Post your 9 or 10 stop ND photos

lankforddl wrote in post #13035973
I apologize for not reading through the entire post to see if the subject has come up but does anyone ever stack two polarizer filters (and turn them as needed) to accomplish what a 10 stop ND does? I've used welding glass and tried a few other things but I was curious what others experience was with this.

The problem with this is that you won't know exactly how many stops of light you've reduced. Knowing that I'm using 13 stops of light for instance allows me to either use Sunny-16 or take a test shot if I'm not shooting something lit by direct sunlight, and then just doing a little basic math to nail the correct exposure.

Otherwise, you need to take a 4-minute exposure to figure out that you were, two stops off. Then you take a 16-minute exposure but the sun went down a bit more and you realize that you're still off. Knowing your stop-loss is critical for me, especially in changing light.

My contribution - 30 second exposure.

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …regandmellina/6​137883681/

What was the exposure time in these?
and what was ND value?

Typically on broad daylight i get 1/6 to 1/20 on my ND8 filter (keeping other settings optimum) which is not enough for blurring water n clouds. Did u use 2 filters parallely?

Cory Varcoe wrote in post #9060153
=//Cory Varcoe;9060153]Why not... heres a few for now

(1)

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/34999025@N05/4​103244577/
(2)

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/34999025@N05/4​062968461/
(3)

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/34999025@N05/4​054354755/

Your ND8 is 3 stops (2*2*2 = 8)

This thread is about 9 stop or 10 stop filters, i.e. ND500 or ND1000 using the naming convention from your filter. That is why you can get long shutter times even at middle of day.

It really is a bit confusing, that ND filters are named so differently. Sometimes 8x. Sometimes 3 stop. And the 10-stop B+W filter ND110 (just a model name, but with last two digits meaning 10 stops) is also called 3.0 (as in 10^3, or 10*10*10), because "optical density" is measured in factor 10, while photographers uses stops, which are factor 2.

Ohh I see!! and typically how much these nd500 and nd1000 filters cost? any brand recomendations?

Thanks!!

pwm2 wrote in post #13089713
Your ND8 is 3 stops (2*2*2 = 8)

This thread is about 9 stop or 10 stop filters, i.e. ND500 or ND1000 using the naming convention from your filter. That is why you can get long shutter times even at middle of day.

It really is a bit confusing, that ND filters are named so differently. Sometimes 8x. Sometimes 3 stop. And the 10-stop B+W filter ND110 (just a model name, but with last two digits meaning 10 stops) is also called 3.0 (as in 10^3, or 10*10*10), because "optical density" is measured in factor 10, while photographers uses stops, which are factor 2.

Agreed...love that filter

Cole_Schmitt wrote in post #13053338
I have it. It's an excellent filter.

alankar_123 wrote in post #13090303
Ohh I see!! and typically how much these nd500 and nd1000 filters cost? any brand recomendations?

Thanks!!

What pwm2 said, don't be confused by the numbers. You'd be looking for ND512 & ND1024 filters.

B+W are a common round type filter manufacturer that have a 10 stop. There's Singh Ray that has the Vari-N-Dup which has a variable ND system but it quite expensive. And then there's what a lot use, the square filter system which is an investment in itself as it involves purchasing a filter holder, adapter rings for your lenses and square glass or resin filters. Lee and Hitech (Formatt) are the more common square filter manufacturers but plenty others exist.

alankar_123 wrote in post #13090303
Ohh I see!! and typically how much these nd500 and nd1000 filters cost? any brand recomendations?

Thanks!!

For a cheap intro to playing with really strong ND filters, you could take a look at this companion thread:
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=767152

In short: How to make use of dirt-cheap welding filters, in case you can stand the color issues you get from the extremely green filters. The real ND filters have an almost neutral density (which is what ND stands for in the first place) so they are much easier to use. But the problem with prefocusing before adding the filter, computing exposure time, etc will be the same.

Some of the B&W photos in the welding glass thread are very good. Even some photos in color have cleaned up quite well - but with significant skills involved.

Even the expensive ND filters do have a bit of a color cast issues, even if way, way, way less than the welding glass filters. The B+W ND110 filter can't manage as strong filtering of IR as of the visible light, which results in a bit of a magenta cast. The IR filter in the camera is good for normal use, but can't compensate when having a 10-stop ND filter that is a couple of stops weaker for the IR light.

SamHunter wrote in post #13074180

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/samhunter/61296​01174/
Toronto's skyline by SamHunter, on Flickr

amazingly done ..

Thanks

I was playing around with this shot in photoshop and it looks especially awesome if you desaturate the colors; I saw one of the other guys do that to a similar shot!