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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 27 Dec 2009 (Sunday) 13:08
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How to get proper exposure with no light meter?

 
majin ­ tcz
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Dec 27, 2009 13:08 |  #1

My question is how do I figure out what aperture I'm supposed to set my camera to in a multi light setup with no light meter.

I wont be able to get my hands on a L-358 for a month or so.


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Wilt
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Dec 27, 2009 13:15 |  #2

Pick one, like picking winning numbers on the roulette table!

Unlike roulette, you can use histogram to help you dial in via repeated trial and error.


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RT ­ McAllister
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Dec 27, 2009 13:43 |  #3

What kind of external lights are you talking about?

If they're strobes (like the 430ex) then just use that 580ex in ETTL mode with the 430(s) as slaves. Put your camera in manual, choose whatever creative exposure settings you desire and fire away. The ETTL will compensate for ambient light and fill in accordingly.




  
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jeromego
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Dec 27, 2009 13:51 |  #4

RT McAllister wrote in post #9271029 (external link)
What kind of external lights are you talking about?

If they're strobes (like the 430ex) then just use that 580ex in ETTL mode with the 430(s) as slaves. Put your camera in manual, choose whatever creative exposure settings you desire and fire away. The ETTL will compensate for ambient light and fill in accordingly.

Canon's ETTL system can be so inconsistent some times. I would suggest using the histogram (chimp and shoot).


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RT ­ McAllister
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Dec 27, 2009 14:32 |  #5

jeromego wrote in post #9271073 (external link)
Canon's ETTL system can be so inconsistent some times. I would suggest using the histogram (chimp and shoot).

Yes, in a studio setting with all kinds of time but kind of hard to do at a live event.




  
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dmward
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Dec 27, 2009 17:35 |  #6

there is a page on my tutorial site that describes how I fine tune exposure using a Color Checker.
Similar technique using a white paper towel will work as well.


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trevorus
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Dec 27, 2009 17:37 |  #7

Histogram is generally the easiest with quick results.


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majin ­ tcz
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Dec 27, 2009 19:58 |  #8

I'm using Alien Bees. I was hoping there was a mathematical way of doing it or something besides chimp and shoot. But if that is the only way then I guess I will do that.


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Patrick
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Dec 27, 2009 20:47 as a reply to  @ majin tcz's post |  #9

If you're using AB lights check out the Cybercommander. I upgraded my old receivers the the "+" units, bought the Cybercommander, and came in around the same price as the Sekonic meter I was looking at.
While I'm sure the Sekonic meters are better at metering than the Cybercommander, since that's all their designed to do, I now have metering and the ability to make changes to my lighting setup remotely.
It sure beats all of the running around changing light settings.


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Damian75
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Dec 28, 2009 08:51 |  #10

What is the aversion to using a light meter? Just get one and make your life easier not to mention looking more professional when shooting events, shooting and chimping to get exposure correct looks very amateurish and does not instill confidence from your client.


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Wilt
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Dec 28, 2009 13:20 |  #11

majin tcz wrote in post #9272878 (external link)
I'm using Alien Bees. I was hoping there was a mathematical way of doing it or something besides chimp and shoot. But if that is the only way then I guess I will do that.

Flashes often come with a stated Guide Number. This assumes the standard reflector and full power setting. Once you depart from the standard reflector (umbrella or softbox, for example) the provided guide number is no longer valid. And lower power setting are similarly not valid for that provided guide number.

Example: Guide Number at full power = 200, guide number at 1/2 power = 140, guide number at 1/4 power = 100, guide number at 1/8 power = 70

Guide Number = f/stop * light-to-subject distance


To not use a meter = waste of your client's time!!!


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B&Wlover
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Dec 28, 2009 16:15 |  #12

Wilt wrote in post #9276823 (external link)
To not use a meter = waste of your client's time!!!

++1




  
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bobbyz
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Dec 28, 2009 16:40 |  #13

Chuck Gerdner's white towel method:

http://forums.dpreview​.com …rum=1025&messag​e=20168236 (external link)


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111t
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Dec 28, 2009 22:06 as a reply to  @ bobbyz's post |  #14

I like the photovision target. Check my sig. With a little practice you can set up multi camera light setups easily. Some people on POTN seem to think that using something like this is overly tedious. I don't see how it's any more tedious than using a light meter. It's just what you're used to doing. If you don't have a light meter, then I'm guessing you're not set in your ways. I would suggest giving this a try. If you decide to buy i would recommend searching around to find a better price than the actual photovision site. Check adorama.

Check the video on the photovision site for more info.


All The best!
-Paul

WHAT TO DO IF YOU DON"T HAVE A LIGHT METER AND YOU STILL WANT TO MAKE INTELLIGENT EXPOSURE DECISIONS.

  
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Wilt
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Dec 28, 2009 22:09 |  #15

111t wrote in post #9280096 (external link)
I like the photovision target. Check my sig. With a little practice you can set up multi camera light setups easily. Some people on POTN seem to think that using something like this is overly tedious. I don't see how it's any more tedious than using a light meter.

Check the video on the photovision site for more info.

Anything that takes more than 3-5 seconds (which is the amount of time to use a meter with a studio flash and get a perfect exposure measurement) is too tedious and time consuming when there is a paying client waiting for you. BTW, I do own a Photovision, but it is never used for studio flash because the meter is better and faster.


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How to get proper exposure with no light meter?
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