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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 25 Dec 2009 (Friday) 21:51
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Metering with flash etc

 
AmandaMarie
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Dec 25, 2009 21:51 |  #1

Okay so I am very overwhelmed with my new lighting system. It's a pair of 200w calumet genesis lights. I am going to get a hot shoe adapter and use one pc cord for one light and then use the other as a slave.

My issue is, I have never used studio lighting before so I'm at a loss as to what mode to shoot in. Av, Tv, M? How do I know what to set my iso at? Aperture? I can't meter I guess. I really need some direction here before I have a britney spears sized meltdown.

:confused:


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Austin.Manny
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Dec 25, 2009 22:06 |  #2

Some pros will come and help you out, but for a very basic rundown:

Set camera in M
Set shutter to sync speed (1/200 or 1/250 depending on camera model)
Set aperture to desired f/stop (or just start at f/5.6)
Set ISO to 100
Take Test Shot
If underexposed, up the ISO or open the aperture (shutter speed has no effect on flash as long as you stay within sync speed)
If overexposed, vice-versa.

Btw, nice initials. :D


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gonzogolf
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Dec 25, 2009 22:07 |  #3

You have to shoot in manual as there is no communication between the lights and your camera. (other than a fire signal through the sync). Start out with your camera at 1/160 and your aperture at f8. Use your histrogram to see where you need to adjust from there.,




  
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AmandaMarie
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Dec 25, 2009 22:11 |  #4

Okay. So basically any TTL metering is out of the question... I'll have to rely on my histogram/test shots then...


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gonzogolf
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Dec 25, 2009 22:13 |  #5

AmandaMarie wrote in post #9263684 (external link)
Okay. So basically any TTL metering is out of the question... I'll have to rely on my histogram/test shots then...

Yep, no auto feature whatsoever.




  
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AmandaMarie
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Dec 25, 2009 22:14 |  #6

Okay. Good to know. This kind of alleviates a lot of my anxiety. So I'll get the hot shoe adapter and be good to go.

Phew.


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gonzogolf
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Dec 25, 2009 22:17 |  #7

A sekonic L-358 Light meter would be a good next purchase. Save you some time chimping.




  
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scotch
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Dec 25, 2009 22:19 |  #8

gonzogolf wrote in post #9263719 (external link)
A sekonic L-358 Light meter would be a good next purchase. Save you some time chimping.

The gent speaks sense. Picked up the slightly cheaper L308s here, waiting for it to arrive!




  
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AmandaMarie
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Dec 25, 2009 22:21 |  #9

Yeah, I definitely think this will be my next investment.


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scotch
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Jan 19, 2010 17:47 |  #10

On that note - it came today. It's great, although Shutter-Priority only...but don't let that put you off as it reads sheer Exposure Value too, which you can work out with an exposure table.




  
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matrix311
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Jan 20, 2010 13:12 |  #11

Austin.Manny wrote in post #9263663 (external link)
Some pros will come and help you out, but for a very basic rundown:

Set camera in M
Set shutter to sync speed (1/200 or 1/250 depending on camera model)
Set aperture to desired f/stop (or just start at f/5.6)
Set ISO to 100
Take Test Shot
If underexposed, up the ISO or open the aperture (shutter speed has no effect on flash as long as you stay within sync speed)
If overexposed, vice-versa.

Btw, nice initials. :D

Great information. I'm also new to off camera flash photography and i'm using the 40D with a 430EX strobe. Would i keep my speeds around 1/200 or 1/250 as well for my setup? I'm using cybersyncs as my wireless trigger system. My primary lens is the 24-70 f/2.8 L. Would I stay around 5.6 or move closer to 2.8?


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gonzogolf
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Jan 20, 2010 13:26 |  #12

matrix311 wrote in post #9434138 (external link)
Great information. I'm also new to off camera flash photography and i'm using the 40D with a 430EX strobe. Would i keep my speeds around 1/200 or 1/250 as well for my setup? I'm using cybersyncs as my wireless trigger system. My primary lens is the 24-70 f/2.8 L. Would I stay around 5.6 or move closer to 2.8?

Pick the shutter speed and aperture you want based on creative reasons. The faster shutter speed means you get less contribution from the existing light. Slower shutter speed means more, so adjust them to balance the flash with the existing in the manner you want. Aperture is the same, pick what you want based on depth of field. The remaining wildcards are flash power and ISO. Adjust the flash so that it exposes properly at the aperture you select. If the flash doesnt have enough power to do that then up the ISO.




  
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matrix311
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Jan 20, 2010 14:42 |  #13

great thanks for the info


Eric Schlaht - Phoenix Arizona Photographer
http://www.esimaging.n​et (external link) - http://esimaging.blogs​pot.com (external link) - http://www.facebook.co​m/esimaging (external link)
Canon 7D, 40D, 24-70mm f/2.8L, 70-200mm f/4 IS, 85mm f/1.8, 50mm f/1.8, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8, Kenko Tubes, White Lightning X800's, 430EX, Yongnuo YN-468 and Cybersync's.

  
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Metering with flash etc
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