Help with understanding hyperfocal focusing

Ive been doing some reading online and in magazines. More and more I hear of hyperfocal distance and focusing. I read that different aperatures with produce better focus depending on hyperfocal distace. Those of you that do use this what is the process? Any links that I can go to that may help me. I have been to the side that has the calculator but still a little unclear on the process and how it will improve my shots. Thanks

So what the heck is hyperfocal distance and why should I care?
http://www.vividlight.​com/articles/2314.htm

https://photography-on-the.net/forum/viewtopi​c.php?t=49808
Hyperfocal Distance is based on the lens, not the camera.

Here is a custom Hyperfocal Chart maker.
http://www.johnhendry.​com/gadget/hf.php

Second link is broken. Thanks I got more reading to do.

Sorry. If you do a Title search for Hyperfocal Distance, you'll find a lot of links.

ben4633 wrote in post #9040335
Ive been doing some reading online and in magazines. More and more I hear of hyperfocal distance and focusing. I read that different aperatures with produce better focus depending on hyperfocal distace. Those of you that do use this what is the process? Any links that I can go to that may help me. I have been to the side that has the calculator but still a little unclear on the process and how it will improve my shots. Thanks

The distances in the hyperfocal tables are based primarily on the focal length that is being used, as well as on the Circle of Confusion (CoC) that applies to your sensor size (so, in effect, it is by extension also based on the camera). This means that the hyperfocal distance for a given identical focal length/aperture combination will vary between two cameras with different sensors (ie crop and FF). If you download a hyperfocal distance table, be sure to download one that has been calculated for your particular type of sensor. One last thing...hyperfocal tables are generally based on a specific output print size (8x10). If you plan to print larger than 8x10 (say 11x 14), the general fix is to stop down your aperture one stop smaller than what has been specified in the table.

By definition, when focusing at the hyperfocal distance everything from one-half the hyperfocal distance (HFD) to infinity will fall within the range of acceptable sharpness (not pin-sharp throughout). Since the distance scales on modern AF-lenses are pretty much useless, if you want to use HFD techniques you will need to estimate distances or step them off when possible. There is an easy way to do this, however, and this is the technique that I use when shooting:

1.) Find the nearest interesting foreground object that you want in your shot
2.) Compose your shot and make note of the lens' final focal length (if using a zoom; if using a prime, its a no-brainer)
3.) Measure or estimate the distance from your camera to the nearest foreground object that you want in focus
4.) Double the distance obtained in (3), and this will be the HFD (Remember the HFD definition: Since HFD means that everything from one-half the HFD to infinity will be acceptably sharp, the foreground element distance will therefore then be at the one-half distance, so doubling that will by definition be the HFD)
5.) Consult your HFD table...for your specific focal length (see Step 2 above) and HFD determined in Step 4, select the aperture that is specific to both of those values
6.) Focus your shot at the HFD determined in Step 4.
7.) Press the shutter button and chimp your histogram.

It sounds complicated, but its really not once you try it a few times. For example, assume that I'm using a 24mm lens on my 5D2. I compose my shot, and the nearest foreground element that I want in focus is about 3 feet from my camera. If I double that distance, that gives me an HFD of 6 feet. I consult my HFD table and find that at 24mm and an HFD of 6 feet, I need an aperture of f/13 to pull off the shot. Next, I focus my lens at the 6 feet distance and set the aperture. The process is basically as simple as that. Some may argue that this not a "correct" approach, but if you go back to the definition of HFD and the distance ratios, it follows all the rules. I've been using this method successfully for years, and this approach will guarantee that your desired foreground element will always be in focus. More importantly, in this manner, I'm letting my composition determine the HFD, rather than vice versa.

In the old days of film and manual focussing, the hyperfocal distances were usually marked on the lens. So much easier !

Certainly helped my understanding of what hyperfocal distance is and how it works.

Sorarse wrote in post #9052849
In the old days of film and manual focussing, the hyperfocal distances were usually marked on the lens. So much easier !

Certainly helped my understanding of what hyperfocal distance is and how it works.

Which is why I still do a lot of shooting with older MF lenses on my DSLR...as you stated, so much easier.

Sorarse wrote in post #9052849
In the old days of film and manual focussing, the hyperfocal distances were usually marked on the lens. So much easier !

Certainly helped my understanding of what hyperfocal distance is and how it works.

Mostly primes I guess?
It was easier, and you usually had a useful scale on the lens to help out too.
I suppose it's genuinely so much harder to create such an easy to read scale with zoom lenses so they just don't bother.

So, what if I dont know my output print size? Is this method of focus uselss than? Where can I find a focus chart for a 50D?

argyle wrote in post #9052731
The distances in the hyperfocal tables are based primarily on the focal length that is being used, as well as on the Circle of Confusion (CoC) that applies to your sensor size (so, in effect, it is by extension also based on the camera). This means that the hyperfocal distance for a given identical focal length/aperture combination will vary between two cameras with different sensors (ie crop and FF). If you download a hyperfocal distance table, be sure to download one that has been calculated for your particular type of sensor. One last thing...hyperfocal tables are generally based on a specific output print size (8x10). If you plan to print larger than 8x10 (say 11x 14), the general fix is to stop down your aperture one stop smaller than what has been specified in the table.

By definition, when focusing at the hyperfocal distance everything from one-half the hyperfocal distance (HFD) to infinity will fall within the range of acceptable sharpness (not pin-sharp throughout). Since the distance scales on modern AF-lenses are pretty much useless, if you want to use HFD techniques you will need to estimate distances or step them off when possible. There is an easy way to do this, however, and this is the technique that I use when shooting:

1.) Find the nearest interesting foreground object that you want in your shot
2.) Compose your shot and make note of the lens' final focal length (if using a zoom; if using a prime, its a no-brainer)
3.) Measure or estimate the distance from your camera to the nearest foreground object that you want in focus
4.) Double the distance obtained in (3), and this will be the HFD (Remember the HFD definition: Since HFD means that everything from one-half the HFD to infinity will be acceptably sharp, the foreground element distance will therefore then be at the one-half distance, so doubling that will by definition be the HFD)
5.) Consult your HFD table...for your specific focal length (see Step 2 above) and HFD determined in Step 4, select the aperture that is specific to both of those values
6.) Focus your shot at the HFD determined in Step 4.
7.) Press the shutter button and chimp your histogram.

It sounds complicated, but its really not once you try it a few times. For example, assume that I'm using a 24mm lens on my 5D2. I compose my shot, and the nearest foreground element that I want in focus is about 3 feet from my camera. If I double that distance, that gives me an HFD of 6 feet. I consult my HFD table and find that at 24mm and an HFD of 6 feet, I need an aperture of f/13 to pull off the shot. Next, I focus my lens at the 6 feet distance and set the aperture. The process is basically as simple as that. Some may argue that this not a "correct" approach, but if you go back to the definition of HFD and the distance ratios, it follows all the rules. I've been using this method successfully for years, and this approach will guarantee that your desired foreground element will always be in focus. More importantly, in this manner, I'm letting my composition determine the HFD, rather than vice versa.

ben4633 wrote in post #9053094
So, what if I dont know my output print size? Is this method of focus uselss than? Where can I find a focus chart for a 50D?

1.) Then stick with the default values.
2.) Not really. I wouldn't bother using HFD if just taking quick vacation snaps. But if I plan on shooting for framable/sellable prints, I'll definitely use it.
3.) You can find HFD charts anywhere on line...just make sure that you download the chart for a 1.6 crop sensor. Or, you can google the HFD formula and create your own in an excel spreadsheet...just be sure to use the appropriate CoC for your sensor size. I made my own based on the typical focal lengths that I normally use when shooting landscapes...

Here's a quick approximation. Whenever you focus your lens there will be an area that "appears" in focus and areas that "appear" out of focus. A smaller (larger #) f-stop will make more of the image look sharp.
In landscapes, the important thing is that 1/3rd of the image toward you from the thing you're focused on "appears" sharp, and 2/3rds of the image away from you from the thing you're focused on "appears" sharp.

ben4633 wrote in post #9053094
Where can I find a focus chart for a 50D?

Go back to the second post, follow the first link to vividlight, and download the Excel file at the bottom of the page. Go to the Digital SLRs sheet and enter a CoC value of 0.019 for a 50D (http://www.dofmaster.c​om/digital_coc.html). Note: the focal lengths in row 24 can be changed, which changes both the feet and meters HFD values (the focal lengths in row 13 are actually ignored in the feet HFD calculation.)