Hockey 7D with 70-200 2.8 IS

All shot in manual mode 1/500 f/2.8 ISO1600

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Nice pics - Green #5 looks like a player. I like the last two. I wonder what the next shot would show? Did the goalie give up a juicy rebound ?

Green #5 gets into most of the photos because he is my 12 year old son.

There was no juicy rebound shot.... Here are the next 6 at 8fps straight out of the camera (no processing) .....

Nice shots Mike. It appears that most of these were shot from above the glass but were there a few you shot through the glass? Is the tint I see in some of these from the lights cycling?

Jeff

No, they were all shot above the glass.

Yes, there is lots of color changes from the cycling lights. I try to correct the color if I can, or I just don't use the bad ones.

Oh I HATE those cycling lights. Red/cyan/neutral/red/c​yan/neutral. YUCK.

drisley wrote in post #9192479
Oh I HATE those cycling lights. Red/cyan/neutral/red/c​yan/neutral. YUCK.

I call these "Christmas Tree" arenas because when you look at your thumbnail images on screen you have a nice sequence of red, blue, yellow, green, white, red, blue,...etc. I have found that whether you use AWB or a custom WB in these rinks, the results vary, so I usually just use Auto and correct as needed in post.

As to images themselves, try and crop finished product a bit tighter (eg goalie in #8/9) to remove extra background. Also watch out for cutting off of feet and sticks (eg 11).

As to angles, above glass is nice as you avoid glass issues (dirt, exposure, etc) but it does not provide for capturing good facial expressions. Try and find clean glass to shoot through (usually the 4 inches right above the boards is cleanest, plus it give a nice low POV) and shoot up the ice as the players come to you for some good angles (EXAMPLE)

Other than cycling of colors, light in rink looks great, especially if you are at 1600 ISO. In our main rink, I can get 3200 and 1/400 f2.8 if lucky and need to add exposure in post.

Cheers!

Chris

Nice photos.

So, overall are you happy with the 7D for youth hockey? I'm shooting with a 20D and I'm really looking at the upgrade for bantam and midget aged hockey. Have you seen an increase in the keeper rate due to improved focus capabilities? I'm really conflicted if I should go ahead for the upgrade or not since the 20D does the job.

The 7D is the first crop since the 20D that I think has a substantial improvement over my previous camera to make the upgrade worth while - to me at least.

We were in Trail BC this past weekend and my photos all have the same "Christmas tree lighting" challenge. Two weeks ago in Abbortsford, every overhead light in the arena seemed to be a different color, even without the cycling.

thanks and enjoy the rinks.

I have only shot one game so far and haven't really noticed a big difference in "keeper Rate" from my 40D. One area where I have noticed an improvement is that 7D ISO 3200 noise is similar to ISO 1600 on my 40D. And of course the 8fps.....

Thank Mike. Better ISO noise alone might be enough to pull the trigger for the 7D. At some rinks around here I don't even bother to get the camera out of the bag. Cave would be too nice a word. Looking at your photos again may be enough to make me go for the 7D. I'd love to shoot above 1/400 sec and not have excessive noise due to pushing ISO so high. I've tried the 85mm 1.8, but I have not gotten anything worthwhile. The 70-200 2.8 on the 7D seems to be the right combo for hockey.

It would be great if you could share some more photos for future games.

thanks
joe

trick lighting.
thanks for sharing

I've found hockey at our venue hard to shoot. You've done a good job despite the lighting.Good job

Here are some more from today's game. EXIF intact.

All AWB, ISO 1600 (no extra noise filtering), 1/400 f/3.2 ( except last one is f/2.8 )

I think I have some motion blur in photo #5, so next week I will go back to 1/500 at f/2.8

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Even with the bit of motion blur, #5 is a good shot. Same rink?

Just to make you a little jealous, I shot Squirt and Pee Wee games this weekend - with a polarizing filter ISO 400, f/4 and 1/500 (and faster).