The Official Shoot the Moon Thread

At 1200mm even the slightest wind can induce blur, which could be mistaken for a focus issue. Not saying this is what happened here, but something to consider.

golfecho wrote in post #19472431
At 1200mm even the slightest wind can induce blur, which could be mistaken for a focus issue. Not saying this is what happened here, but something to consider.

Understood, but as I recall there wasn't really any wind. And several other shots are definitely not in focus. Next time I might try focusing via the view finder instead of live view. I also may try turning IS back on. I had read that when shooting with a tripod you shouldn't use it and this was the first time I had done that, but I hadn't noticed a problem previously.

I also think I'm am going to play around with shooting @600 w/o the teleconverter. That way I can do some with manual focus and some with auto to do some testing.

hobs1466 wrote in post #19472423
Weather and timing finally cooperated to get some shots of a young crescent. I'm finding the the site I use to get exposure recommendations tends to overexpose with this lens/teleconverter. And I definitely need practice with the manual focus.

Hosted photo: posted by hobs1466 in
./showthread.php?p=194​72423&i=i84699231
forum: Astronomy & Celestial

I have the same camera and Sigma lens. Are you using the Sigma 2.0 extender? That is what I use. I do not try to manual focus, I use automatic focus and do get better images than what you got here. Are you hand holding or use a tripod? I ALWAYS use a tripod.

HTH (Hope This Helps)

Inspeqtor wrote in post #19472476
I have the same camera and Sigma lens. Are you using the Sigma 2.0 extender? That is what I use. I do not try to manual focus, I use automatic focus and do get better images than what you got here. Are you hand holding or use a tripod? I ALWAYS use a tripod.

HTH (Hope This Helps)

Using a tripod and the sigma 2x teleconverter. I was manual focusing because with the teleconverter on it seems like it will only autofocus at the 150mm end. I'll have to try it again.

hobs1466 wrote in post #19472515
Using a tripod and the sigma 2x teleconverter. I was manual focusing because with the teleconverter on it seems like it will only autofocus at the 150mm end. I'll have to try it again.

Try using live view for auto-focus, if you haven't done so already.

hobs1466 wrote in post #19472515
Using a tripod and the sigma 2x teleconverter. I was manual focusing because with the teleconverter on it seems like it will only autofocus at the 150mm end. I'll have to try it again.

In my experience better not to use Image Stabilization, turn it off even if you shooting handheld. When you press shutter - IS kicks in and blurring your image for a fraction of a second. For manual focusing I use live view and 10X magnification on the camera screen aiming at the brightest star on the sky, rotating focus ring back and forth and making it as small as possible and locking focus ring (Sigma 150-600mm). On other lenses I did same procedure and locking focus ring with finger long electric tape across the focus ring.
Hope it will help some.

hobs1466 wrote in post #19472440
Understood, but as I recall there wasn't really any wind. And several other shots are definitely not in focus. Next time I might try focusing via the view finder instead of live view. I also may try turning IS back on. I had read that when shooting with a tripod you shouldn't use it and this was the first time I had done that, but I hadn't noticed a problem previously.

I also think I'm am going to play around with shooting @600 w/o the teleconverter. That way I can do some with manual focus and some with auto to do some testing.

I use my 7D2 with 100-400L (IS on) and a 2x teleconverter, handheld.
I focus with viewfinder and by live view, but, I zoom in on live view....

Example:

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/2iLq​59T

I also converted this to Black and White.

P.

For those not in the southern hemisphere, note the 'man in the moon' looks more like Micky mouse here...

Slagrim wrote in post #19472549
In my experience better not to use Image Stabilization, turn it off even if you shooting handheld. When you press shutter - IS kicks in and blurring your image for a fraction of a second. For manual focusing I use live view and 10X magnification on the camera screen aiming at the brightest star on the sky, rotating focus ring back and forth and making it as small as possible and locking focus ring (Sigma 150-600mm). On other lenses I did same procedure and locking focus ring with finger long electric tape across the focus ring.
Hope it will help some.

I tried the live view zoom in once before for manual focusing. Seemed like it lost the "live" part when I zoomed the screen. Maybe my imagination, I'll have to try it again.

hobs1466 wrote in post #19472668
I tried the live view zoom in once before for manual focusing. Seemed like it lost the "live" part when I zoomed the screen. Maybe my imagination, I'll have to try it again.

I always use Live View when shooting the Moon!!

Okay, so I did some experimenting this morning and discovered a couple of things.

First, I figured out how to manually focus while zoomed in live view. I think the reason that I thought it didn't work was because I didn't realize there was a physical button to do the zoom. I thought you did it on the screen, but since I had the touch shutter still configured touching the screen took a picture. Then when I zoomed I was actually just zooming in on the picture that was jus shot, so obviously focusing would have not effect.

Second, I found that AF actually does work with the teleconverter, as long as I am in live view. I first thought that it didn't like that I am configured for back button AF, but even putting AF back onto the shutter button had no effect. Viewfinder AF works fine with just the Sigma 150-600, but it doesn't seem to like the Sigma teleconverter. I had done my original testing with the view finder because that is how I shoot with the exception of astrophotography, so I just assumed it didn't work and never tried it in live view. Which is fine because astrophotography is pretty much the only time I will use the teleconverter as well.

Thanks to everyone for suggestions that prompted me to do more testing! Looking forward to another go...

hobs1466 wrote in post #19472717
Okay, so I did some experimenting this morning and discovered a couple of things.

First, I figured out how to manually focus while zoomed in live view. I think the reason that I thought it didn't work was because I didn't realize there was a physical button to do the zoom. I thought you did it on the screen, but since I had the touch shutter still configured touching the screen took a picture. Then when I zoomed I was actually just zooming in on the picture that was jus shot, so obviously focusing would have not effect.

Second, I found that AF actually does work with the teleconverter, as long as I am in live view. I first thought that it didn't like that I am configured for back button AF, but even putting AF back onto the shutter button had no effect. Viewfinder AF works fine with just the Sigma 150-600, but it doesn't seem to like the Sigma teleconverter. I had done my original testing with the view finder because that is how I shoot with the exception of astrophotography, so I just assumed it didn't work and never tried it in live view. Which is fine because astrophotography is pretty much the only time I will use the teleconverter as well.

Thanks to everyone for suggestions that prompted me to do more testing! Looking forward to another go...

Let me define something. On zoom lens, before setting up focus on a target, you have to set lens zoom value to make sure the object will be inside the frame as much as you wish (so called to frame an object). Only after that switching to 10X screen magnification you start to do focusing the lens without touching zoom ring. It is bad idea to zoom the lens as much as it allows, focus on the object and return zoom ring to the framing position. In this case your lens will be out of focus - this is lens design flaw. Only very expensive lenses can do that. In short: zoom first then focus on the object.

Slagrim wrote in post #19472916
Let me define something. On zoom lens, before setting up focus on a target, you have to set lens zoom value to make sure the object will be inside the frame as much as you wish (so called to frame an object). Only after that switching to 10X screen magnification you start to do focusing the lens without touching zoom ring. It is bad idea to zoom the lens as much as it allows, focus on the object and return zoom ring to the framing position. In this case your lens will be out of focus - this is lens design flaw. Only very expensive lenses can do that. In short: zoom first then focus on the object.

Makes sense, but the zoom to which I was referring was the 5x/10x zoom in the liveview screen, not the actual lens.

hobs1466 wrote in post #19472717
Okay, so I did some experimenting this morning and discovered a couple of things….

…I didn't realize there was a physical button to do the zoom. I thought you did it on the screen, but since I had the touch shutter still configured touching the screen took a picture. Then when I zoomed I was actually just zooming in on the picture that was jus shot, so obviously focusing would have not effect…

…Thanks to everyone for suggestions that prompted me to do more testing! Looking forward to another go...

Wind on the camera was mentioned earlier as a possible source of motion blur leading to soft images.

Another source of motion blur would be if you are releasing the shutter by touching the touch screen. A $20 wired remote is a very good investment for astro and other slow-shutter work, but you could test this by using the self-timer.

This is also one of the areas where the superior dampening of a carbon fiber tripod can make a big difference over aluminum. The ever-so-slight vibrations of the camera & tripod settling can be hugely magnified at super telephoto focal lengths.

Lastly, it’s also a good time to experiment with mirror lock up if you’re on a DSLR. The mirror bounce can also induce vibration.

Apologies if I missed any of these points being addressed earlier in the thread… I just happened to notice the OP’s mention of touch screen shutter release and it started me thinking about all the vibrations.