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Thread started 21 Nov 2009 (Saturday) 12:47
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Post your 9 or 10 stop ND photos

 
pwm2
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Nov 26, 2009 06:25 |  #31

fortisi876 wrote in post #9063974 (external link)
Here's mine, I don't have many nor do I think I'm using it correctly. Am I the only person who seems to get serious vignetting?

The ND filter doesn't have an infinitely thin layer that absorbs the light. So when a flat filter is used with an UWA and the light moves at an angle to the filter for the corners of the image, the light ray will move a longer distance through the absorption layer resulting in extra stops of light loss.


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fortisi876
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Nov 26, 2009 10:58 |  #32

Thank you for that explanation, is there a solution/work around or limit as to what works well, less the vignetting?


Also, Im glad to see other complaining about the various color casts, that's the other issue Im getting with this filter. Those of you sharing those beautiful images w/out the cast, were they out of camera or were they corrected in PP'ing?




  
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moacur
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Nov 26, 2009 12:04 as a reply to  @ fortisi876's post |  #33

HOYA ND 400 (9-stops)

Tiffen 0.6 Grad ND (2-stops)

CPL

2 Minute exposure

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John ­ Hudson
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Nov 26, 2009 12:48 |  #34

I have the B&W 10 stop and 20 stop filters and I've seen the magenta colour cast in a lot of images.

I think B&W advise that the filter does cast. Someone also proposed to me that with the extended exposure times, a greater proportion of infrared light is hitting the sensor and this could be responsible for the cast (and also some softness). I'm not technically proficient enough to understand if this is correct or not, perhaps someone who is could clarify it.

Does anyone know a good method for removing the cast. I've struggled with quite a few shots, changing WB and channel mixer. But I usually end up with something more neutral, but clearly not correct.

John




  
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CameraBuff
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Nov 27, 2009 11:35 as a reply to  @ John Hudson's post |  #35

I found this in the B + W Filter handbook B+W Neutral Density Filter ¡06
This B+W Neutral Density Filter reduces the light by six f-stops. With this filter and without changing the f-stop, a shutter speed of ¡/60 s is changed to a full second, thus requiring the use of a tripod. Flowing water is rendered as flowing in the photo, and people moving in streets are dissolved in unsharpness or become invisible. Because of its higher transmission in the red beyond 660 nm, this filter brings a slightly warm tone to color photographs. If this effect is undesirable,
a B+W UV-/IR-Blocking Filter 486 in front of the neutral density filter (not behind it!) remedies that situation. The filter factor is 64x.
B+W Neutral Density Filter ¡¡0
With a light intensity reduction of ten f-stops, this B+W Neutral Density Filter has a slightly stronger warm tone than the ND ¡06. Its principal field of application
is the observation and documentation of industrial processes with extreme brightness, such as steel furnaces, incinerators, glowing filaments in halogen- and other bulbs. The filter factor is ¡000x.


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John ­ Hudson
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Nov 27, 2009 13:27 |  #36

CameraBuff wrote in post #9091399 (external link)
I found this in the B + W Filter handbook B+W Neutral Density Filter ¡06
This B+W Neutral Density Filter reduces the light by six f-stops. With this filter and without changing the f-stop, a shutter speed of ¡/60 s is changed to a full second, thus requiring the use of a tripod. Flowing water is rendered as flowing in the photo, and people moving in streets are dissolved in unsharpness or become invisible. Because of its higher transmission in the red beyond 660 nm, this filter brings a slightly warm tone to color photographs. If this effect is undesirable,
a B+W UV-/IR-Blocking Filter 486 in front of the neutral density filter (not behind it!) remedies that situation. The filter factor is 64x.
B+W Neutral Density Filter ¡¡0
With a light intensity reduction of ten f-stops, this B+W Neutral Density Filter has a slightly stronger warm tone than the ND ¡06. Its principal field of application
is the observation and documentation of industrial processes with extreme brightness, such as steel furnaces, incinerators, glowing filaments in halogen- and other bulbs. The filter factor is ¡000x.

Thanks for the information. I'll have to have a look around for a 486 filter. I shudder to think how much a 77mm IR filter is going to cost.

John.




  
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Picture ­ North ­ Carolina
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Nov 27, 2009 16:40 |  #37

CameraBuff wrote in post #9091399 (external link)
I found this in the B + W Filter handbook B+W Neutral Density Filter ¡06
This B+W Neutral Density Filter reduces the light by six f-stops. With this filter and without changing the f-stop, a shutter speed of ¡/60 s is changed to a full second, thus requiring the use of a tripod. Flowing water is rendered as flowing in the photo, and people moving in streets are dissolved in unsharpness or become invisible. Because of its higher transmission in the red beyond 660 nm, this filter brings a slightly warm tone to color photographs. If this effect is undesirable,
a B+W UV-/IR-Blocking Filter 486 in front of the neutral density filter (not behind it!) remedies that situation. The filter factor is 64x.
B+W Neutral Density Filter ¡¡0
With a light intensity reduction of ten f-stops, this B+W Neutral Density Filter has a slightly stronger warm tone than the ND ¡06. Its principal field of application
is the observation and documentation of industrial processes with extreme brightness, such as steel furnaces, incinerators, glowing filaments in halogen- and other bulbs. The filter factor is ¡000x.

Interesting. Thanks. What with that warning about IR blocking, I'm now wondering how the filter would behave on a IR converted camera. Maybe boil the sensor and dissolve it? :) ;)


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argyle
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Nov 27, 2009 18:41 |  #38

John Hudson wrote in post #9091939 (external link)
Thanks for the information. I'll have to have a look around for a 486 filter. I shudder to think how much a 77mm IR filter is going to cost.

John.

Try setting a custom white balance or removing the cast in post with a color balance adjustment. I wouldn't slap another expensive filter in front of the 10-stop. Using the 110 and 486, plus a polarizer if you were inclined to use one at the same time, would make for quite the filter sandwich and would be too much of a PITA. Seems like the Singh-Ray Vari-N-Duo would be the better option:

B+W Kaesemann CPL: $170
B+W 486 filter: $180
B+W 110: $100

Adds up to $450 (B&H prices for 77mm filters). The Vari-N-Duo, with a mated warming polarizer, is $390; the Vari-ND (no polarizer) is $340 but you only get 8-stops of reduction due to the lack of polarizer. As I posted elsewhere, I don't see any type of colorcast whatsoever using the Vari-N-Duo at full strength and you don't have to concoct a cumbersome filter sandwich. Just an opinion...


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moacur
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Nov 28, 2009 01:40 as a reply to  @ argyle's post |  #39

Here's another of mine... from this morning...

Hoya ND400 (9-stops)

With CPL...(2-stops?)

and Tiffen 0.6 Grad ND(2-stops)

F/22

46 seconds

No color casts from mine and I stack em :p

Camera white balance does make a huge difference on color casts.. Once I figured out what white balances work with what filters it made a huge difference. Not that this is great.. but..

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Nov 28, 2009 02:22 |  #40

I prefer to deal with WB later, even i can use the custom WB when using those 9-10 ND filters, but i really like those color casts, so you prefer natural color? i did once with natural or better WB, imagine, i changed it and added a color cast to it for more drama or interesting.


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Nov 28, 2009 03:23 |  #41

In the real world,the magenta cast is really unnatural and unacceptable. I can see how it annoys other photogs when they can't even correct the WB.




  
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Nov 28, 2009 03:59 |  #42

jdizzle wrote in post #9094955 (external link)
In the real world,the magenta cast is really unnatural and unacceptable. I can see how it annoys other photogs when they can't even correct the WB.

Yes i know, but Magenta is not what i am talking about, i am talking about another color cast, like red or orange or even blue if i want to add, but ofcourse when i see magenta it is not difficult to remove that color cast by pp.


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John ­ Hudson
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Nov 28, 2009 04:56 |  #43

Does anyone feel like posting their technique for generating a custom WB when using this filter.

I tried once with a grey card, and having to wait extra minutes for a custom WB shot was a bit of a pain, also the results were not good (but this is probably down to poor technique on my part).

Does anyone have a shortcut way to do it?

John.




  
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Dec 04, 2009 14:02 as a reply to  @ John Hudson's post |  #44

Just shot RAW then you don't need to worry about WB


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John ­ Hudson
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Dec 04, 2009 14:08 |  #45

WB alone is not the answer, the cast is not uniform. Principally I suppose it's red channel, but it is variable.




  
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Post your 9 or 10 stop ND photos
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