How would you rate the focus ability of the 7D against the 40D? Low light, good light - fast action. Real world impressions. Thanks.
DonPowell Senior Member 461 posts Joined Nov 2005 More info | Nov 14, 2009 00:56 | #1 How would you rate the focus ability of the 7D against the 40D? Low light, good light - fast action. Real world impressions. Thanks.
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shayneyasinski Senior Member 657 posts Joined Dec 2008 Location: Canada (sask) More info | Nov 14, 2009 01:08 | #2 I went from the 40d to the 7d and so far I seem to be getting alot more keepers when shooting action like hockey! my gear Canon 7D, Canon 5DMK2, 70-200 f2.8 IS, 50mm f1.8, canon 430 speedlight, canon 17-55 2.8 IS, canon 100mm macro sigma 10-20, Canon 17-85 , 60 cokin filters , 2x telecoverter.
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Sean Goldmember 1,714 posts Joined Apr 2008 Location: Ottawa, Ontario More info | Nov 14, 2009 07:54 | #3 I'd think the new AF system of the 7D can out focus a 40D. It's what it was designed to do. With my limited time with the 7D, it hit the focus lock fast, and accurate. Canon 50D - 17-55mm F2.8 IS - 300mm F4L IS - 70-200mm F4L IS - 50mm F1.8 - 580EX II & 430EX - Full Gear Listing
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pgcaldito Member 43 posts Joined Mar 2009 More info | Nov 14, 2009 09:05 | #4 My subjective impression: I've used the 7D a few times late at night with minimal light, and it has surprisingly little trouble. My 40D hunts more in those situations, though some times if I'm patient, it will eventually find enough to lock on to. Stated otherwise, you can use the 7D AF in low-light situations where you simply can't use the 40D AF.
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canonloader Cream of the Crop More info | Nov 14, 2009 14:04 | #5 I was quite happy with the 40D AF. I compared it then and still think it was as good as the 1D Classic and better than the 1D MkIIN. I've only had the 7D about 3 weeks and it's been gray and nasty most of the time, and I do not have a fast Canon lens right now. I use a Bigma that is f/6.3, slow, especially on dark days. While the 7D is great at high ISO, 1600 looks very nice, it's still dark and gray for the AF sensor. Saying that, I have found I miss more shots with the 7D than I did with the 40D. Mostly of birds in flight. Mitch- ____...^.^...____
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Thanks to all for your input.
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canonloader Cream of the Crop More info | Nov 14, 2009 15:33 | #7 Some of my best BIF shots to date were taken with the 40D. Further, I could crop those files up to 100% and with a little noise reduction and sharpening, I got really fine shots. As I said, AF was very fine and responsive. Mitch- ____...^.^...____
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Mitch, thanks again for your input. It is great to hear real world opinion in my main area of photo interest.
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canonloader Cream of the Crop More info | Nov 14, 2009 16:03 | #9 Well, with any luck, Eagle season will open here this year. That's what I judge my cameras and lenses by. If I can shoot an eagle making a fishing run, it comes out sharp and I can print a 16x20 sharp image from the files, I consider it a series Birding camera. The 40D was able to do that. Let's see what the 7D does. Mitch- ____...^.^...____
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19k82 Member 71 posts Joined Mar 2007 More info | my 7d is amazingly better. Its a lot bigger improvement from 40d>7d vs what 20d>40d was a few years ago.
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canonloader Cream of the Crop More info | Nov 14, 2009 17:29 | #11 if focus is important make sure you are using 2.8 or better lenses Your talking $4000 to $6000 worth of glass for longer lenses. Far beyond the means of most people who will buy a 7D. If focus is important to you, your camera should focus with any lens. Especially a camera body that costs $1700. Mitch- ____...^.^...____
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I shoot with a Canon 500 f4.5, and that is close enough to the 2.8 lens for me. Actually I don't think I would really like the Canon 400 f2.8, even if I could affort to buy it.
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BillBoehme Enjoy being spanked More info | Nov 14, 2009 21:18 | #13 canonloader wrote in post #9014905 So far, the 7D does not seem to crop as much as I would think, without adding nosie. I don't know exactly why this is yet, cause it makes no sense. An 18Mp image should crop a lot more than a 10Mp image. But that's not what I am seeing so far. Mitch, until recently I was thinking along the same lines, but had not considered the two following factors that would effect what I see when editing the images:
There is still one aspect of the 7D's images that still bugs me somewhat -- noise. I have become accustomed to the clean XTi images at ISO 100 and the 7D images seem to have a slight dusty appearance in the lower brightness areas. The good news is that resizing images down eliminates most of this noise very effectively, so it may be partially my problem of pixel peeping the noise at 100%. Maybe, I just need to get a 1Ds Mark IV and quit fretting over nits. AFTERTHOUGHT: After seeing some images from the 1Ds III, I am beginning to think that what I perceived as "noise", in actuality may fine detail that really is there, but was not being captured and/or getting lost during the demosaicing process which fills in the "missing" colors by interpolation. canonloader wrote in post #9014905 Also, CS3 no longer opens my 7D RAWS, and my 3gig P4 processor does not want to keep up with the new DPP software needed to convert the RAW's to tiff so I can edit them in CS3. I will need to rebuild my computer soon. In the beginning, I was going back and forth between DPP and ACR trying to decide which to use. DPP is slower than molasses in winter when rendering full sized images at final resolution (it goes through about three or four intermediate resolutions before it finally gets there). And then writing a TIF in DPP is really slow and the files are huge. Since I still have CS3 (and probably will for quite a while), I am in the same boat as you are regarding converting files, but I have finally decided that if I use DNG Converter and then process the digital negative files in ACR, I prefer the results over using DPP to create TIF files. Also, the Digital Negative route is considerably faster than the long waits in DPP. The one sticking point is that the current camera profile for the 7D in Adobe's conversion engine is just a generic beta version that does not give color and contrast that I am completely happy with (everything has a slight yellow bias). Another problem is that shadows have a reddish cast, but that can be corrected in ACR. My interim solution to this is that I used Adobe's DNG Profile Editor (which is a freebie on their web site) to create my own profiles. I am fairly pleased with the results. canonloader wrote in post #9014905 And then, there is the matter of saving hundreds, and then thousands, and eventually tens of thousands of 22.6Mb files for posterity. A very real problem. I feel your pain, Mitch. Even though I have a rather decent computer with a dual processor and really fast memory and lots of it, I am concerned about filling up my 2 TB hard drives in short order, especially since I am shooting lots of images. I probably need to be more aggressive in deleting files since I can't possibly have a need for all that I have saved. I doubt that posterity will be interested in all of my photographs. Atmospheric haze in images? Click for Tutorial to Reduce Atmospheric Haze with Photoshop.
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monty28428 Cream of the Crop More info | Nov 14, 2009 21:26 | #14 I see very little difference between the 40D/7D when using center point for focus of moving subjects (7D may be a tad faster) --- move that point off center and the 7D will smoke the 40D every time.
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BillBoehme Enjoy being spanked More info | Nov 14, 2009 21:30 | #15 monty28428 wrote in post #9016473 I see very little difference between the 40D/7D when using center point for focus of moving subjects (7D may be a tad faster) --- move that point off center and the 7D will smoke the 40D every time. My baseline for focusing is the XTi, so I took a quantum leap ahead with the 7D. Atmospheric haze in images? Click for Tutorial to Reduce Atmospheric Haze with Photoshop.
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