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Thread started 21 Nov 2009 (Saturday) 12:47
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Post your 9 or 10 stop ND photos

 
Ursyn
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Mar 07, 2016 15:33 |  #7771

MalVeauX wrote in post #17927119 (external link)
Actually, ultrawide angles will do that, even with gentle movement, add to it that it was a 191 seconds (over 3 minutes) and you will get very dramatic blur. Notice it blurs the most towards the edges of the ultrawide where the subject moving through several arc degrees are greater (hence more blur) than the center most points where the change in clouds over arc degrees are not much, so they are hardly blurred. This is why ultrawides blur so nicely at close range and around the edges of the frame, even in short periods of time. Add a bunch of time, and you get dramatic blur.

Very best,

Thank you MalVeaux for detailed explanation.


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MalVeauX
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Post edited over 7 years ago by MalVeauX.
     
Mar 07, 2016 20:23 |  #7772

Haida PRO II Slim 10 Stop

20 seconds:

IMAGE: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1584/25483253062_d1d9e938bb_c.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/EPSk​j7  (external link) IMG_1676 (external link) by Martin Wise (external link), on Flickr

120 seconds:

IMAGE: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1633/24975151363_8a88b32806_c.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/E3Yb​nZ  (external link) IMG_1695 (external link) by Martin Wise (external link), on Flickr

Very best,

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JohnPh
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Post edited over 7 years ago by JohnPh.
     
Mar 08, 2016 08:23 |  #7773

Lovely colours Martin!

xpfloyd wrote in post #17927026 (external link)
Excellent!

Ursyn wrote in post #17927112 (external link)
Top-notch image. I assume that clouds were moving really fast to give such an effect.

MalVeauX wrote in post #17927119 (external link)
Superb!

Actually, ultrawide angles will do that, even with gentle movement, add to it that it was a 191 seconds (over 3 minutes) and you will get very dramatic blur. Notice it blurs the most towards the edges of the ultrawide where the subject moving through several arc degrees are greater (hence more blur) than the center most points where the change in clouds over arc degrees are not much, so they are hardly blurred. This is why ultrawides blur so nicely at close range and around the edges of the frame, even in short periods of time. Add a bunch of time, and you get dramatic blur.

Very best,

Thanks guys :-)


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DCBB ­ Photography
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Mar 08, 2016 15:51 |  #7774

Fantastic looking shots guys!

Here is one I took this morning.

IMAGE: https://cothronphotography.smugmug.com/Landscapes/i-HjvPqCx/0/XL/IMG_12897-160308-XL.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://cothronphotogr​aphy.smugmug.com …97-160308-XL.jpg&lb=1&s=A  (external link) on Smugmug

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Philli_B_123
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Mar 08, 2016 15:55 |  #7775

IMAGE: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1532/25328581080_9e20cab1ec_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/EAcA​HN  (external link) Smokey Sunset (external link) by Phill Berkhout (external link), on Flickr

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Charlie
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Mar 08, 2016 16:34 |  #7776

10 stop haida stacked 64 times? to get me a 5 minute shot

IMAGE: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1534/25552217876_c462421cf3_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/EVXN​9C  (external link) Ghost pier (external link) by Charlie (external link), on Flickr


10 stop nd throttle stacked 32 times to get a 5 minute exposure
IMAGE: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1612/25525869371_ff23d0b051_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/ETCK​E4  (external link) Deserted pier (external link) by Charlie (external link), on Flickr

same pier different perspectives.

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theague
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Mar 08, 2016 17:23 |  #7777

I'm curious what you're achieving by stacking vs just taking a long exposure?


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JohnPh
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Mar 08, 2016 17:28 as a reply to  @ theague's post |  #7778

I read about this today but haven't had chance to try it out yet, looks like an interesting concept though.

http://digital-photography-school.com …sure-with-photo-stacking/ (external link)


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theague
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Mar 08, 2016 17:44 |  #7779

JohnPh wrote in post #17928529 (external link)
I read about this today but haven't had chance to try it out yet, looks like an interesting concept though.

http://digital-photography-school.com …sure-with-photo-stacking/ (external link)

Thanks for that link.

One thing the article does not touch on is gaps. I've done star trail stacking and even in continuous mode there's still a fraction of a second between shots that results in small gaps in the star trail. Wouldn't there be a similar issue with this type of stacking? How would you manage that?


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MalVeauX
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Mar 08, 2016 18:07 |  #7780

theague wrote in post #17928547 (external link)
Thanks for that link.

One thing the article does not touch on is gaps. I've done star trail stacking and even in continuous mode there's still a fraction of a second between shots that results in small gaps in the star trail. Wouldn't there be a similar issue with this type of stacking? How would you manage that?

There are issues if there are significant gaps, such as 30 seconds between a set of clouds. It works great on things that are continuous (like water). But it can be hard on very prominent shaped clouds if you miss a few gaps due to whatever. The method uses averages/mean of the images via opacity layers (it's just automated). So if you miss a few gaps, there will be significant data loss and when you do the layers, it will show up. If it's still pleasing to the eye, that's the real question.

The difference between using a single long exposure and several short exposures comes down to noise recovery, and comes down to recovering from error (doing a single 5 minute exposure for example, or longer, has some serious consequences if something happens and you miss your overall shot in a moment where light isn't lasting long enough to do a re-do; such as a bumped tripod, slipped joint, ground giving way slowly, etc). Using shorter subs gives you the ability to have an error, and it not matter nearly as much, as you just miss some data, not the whole image.

Worth a try if you're trying to avoid using lots of ND filters stacked up and want to go the digital route. Granted, when you make an image this way, it's software manipulation of several exposures. It's not just a single photo--that matters to some people. It also means a lot more actuation on your shutter, if you care about that. For extremely long exposures, it's a more friendly method to do it.

Very best,


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Charlie
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Post edited over 7 years ago by Charlie.
     
Mar 08, 2016 18:34 |  #7781

theague wrote in post #17928524 (external link)
I'm curious what you're achieving by stacking vs just taking a long exposure?

much much smoother water (much longer exposures to mimmick a 16 stop ND), shooting at optimum settings as opposed to F22 to get desirable shutter speeds.

the files are sooo clean after blending them via stack.

here's a 16 stop firecrest

IMAGE: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1612/24858894274_1eb8a9923f_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/DSGk​cq  (external link) Gloomy skies (external link) by Charlie (external link), on Flickr

2.5s stacked 16? dont remember offhand. no issues with cloud stuttering, however you will definitely get stuttering if you do very short exposures, so I'll only use that technique on clouds if I've got a 10 stop with me or in a pinch. It appears seamless when using the technique with filters.
IMAGE: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1562/25395396041_406237458a_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/EG73​tT  (external link) Dusk at the garden (external link) by Charlie (external link), on Flickr

for reference, non stacked image attached to show how unexposed the scene was. I brushed in the light on the bottom.

IMAGE: https://photography-on-the.net/forum/images/hostedphotos_lq/2016/03/2/LQ_780032.jpg
Image hosted by forum (780032) © Charlie [SHARE LINK]
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Panasonic GH6 - Laowa 7.5/2 - PL 15/1.7 - P 42.5/1.8 - OM 75/1.8 - PL 10-25/1.7 - P 12-32 - P 14-140

  
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theague
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Mar 08, 2016 18:52 |  #7782

thank you all for the info, I've learned something new today :)


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Mar 08, 2016 22:41 |  #7783

So when you do these stacks I assume you have to turn off the long exposure noise reduction feature? Is that right?


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MalVeauX
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Mar 08, 2016 22:46 |  #7784

Mesmer wrote in post #17928808 (external link)
So when you do these stacks I assume you have to turn off the long exposure noise reduction feature? Is that right?

Probably,

I use long exposure noise reduction on my 5D because it's an old noisy sensor at this point, and 30 second exposures get it noisy real fast. Thankfully LENR works well enough that I can do a 2 minute exposure (single exposure) with literally no noise, so that old tech works really well. For stacks, this is not an issue if gaps are not an issue--so moving water, will not be an issue. It could be an issue for sporadic clouds though. Or things like that, where there are significant differences per frame, if there are delays.

I'm about to start my work week, but I will do some tests with an old 5Dc with LENR on, and do stacks of 30 second subs in unideal conditions to see if it matters enough. I'll do a 2 minute single exposure to compare it to perhaps. All depends on the light.

Very best,


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theague
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Mar 09, 2016 10:43 as a reply to  @ MalVeauX's post |  #7785

Looking forward to your test images. That's something I'd love to see and will keep an eye on this thread.


- Kody

  
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