Metering for backlighting

I've been taking bird shots around my area and I'm having exposure problems. For a bird in flight, setting in a tree or on a post etc how do I keep the image from being over exposed?

I'm using a D300 anf I usually shoot in TV mode or manual. The camera always seems to be metering on the sky rather than the bird. How do I overcome this?

a few ways - i use this technique for aircraft
1) meter the ground {grass or concrete} in the same direction as the bird
2) meter you hand in same direction as bird
3) use spot metering - i think you have partial metering on the 300D which will meter 9% of the viewfinder.
4) bracket - take 3 shots at different settings - dont know the 300D - but some cameras have this automatically - so you press the shutter and the camera takes 3 photos

The solution is Exposure Lock or Exposure Compensation. Exposure Bracketing takes three shots: one with +EC, one at nuetral EC, and one at -EC. You specify how much +/- EC to apply.
The 300D Owners Manual provides excellent instruction for using each feature.

I have the same problem with the exposure, for bird in flight. The bird in my pictures mostly comes out underexposed, whereas the sky is overexposed. I shoot 99% in Av mode.
I'm not familiar with AE lock * but i think it is the solution to my problem. I just re-read the 300D manual last nite. This is what i'm gonna try:

1. Half-press the shutter to meter the bird (in flight). I believe at this point, 300D is using evaluative metering. So the bird is likely to be underexposed, esp when it is far away.

2. The press the AE lock * to lock the exposure metered earlier.

3. And quickly aim at the bird and press the AE lock * again to re-meter the subject because AE lock * allows 300D switch to partial metering.

Guys, let me know if this won't work, or if u have better method/explanation. Thanks.

cfc

since the rebel doesn't have selectable metering modes you can just shoot in manual and use the histograms to judge your exposures. God bless digital SLRs

But...but....but.... shooting birds of prey allows no chance of any chimping.

cmM wrote:
since the rebel doesn't have selectable metering modes you can just shoot in manual and use the histograms to judge your exposures. God bless digital SLRs

No it doesn't have a "switch" per se, but using exposure lock sets the camera to partial in creative modes. In M, metering is center weighted. All other modes are evaluative. See p. 84 in the manual.

I know, that's why i said "selectable". I have read the manual.

you wouldn't wanna use ae lock when shooting birds of prey either. And what if you change your frame? When using telephoto lenses if you move the lens one inch in a direction it might completely change your light, so there goes the accuracy of partial metering.

cfcRebel, you don't have to chimp after each shot. Just do it until you get it right. I'd also shoot RAW for a little more flexibility.

The point of AE Lock is that you can recompose without affecting the exposure metered off the object you want properly exposed. That is why the camera switches from evaluative to partial. What is the point of using it if you aren't going to change the frame? Unless the subject happens to fall in the center focus point. It is used when you want to override the accuracy of evaluative metering. This may be comprehended on p.78. I use this pretty frequently on sunny days. It works well when your subject contrasts greatly from the background, or there is a mixed lighting situation.

I appreciate the information from both of you. I'll try it out and see which one actually solves my problem. Thanks guys.

What I'm talking about is a entirely different frame. Pick up a 400mm lens and see how easy it is to shift.
Unless you missed it, he's shooting birds.
Find me another birder who frames, AE lock, recomposes, and then shooots.
There's no time for that.

I agree it would be a challenge for a bird in flight, with a 400mm, but on a post, in a tree, or in my case the bird feeder or the bird bath with a 300mm, it beats chimping the histogram. By the time you processed the info and setup fore the next shot the bird would be gone. Here is what I do: take a normal shot and then quickly get the bird in the center, half squeeze and hold the shutter for focus, hit the * button with my thumb, and recompose and shoot. Only takes an instant. If you dork it up, you still have the original shot. It takes practice, but it does work.
And we all forgot the obvious advice here: shoot RAW now. Fix exposure later.