interior photography

hi all,

I mainly use my camera for snapping my work, which is interior design - for my portfolio. I want the photos to look professional but not sure what Im missing.

Want to get better but can find any info (well much info)....

I use a Manifroto tripod which allows me to have long exposure if needed.
With a cable release so I dont move the cam.
10-22 Lens off course
And a 350D camera

Cheers.....

Post some examples to let us see what you are achieving and we will be able to help better.

get good at HDR photography...
Taking 3 exposures (or more) of the room... blend them using an HDR program and it takes the best of the highlights and the best of the shadows and makes all the detail come alive.
Just dont overprocess and you'll get the fantastic results you're looking for.
HDR makes interior photography really pop in my opinion... Especially with shots where windows show a nice view etc....

hdr - i that a software name?

Anyway Thanks all. I will post up some images ASAP.

HDR=High-Dynamic Range

For interior photography, you will need to take multiple exposures and merge them in PP software (ie. Photoshop).

You need to know how to bracket your shots and use exposure compensation (EC) properly. If I recall w/ the XT, when you bracket your shots, you are limited to a range from -3 to +3.

Something you'll also have to deal w/ is barrel distortion w/ the 10-22. A lot of high end interior photographers use TS-E lenses. Those keep the focal plane intact. Those are expensive lenses, though.

Post up some samples of your work.

Hi All,

Here are 2 typical shots. The ceilinglights are a bit too white but even on other exposures they still look white.

What about the overall quality?

All I do is record the design, but what more can I do?

I have never used exposure bracketing but it only does +-2 stops on the 350D. I usualy end up taking 8 or so shots up and down the exposure stops to make sure I cover all bases. But I am often in a rush due to work pressures...

Regards,

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#1 seems a bit underexposed a bit to me and is tilting enough to the right to be noticeable. #2 looks a lot better.

I like that in #1 you shot early enough to keep some detail in the windows.

It looks as if you needed it in #1. Lens F-Number / F-Stop = 5/1 ===> ƒ/5 just isn't enough for that shot.
DOF for Architecture

The thing you have to remember is to not tilt the camera, & to keep the back vertical to avoid keystoning.
What is Keystoning

Canon on distortion, lighting, panos, HDR...: Effective Real Estate Photography

Photographing Bathrooms, Bedrooms (Pg 2), Hallways (Pg 3), Living Rooms (pg 4), etc.

More links:

Interior Photography - what camera and lens

Starting Architectural Photography - 6 pages

How to Photograph Architecture (Exterior)

Various techniques for modifying the light:
Hotel room photography - Tips?

Trouble shooting a white kitchen

Is Architectural Photography really for me?

Wow - I need to read a bit on DOF.

How can you tell the F stop in image 1. ?

Is f22 big or small - i always get confused. HEHE

Thanks for your help BTW

syburn wrote in post #9127904
Wow - I need to read a bit on DOF.

How can you tell the F stop in image 1. ?

Is f22 big or small - i always get confused. HEHE

Thanks for your help BTW

Here's an online DoF calculator. Might come in handy. I know that there's a DoF calculator for the iPhone as well.

f/22 is a small aperture and f/1.2 is a large aperture. It's backwards, but that's science for ya.

I know that DOF can create effects where the fore ground in sharp and the back is blurred, but I cant see this effect in my above shots.

Whats the all the fuss about, (im sure there is a fuss its just that I have not seen it yet)

Also I read in a mag, that DOF is not to important when using a wide angle lens.

Exif Viewer

You still have to focus on the right spot for the maximum effect.

So I think I need a tape measure and one of thoughs DOF calculators.

And a spirit level somehow attached to my camera/tripod setup.

Thanks

Photosguy -
Does that mean it should be f4 or wider? Cos if you mean like f16 then it definately would need a tripod cos the apperture would be so small and then would that mean lots of DOF with blurred items. (just thinking out loud with my new knowledge!)

f/4 is more wide open than the f/5 you used. I wouldn't have focused on the near chair, & would probably have used f/11.

If you're, "snapping my work, which is interior design- for my portfolio. I want the photos to look professional", and you ALREADY HAVE a Manfrotto, then why wouldn't you bother to use it? This stuff isn't rocket science?