one and if not and I go with another lens which one .. 70-200 or 200? Or should I just buy tubes and use the 135L ... I'm trying to weight all my options ..

The 70-200mm f/4L IS is a fantastic lens but, its strength is not neccessarily in the most close up shots. Mine does quite well but, there have been many post regarding this lens having a shortfall in the MFD area.

I like my Tamron 90mm f/2.8 AF SP macro for portraiture. The bokeh is fantastic and of course, it is designed for close-up work.


See my images at http://rpcrowe.smugmug​.com/ (external link)

  
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zshaft
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Oct 31, 2009 10:09 |  #24

RiKaN HaVoK wrote in post #8919631 (external link)
For portrait and Weddings?

Or what Macro lens 100mm and up do you prefer?

BTW, I just want to do tighter headshoot with more visible details ...

I have the 85L II and 135L and Im thinking about getting the 70-200 IS either 4 or 2.8

For portrait & wedding, i usually use 85 & 135L (i do candid wedding only).
about macro lens (100 2.8L, i never use it for portrait in wedding).
:D


Canon 1Dx | 24 L II | 85 L II | 200 L II | Extender 1.4x & 2x III
Sigma 120-300 mm 2.8 OS HSM.

  
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mrkgoo
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Oct 31, 2009 13:10 |  #25

plasticmotif wrote in post #8922032 (external link)
reread your own question, dipstick.

visible details = sharpness

Anyway. Why get a macro, get the 100 f/2

Not to get off topic about semantics, but I would say sharpness is NOT the same as visible detail.

Sharpness is concerned with edge contrast of adjacent pixels or elements in the image.

Visible detail is to do with resolution or resolving power (be it from the lens or the sensor).

You can have low resolution images that are sharp, for example. Sharpness can be affected by viewing distance also. They're obviously related, but I don't think they're exclusive of each other.

Then again, "visible detail" as mentioned in the first post, may not be referring to absolute resolving power of a lens, but to visible sharpness. I dunno - just throwing it out there.




  
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Jman13
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Oct 31, 2009 13:51 |  #26

I think most people think of sharpness as resolution. To play semantics correctly, what you are referring to, when you talk about sharpness, is actually acutance (external link).


Jordan Steele - http://www.jsteelephot​os.com (external link) | https://www.admiringli​ght.com (external link)
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Canon EOS R5 | R6 | TTArtisan 11mm Fisheye | Sigma 14-24mm f/2.8 | RF 24-105mm f/4L IS | Tamron 35mm f/1.4 | RF 35mm f/1.8 | RF 50mm f/1.8 | RF 85mm f/2 | RF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS | Sigma 135mm f/1.8

  
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amfoto1
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Oct 31, 2009 14:07 |  #27

Getting back to the original question... And risking being called a dipstick...

I'm not really sure why you would want a macro lens for portraits and wedding? One would be okay for masculine portraits, but the ladies will likely hate you. The last thing they want is for your lens to bring out all the little "details" they're trying to cover up.

Plus you already have two of the best portrait lenses ever made: 85L and 135L.

Get or rent the 70-200/2.8L, preferably the IS, and see how that works out. It can focus pretty close, but if you need a still tighter shot than it can manage on its own, just pop an extension tube or two behind it.

You also could use extension tubes with your current 135, for that matter. And the 135 works pretty well with a 1.4X, too.

If you really feel you need a macro, your options are fairly limited since it sounds as if you are looking for a lens that's longer than your current 135mm. That leaves the Sigma 150/2.8 (which many like), either a Canon 180/3.5 or Sigma 180/3.5. I can't speak for the Sigma 180, but the Canon focuses pretty slowly. I dunno if it's slower than your 85 II though, so it might be okay. Personally I don't find the 180 Canon much of a "dual purpose" lens. It's a fine macro, but not great for non-macro shooting.


Alan Myers (external link) "Walk softly and carry a big lens."
5DII, 7DII, 7D, M5 & others. 10-22mm, Meike 12/2.8,Tokina 12-24/4, 20/2.8, EF-M 22/2, TS 24/3.5L, 24-70/2.8L, 28/1.8, 28-135 IS (x2), TS 45/2.8, 50/1.4, Sigma 56/1.4, Tamron 60/2.0, 70-200/4L IS, 70-200/2.8 IS, 85/1.8, Tamron 90/2.5, 100/2.8 USM, 100-400L II, 135/2L, 180/3.5L, 300/4L IS, 300/2.8L IS, 500/4L IS, EF 1.4X II, EF 2X II. Flashes, strobes & various access. - FLICKR (external link)

  
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mrkgoo
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Oct 31, 2009 14:08 |  #28

Jman13 wrote in post #8930461 (external link)
I think most people think of sharpness as resolution. To play semantics correctly, what you are referring to, when you talk about sharpness, is actually acutance (external link).

Wow, awesome, thanks for that! Learning is great.

I guess I consider sharpness = acutance then, separate from resolving detail. What would you say "sharpness" is?

edit:

Just noticed this at teh bottom of that wiki entry :

wiki wrote:
Sharpness

Perceived sharpness is a combination of both resolution and acutance: it is thus a combination of the captured resolution, which cannot be changed in processing, and of acutance, which can be so changed.
Properly, perceived sharpness is the steepness of transitions (slope), which is change in output value divided by change in position – hence it is maximized for large changes in output value (as in sharpening filters) and small changes in position (high resolution).
Coarse grain or noise can, like sharpening filters, increase acutance, hence increasing the perception of sharpness, even though they degrade the signal-to-noise ratio.
The term "critical sharpness" is sometimes heard (by analogy with critical focus) for "obtaining maximal optical resolution", as limited by the sensor/film and lens, and in practice means minimizing camera shake – using a tripod or alternative support, mirror lock-up, a cable release or timer, image stabilizing lenses – and optimal aperture, usually 2–3 stops down from wide-open.




  
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What Macro Lens to Get?
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