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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 31 Oct 2009 (Saturday) 12:07
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I blew out my light

 
charl1e
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Oct 31, 2009 12:07 |  #1

I was in China this last summer, filming a documentary. I had my Lowell prolight and, without thinking, plugged it into an electrical outlet. Seeing that the prolight was made for US voltages, it instantly blew out. Is there anyway to fix the light/circuit or is it toast? Thanks


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Naturalist
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Oct 31, 2009 12:10 |  #2

Not familiar with the lights but is there a fuse?


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scotch
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Oct 31, 2009 12:46 |  #3

likelihood is that the fuse is current-dependent and not voltage dependent. Light is toast :(




  
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Seanzky
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Oct 31, 2009 21:28 |  #4

Ouch. No step down transformer? I always check the voltage range in all my gadgets to make sure it's international-ready. Sorry to hear that. Having the thing rebuilt isn't worth it, in my opinion.


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Jumpcut
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Nov 01, 2009 04:10 |  #5

The pro light is a very basic light. I think a fuse and bulb replacement and it would be good to go again. Just check that the wiring has not been damaged.


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Seanzky
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Nov 01, 2009 07:30 |  #6

Jumpcut wrote in post #8933407 (external link)
The pro light is a very basic light. I think a fuse and bulb replacement and it would be good to go again. Just check that the wiring has not been damaged.

I think putting twice the voltage through any unit blows out everything, not just the fuse and bulb.


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scotch
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Nov 01, 2009 07:51 |  #7

Depends on the circuitry, if one component fails early and blows open-circuit, everything after that will be saved.




  
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Wilt
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Nov 01, 2009 12:46 |  #8

If you are referring to the 250w Lowell Pro-light quartz halogen

IMAGE NOT FOUND
IMAGE IS A REDIRECT OR MISSING!
HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Byte size: ZERO
, you most likely simply blew out a bulb...the bulb needs to be replaced.

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rx7speed
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Nov 01, 2009 12:54 |  #9

Psychobiker wrote in post #8930195 (external link)
likelihood is that the fuse is current-dependent and not voltage dependent. Light is toast :(

couldn't the fuse still blow as with higher voltage would lead to higher amperage?


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Wilt
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Nov 01, 2009 13:08 |  #10

rx7speed wrote in post #8935143 (external link)
couldn't the fuse still blow as with higher voltage would lead to higher amperage?

A fuse is 'power' triggered, via the Amperage rating...the Voltage rating is normally higher than the voltage of the circuit it is designed to break. They are rated for certain Amp rating, for example 500 mA, whereas the Voltage rating merely is an indication of its ability to trip without 'exploding' the casing of the fuse.


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scotch
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Nov 01, 2009 13:10 |  #11

Exactly, wilt. Otherwise every time it blows, it'd shower your whole unit in glass!




  
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rx7speed
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Nov 01, 2009 13:16 |  #12

Wilt wrote in post #8935194 (external link)
A fuse is 'power' triggered, via the Amperage rating...the Voltage rating is normally higher than the voltage of the circuit it is designed to break. They are rated for certain Amp rating, for example 500 mA, whereas the Voltage rating merely is an indication of its ability to trip without 'exploding' the casing of the fuse.

I'm not quite sure that addresses what I was refering to. this has little to do with the voltage ratig of the fuse itself. if you take a circuit then up the voltage going into it in turn the amperage going through it will go up as well as the load stays the same.
10v through 2ohms= 5amps.
20v through same 2ohms = 10amps


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scotch
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Nov 01, 2009 13:20 |  #13

Not so much true, rx7speed. That's pure dissipation, ie. connecting a resistor across the power supply - a 'dead short' application.

If it takes say, 100W to run something like a laptop:

100V at 1A = 100W
230V at .43A = 100W

L




  
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Nov 01, 2009 13:28 |  #14

If it's not cover by a warrenty open it up and look for a fuse. If fuse blown replace use light. If no fuse look for anything burned. If you see something burned on a circuit board get a soarding guntake it out and go to Radio Shack get a new part and put it back in and use light. I have fixed several strobe lights and other electronic items this way. I did not even know what the parts I was replacing were called till I got them Identified at Radio shack but once I replaced them the strobes worked. Burned parts are burned parts and they really stick out. Just my two cents. I have more cents too as I fix things . Caution never work on these things while there plugged in. Strobes Wait 1 hour once unplugged before opening as they stay charged even when you think there not working.


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rx7speed
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Nov 01, 2009 14:51 |  #15

Psychobiker wrote in post #8935253 (external link)
Not so much true, rx7speed. That's pure dissipation, ie. connecting a resistor across the power supply - a 'dead short' application.

If it takes say, 100W to run something like a laptop:

100V at 1A = 100W
230V at .43A = 100W

L

sorry it has been far too long since I have dealt with electronics so I might be a bit hazy here but I'll try.

many times you can run more power through something then what is required to run it. IE upping the voltage going into a circuit will also up the power consumption by the circuit. and while it might not always be a linear amount like my example quoted above from my experience higher voltage means more amperage which all means more power.

what you have described on the other hand is a negative resistance circuit which I would doubt would be used for a strobe/steady light setup or am I missing something here?


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I blew out my light
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