Metering Question

Ok ~ this is something that has confused me for a good while. I think I am doing it right, but there are so many variables to photography, I have to ask.

Based on my camera, when looking through the viewfinder I see the information line at the bottom.

When metering for a "correct" exposure; let's say I am using the sky to set the exposure. I should basically be setting my ISO and aperture and then, while pointing the camera to the sky, adjust the shutter speed until the meter dial is showing the dead center...correct?

What you describe is the correct method for getting what the camera thinks is the correct exposure for the sky. You may find through experience that your camera will give better results if you expose a little more or a little less under those conditions.

LowSpark420 wrote in post #9091038
When metering for a "correct" exposure; let's say I am using the sky to set the exposure. I should basically be setting my ISO and aperture and then, while pointing the camera to the sky, adjust the shutter speed until the meter dial is showing the dead center...correct?

If you set the needle dead center while pointed at the sky the camera will have metered to make the sky a middle tone. Unless it is very close to dawn or dusk, the sky is generally not a middle tone, it is a very bright tone.

For mid-day if I was metering the sky I would probably set the needle to something close to +2 stops. If you set it to -0- the sky will look dull and the objects on the ground will be very dark verging on black.

LowSpark420 wrote in post #9091038
Ok ~ this is something that has confused me for a good while. I think I am doing it right, but there are so many variables to photography, I have to ask.

Based on my camera, when looking through the viewfinder I see the information line at the bottom.

When metering for a "correct" exposure; let's say I am using the sky to set the exposure. I should basically be setting my ISO and aperture and then, while pointing the camera to the sky, adjust the shutter speed until the meter dial is showing the dead center...correct?

If that is how you are metering, you might as well let the camera do it.

My way (not neccesarily the right way) is get a metering of the sky. Then same for the shadows. Decide on the important aspect of your shot and then make the decision of what to use depending on whether exposing that correctly will lose the highlights or shadows.

You meter can (and will be) misled by bright or dark objects. Meter on them at your peril.

That all makes sense - I just wanted to make sure that "technically" dead center on the meter scale (whether doing it yourself or letting the camera do it) is dead center.

LowSpark420 wrote in post #9091810
That all makes sense - I just wanted to make sure that "technically" dead center on the meter scale (whether doing it yourself or letting the camera do it) is dead center.

Technically, 'dead center' simply indicates that reading which the camera meter wants to render 18% overall average brightness, for the things seen within metering zone(s) selected!

That is one of the fundamental flaws of any in-camera meter. If the object in the metering zone is white, the meter will show an exposure which makes that white item to be 18% gray in the shot. If the object in the metering zone is black, the meter will show an exposure which makes that black item to be 18% gray in the shot. If the object in the metering zone is 80% light gray, the meter will show an exposure which makes that 80% gray item to be 18% gray in the shot.

Using the sky to take a reading can be a good surrogate for an average scene in bright sunlight. It is a poor surrogate for an average scene in the shade, too.
Metering an overcast sky can also give you a very erroneous reading! For example, right now the sky at my location is overcast and ISO 400 1/125 reads f/32...an incident light meter gives a reading of f/8, 4EV error if you use the sky reading.

This is what I use:
Need an exposure crutch?
Why?
Post #47