Having trouble tracking moving subjects

Hey all, I've been trying to get back into shooting skateboarding, but I'm encountering the same problem I've always had, I just can't seem to get an in focus sharp shot of moving skaters. I use AF Servo, but it doesnt help, so I assume I'm doing something wrong. I've also tried prefocusing but I'm no good at that either it seems. Any thoughts?

Body / Lens Combo you're using? Daylight? Flash?

I think we need a few more details on this.

Sure. 50D, fisheye, 17-40 f/4, 35 f/1.4L, doesnt matter. And yes, using a few flashes actually, and shooting anywhere from 1/250 to 1/500 so I know I'm freezing the action, so it's gotta be the focus, right? Or maybe I'm moving the camera and not knowing it, a lot of times I'm bending at ridiculous angles or even just holding the camera out in space, its possible, but I know I still have the problem when I'm sitting steady.

Can you post some samples with which you're not happy (EXIF Intact)?

FlyingPhotog wrote in post #8987085
Can you post some samples with which you're not happy (EXIF Intact)?

+1.

Also, 1/250 sec is too slow to stop action for non flashed shots. At 1/500 you can do OK.

Zivnuska wrote in post #8995066
+1.

Also, 1/250 sec is too slow to stop action for non flashed shots. At 1/500 you can do OK.

They were flashed. Two flashes, actually, both as max power.

Zivnuska wrote in post #8995066
+1.

Also, 1/250 sec is too slow to stop action for non flashed shots. At 1/500 you can do OK.

Maybe you can read my whole post before posting, I quote myself "And yes, using a few flashes actually, and shooting anywhere from 1/250 to 1/500.."

gregpphoto wrote in post #8995246
Maybe you can read my whole post before posting, I quote myself "And yes, using a few flashes actually, and shooting anywhere from 1/250 to 1/500.."

I did read it. When you said a few flashes, it was not clear that you meant that all shots were flashed.

How far above ambient were you on these flashed shots? There will be a significant difference between shooting at the max sync speed and HSS.

Zivnuska wrote in post #8995609
I did read it. When you said a few flashes, it was not clear that you meant that all shots were flashed.

How far above ambient were you on these flashed shots? There will be a significant difference between shooting at the max sync speed and HSS.

I dont understand, how far above ambient, and hss? I definitely underexposed the scene and let the lights do a lot of the work.

gregpphoto wrote in post #8996191
I dont understand, how far above ambient, and hss? I definitely underexposed the scene and let the lights do a lot of the work.

You need the flash to be 2 or 3 stops above ambient in order to allow the strobes to freeze the motion and prevent ghosting/blurring.

HSS would work at higher SS if you're close enough, but only for a single on-board flash unless you get really fancy with radiopoppers or master/slave.

All of the advice and speculation is worthless without having some sample photos.

Are you using center focus point only?

I'd suggest you forego the exotic angles and the flash. And shoot with shutter speeds of 1/500 or higher until you resolve the focusing problems. Hold the camera up to your eye and make sure you are keeping the center focus point on a good high contrast part of your subject. Give the camera the moment it takes for the focus to lock on before you fire away.

clarence wrote in post #8996245
You need the flash to be 2 or 3 stops above ambient in order to allow the strobes to freeze the motion and prevent ghosting/blurring.

HSS would work at higher SS if you're close enough, but only for a single on-board flash unless you get really fancy with radiopoppers or master/slave.

Again, not sure what HSS means, high speed sync? If so, whats SS mean? In any event, i wasn't getting any ghosting, and I believe I was around a stop, two, or three higher than ambient.

DDCSD wrote in post #8999528
All of the advice and speculation is worthless without having some sample photos.

Why, have you never seen oof images before? It takes me 3 minutes per image in DPP to process from RAW to JPEG and I don't have time to go through crap images. Besides, I delete most of em in camera anyway.


I was using all the focal points, mostly center but I tried them all. It didn't seem to make a difference. I had this same deal with the 20D, so I know it's me, not the camera, but where am I screwing up is what I wonder.

Make sure that you Keep tracking as you press the shutter, just like panning or shooting clay pigeons with a shotgun.
If you are not using back button focus, give it a try, this might help our problem.

Jack

gregpphoto wrote in post #9001238
Why, have you never seen oof images before? It takes me 3 minutes per image in DPP to process from RAW to JPEG and I don't have time to go through crap images. Besides, I delete most of em in camera anyway.

Yep, seen tons of them. There's many, many different reasons that photos appear to be oof. Posting a few examples can take the guesswork out of it and we can likely give you an idea of what may be happening. Without those examples, all we can do is list the reasons that photos may appear to be oof.

You photos may not even be technically oof. There may be something else going.

If it takes you 3 minutes to convert a raw file in DPP, you need to have a look at your workflow. You don't need to process the images for this, just convert them and post them.

Even if it does take you 3 minutes a photo, wouldn't it be worth spending 9 minutes to post up some samples if it gets you a good answer? Isn't that better than wasting all that time taking the photos only to delete them?

If you can't be bothered to take a few steps to help us help you, why should anyone waste their with you? Many people here (myself included) are more than happy to take some time helping people out. Our time is just as valuable as yours is.

There, I just wasted 3 minutes of my life to explain why you should post up some examples. Why not invest 3 minutes of your life to make your photos better? I think you owe it to everyone that has posted in this thread trying to help you.