Just a reminder about stacking and it's purpose.
Stacking frames increases signal to noise, this is important if you're shooting at very high ISO values (or gain values depending on camera type) which reduces dynamic range. This allows you to recover shadow areas and some mid-tone areas that normally would be swamped with noise as you slightly under-expose those areas, or heavily under-expose those areas, due to preventing highlight clipping. This greatly depends on the phase of the moon obviously, but you don't want to clip highlights as that's losing data, but it generally costs you a lot of information lost in shadows and mid-tones near the terminator, again, depending on the phase of the moon. Stacking helps here so that when you lift shadows or increase midtones (such as with levels), it doesn't break apart into artifact and horrible noise, as the signal to noise radio is increased and the resulting dynamic range allows more processing limits. Stacking increases by the square root of the number of images in the stack. This means you have to stack a lot of frames for this to really help. Stacking 100 frames will net you 10 times the signal to noise. Not everyone wants to put that kind of mileage, or more, on their mechanical shutter. Keep that in mind. If you use your SLR in video mode, you can avoid the mechanical shutter.
Stacking also reduces random noise. It doesn't reduce static noise (static noise, or signal, is increased!). This is a great benefit for high resolution imagers. However, for most full disc imagers, this isn't a big deal because you're not having to use incredible amounts of high ISO (or gain) to achieve your exposures. But, that said, decreasing random noise is still a benefit in general. Keep in mind.
There are side effects to stacking. The more you stack, the more blur you introduce. Each frame is going to be slightly different, even when aligned. So you will induce blurring. Stacking a ton more, to increase signal to noise and reduce random noise will result in a very blurry image. This is where deconvolution comes in. Don't just try to sharpen these blurred images with typical sharpening techniques in Photoshop or an equivalent. You need to use something that can do deconvolution instead. Then, after that, do whatever sharpening routines you prefer to do. Software that can do this that is free include IMPPG (google it up, great software, simple to use). So that's the trade off. This is why you will often see a "sharper" image (which really just means higher contrast) from a single shot, but it may have more noise and be more difficult to process, compared to a more blurry stacked image (less contrast), but it will have more latitude for processing.
By the way, on the subject of sharpening, you can use your histogram to know if you've over-sharpened. Look for clipping highlights. If you have clipping highlights that are white and have no data, you've gone too far.
Just throwing it out there, because frankly, stacking and all this with still images from a dSLR at lower ISO values (already quite clean with plenty of dynamic range) for full disc, non-mosaics, is introducing more blur than not. And unless you're really pushing the histogram and lifting shadows in the craters, depending on the phase of course, you're not going to get much from this. This really is used more for higher resolution imaging, where you have amplified (noisy) signals and a lot more blur (due to seeing).