AF points on 1D MK II

Just got a 1D Mk II and was wondering how you sports shooters out there set up your focus points for sports.

center

Center sport all the time.

http://www.picasaweb.g​oogle.com/fspdoncaster​rugby

Ditto

Here is a link that SI recommends for settings on a 1D2:
http://www.siphoto.com​/?canon1DM2.inc

I usually use one of the AF points between the center points and the outer edge. That way I can shoot tight and not have the AF catch hands.

I also have my AF set to "slow". This doesn't affect tracking speed, it just keeps the AF from grabbing onto the BG or anything that may pass in between you and your subject.

For field sports that I can't fill the frame I'll turn the AF expansion on to 7 points.

I have mine set to center on the * button and then have ring of fire on the [X] button . One of the big reasons why I love the 1D2.

tfd888 wrote in post #9019702
I have mine set to center on the * button and then have ring of fire on the [X] button . One of the big reasons why I love the 1D2.

What does that mean exactly

10megapixel wrote in post #9025489
What does that mean exactly

You can register an AF point to your x button (FEC button). This means that the camera will automatically switch to the registered AF point when you press it. I have mine set to the center AF point.

The ring of fire is simply having all AF points active.

Oh, I see... thank you

DDCSD wrote in post #9026953
You can register an AF point to your x button (FEC button). This means that the camera will automatically switch to the registered AF point when you press it. I have mine set to the center AF point.

The ring of fire is simply having all AF points active.

Yup. I have mine set up so it's activates the registered AF point only while pressing the [X] button so that I effectively have two AF on buttons each with their own AF point. Believe it's C.Fn-18 option 2.

tfd888 wrote in post #9027944
Yup. I have mine set up so it's activates the registered AF point only while pressing the [X] button so that I effectively have two AF on buttons each with their own AF point. Believe it's C.Fn-18 option 2.

Yes it is C.Fn-18 OPTION 2.

http://www.picasaweb.g​oogle.com/fspdoncaster​rugby

And I was wondering why Canon decided that on mk3 19 af points is enough for us. Obviously only one single one in center would do too.
Why do you guys want to limit yourself to only one single af point? This means, especially when shooting with longer wide open lenses, that either face is out of focus, or face is always in center of photo. Neither of these two options works for me. So I use af point where I want athletes face to be. And in 99.9% of cases, this is not center.

I agree. We're not talking about an XT here where the only AF point worth using is the center one. Use the one you need folks!

primoz wrote in post #9029453
And I was wondering why Canon decided that on mk3 19 af points is enough for us. Obviously only one single one in center would do too.
Why do you guys want to limit yourself to only one single af point? This means, especially when shooting with longer wide open lenses, that either face is out of focus, or face is always in center of photo. Neither of these two options works for me. So I use af point where I want athletes face to be. And in 99.9% of cases, this is not center.

This is a good point! I may try that for basketball season.

primoz wrote in post #9029453
And I was wondering why Canon decided that on mk3 19 af points is enough for us. Obviously only one single one in center would do too.
Why do you guys want to limit yourself to only one single af point? This means, especially when shooting with longer wide open lenses, that either face is out of focus, or face is always in center of photo. Neither of these two options works for me. So I use af point where I want athletes face to be. And in 99.9% of cases, this is not center.

I think that most people who use center point only are aiming at the player's chest where they are more likely to find a high contrast target than if aiming for the player's face. And secondly, if your aim is not quite perfect and slips a bit to one side or the other as your subject moves, you're less likely to be moving your focus point to a distant background. Of course it varies according to which focal length glass you're using, the longer the glass the shallower the DoF, so it is less critical with the more commonly used focal lengths.