Light Meter or No? (Sekonic L358)

I've been looking at getting a light meter or something to help me learn the whole lighting process and measure exposure. This is the light meter I've been looking at http://www.robertsimag​ing.com …20Meters/Sekoni​c/L358.jsp . How exactly do I use a light meter?

Also, I've heard this meter works with Pocket Wizards, but I don't know what it actually does. Does it work as a wireless trigger?

Thanks,

-Jon

That is a great meter and a good light meter is something anyone working with OCF should have. There is a pocketwzard module you can add to the meter or buy with it already in. If you use pocketwizards then you can trigger the flashes with the meter to take readings though you can always just hold one of your PW in your hand when you have the meter and trigger them that way. If you do a search in this forum for light meters and ever the L358 you will find quite a few threads with a wealth of information.

Its a great midrange flashmeter. Does all you would want it to for a great price.

I recently borrowed a friend's L358 just to play with it, thinking I wouldn't get that much use out of it. Ended up liking it so much I bought one of my own. I use it on every shoot.

The Sekonic L-358 and L-758DR have become industry standards among professionals and those that require consistent and accurate exposure. They also offer the ability to trigger Pocket Wizards right from the meter.

The L-358 is an excellent meter for almost every application with the exception of taking reflective spot meter readings and then the L-758DR shines.

Keep in mind that the light meter isn't just for metering exposure from a single light source but is used to help establish proper ratios between multiple strobes, determine the percentage of flash to ambient light, and in critical and print work it will keep you from clipping highlights or burying shadows in black.

The meter will also allow you to achieve consistent results when doing a series of shots that need that consistency. An example of that is if you were doing catalog work and the client determined that they liked the look of a background that is 1 1/2 stops under the subject exposure. Using a meter you can make sure that every shot with every model in every location has that same 1 1/2 stop difference between subject and background ambient exposure.

I use my Sekonic L-358 far more than the meter built into my 20D - probably a 95:5 ratio, and that includes outdoor work as well as studio work. The camera is almost always set to "M" (manual exposure).

TMR Design wrote in post #9197032
The Sekonic L-358 and L-758DR have become industry standards among professionals and those that require consistent and accurate exposure. They also offer the ability to trigger Pocket Wizards right from the meter.

The L-358 is an excellent meter for almost every application with the exception of taking reflective spot meter readings and then the L-758DR shines.

Keep in mind that the light meter isn't just for metering exposure from a single light source but is used to help establish proper ratios between multiple strobes, determine the percentage of flash to ambient light, and in critical and print work it will keep you from clipping highlights or burying shadows in black.

The meter will also allow you to achieve consistent results when doing a series of shots that need that consistency. An example of that is if you were doing catalog work and the client determined that they liked the look of a background that is 1 1/2 stops under the subject exposure. Using a meter you can make sure that every shot with every model in every location has that same 1 1/2 stop difference between subject and background ambient exposure.

Rob not to hijack the thread or anything but you can get the 358 without the PW right? I am thinking of retiring my old Minolta IV for a 358 but am using all Elinchrom gear with skyports and don't want to pay for PW support if I don't have to.

B&Wlover wrote in post #9197103
Rob not to hijack the thread or anything but you can get the 358 without the PW right? I am thinking of retiring my old Minolta IV for a 358 but am using all Elinchrom gear with skyports and don't want to pay for PW support if I don't have to.

You absolutely can get an L-358 without the Pocket Wizard radio transmitter module.

Another option is a used L558R. It does have the PW module, which you may not need, but more importantly, it has the 1 degree reflective spot metering. That's a really nice feature depending on the work you're doing.

Used prices on L-558R's are VERY good when you can find one.

TMR Design wrote in post #9197124
Another option is a used L558R. It does have the PW module, which you may not need, but more importantly, it has the 1 degree reflective spot metering. That's a really nice feature depending on the work you're doing.

Used prices on L-558R's are VERY good when you can find one.

Any suggestions on where to look to find one.

B&Wlover wrote in post #9197189
Any suggestions on where to look to find one.

Calumet, ebay, ... I would just try any and every camera store you can find.

I just bought a L-358 today....I have already noticed it has cut down on my post processing time. I also dont have to take a ton of shots to see if I am ever in the ballbark of a perfect exposure. My camera Lies to me! I would highly recommend it.

Mike Condax wrote in post #9198975
I just bought a L-358 today....I have already noticed it has cut down on my post processing time. I also dont have to take a ton of shots to see if I am ever in the ballbark of a perfect exposure. My camera Lies to me! I would highly recommend it.

Exactly Mike. Many people import their images to the computer and the first thing they do is to make exposure adjustments to compensate for what didn't happen in-camera.

Once you know how to take readings of different types of subjects in different light you'll find that you nail it or come darn close, and usually much closer than if you let the camera make those decisions for you.

My light meter goes everywhere with me and helps me with precise exposure when the camera would be fooled or make an incorrect assessment or suggestion.