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Thread started 01 Jan 2010 (Friday) 08:38
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newbie to EOS 7D

 
ceriltheblade
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Jan 01, 2010 08:38 |  #1

Hi there,

I'd like to introduce myself...I am a newbie. (chorus: hello newbie)

So there I am after buying the eos 7d trying to figure out the way too many options that there are....

(for those of you following at home, page 66-67 in the manual):rolleyes:

I am trying to figure out if it would be right to use the monochrome adjustment (in camera B&W) with the various filter effects vs doing the same thing in photoshop (assuming that I learn that)

i.e. assuming that both the B&W effect as well as the filter effects noted are software adjustments - which protocols (canon internal engine vs. photoshop) are the best ....or good enough to learn on....or don't suck too much so as to show them to Aunt Bertha....:lol:

sorry for the ramble....:o

thanks....


7D/5dIII
50 1.8 II, MP-E65, 85 II, 100 IS
8-15 FE, 10-22, 16-35 IS, 24-105, 70-200 f4IS, 100-400 ii, tamron 28-75 2.8
600 ex-rt, 055xproB/488rc2/Sirui k40x, kenko extens tubes

  
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gonzogolf
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Jan 01, 2010 08:46 |  #2

ceriltheblade wrote in post #9301400 (external link)
Hi there,

I'd like to introduce myself...I am a newbie. (chorus: hello newbie)

So there I am after buying the eos 7d trying to figure out the way too many options that there are....

(for those of you following at home, page 66-67 in the manual):rolleyes:

I am trying to figure out if it would be right to use the monochrome adjustment (in camera B&W) with the various filter effects vs doing the same thing in photoshop (assuming that I learn that)

i.e. assuming that both the B&W effect as well as the filter effects noted are software adjustments - which protocols (canon internal engine vs. photoshop) are the best ....or good enough to learn on....or don't suck too much so as to show them to Aunt Bertha....:lol:

sorry for the ramble....:o

thanks....

Its better to make your black and white or monochrome conversions in the software after the fact. Depending on which software you are using you can make significant improvements to your bw conversion. Photoshop cs3 and above allow you to precisely control the bw conversion of each color making for much more precise and properly contrasted conversions. The second reason for doing it in the software is that one you convert in the camera the color information is is discarded. In a sofware conversion you have the data and can make multiple interpretations of it until you are satisfied. This same argument applies to shooting raw files instead of .jpg




  
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ceriltheblade
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Jan 01, 2010 08:59 |  #3

thanks for the explanation gonzogolf. it seems, then, I will have to actually spend to time to learn the photoshop....which just seems to be painful.....
oh well.

i guess if it would be easy, everyone would do it.....
poop.

see y'all in the photoshop newbie forum.


7D/5dIII
50 1.8 II, MP-E65, 85 II, 100 IS
8-15 FE, 10-22, 16-35 IS, 24-105, 70-200 f4IS, 100-400 ii, tamron 28-75 2.8
600 ex-rt, 055xproB/488rc2/Sirui k40x, kenko extens tubes

  
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gonzogolf
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Jan 01, 2010 09:03 |  #4

ceriltheblade wrote in post #9301470 (external link)
thanks for the explanation gonzogolf. it seems, then, I will have to actually spend to time to learn the photoshop....which just seems to be painful.....
oh well.

i guess if it would be easy, everyone would do it.....
poop.

see y'all in the photoshop newbie forum.

If you want a similar result as the camera output, simply use the desaturation tool on any post processing software. It will work. My point was more about the permanence of doing that sort of thing in the camera




  
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D ­ Thompson
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Jan 01, 2010 11:14 |  #5

gonzogolf wrote in post #9301422 (external link)
The second reason for doing it in the software is that one you convert in the camera the color information is is discarded. In a sofware conversion you have the data and can make multiple interpretations of it until you are satisfied. This same argument applies to shooting raw files instead of .jpg

My point was more about the permanence of doing that sort of thing in the camera.

I agree with doing the conversion in software as you have way more control over the outcome. However, if you shoot RAW then it really doesn't matter because the in-camera picture styles are not recognized by Photoshop. Also, in DPP all you have to do is change it from Monochrome to whatever style you'd like and the color is there. You are stuck with Monochrome if you shoot only jpeg.


Dennis
Canon 5D Mk III 5D 20D
I have not yet begun to procrastinate!

  
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WaltA
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Jan 01, 2010 11:54 |  #6

ceriltheblade wrote in post #9301470 (external link)
thanks for the explanation gonzogolf. it seems, then, I will have to actually spend to time to learn the photoshop....which just seems to be painful.....
oh well.

i guess if it would be easy, everyone would do it.....
poop.

see y'all in the photoshop newbie forum.

Or you could use Digital Photo Professional - easier to use and free.


Walt
400D, 5D, 7D and a bag of stuff

  
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Tee ­ Why
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Jan 02, 2010 00:19 |  #7

I think it gives better results to shoot in RAW and then with Canon's DPP to use monochrome picture style. This allows you to go back to color or mess with different b/w filter effects.

If you find that you like a specific effect, then you can set your picture style to those personalized settings as well.


Gallery: http://tomyi.smugmug.c​om/ (external link)

  
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Lars ­ Daniel
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Jan 02, 2010 09:58 |  #8

First of all, shoot RAW and forget the camera settings for BW, white balance etc.
Second I would suggest you wait with PS untill you really NEED it.
I hate DPP (after all, it is a freebie that comes with the camera. Why should they work their a**es off for it) but Lightroom is a wonderful piece of software at the right price. It offers you *a lot* in a smooth and friendly interface. Check out the free demo (works for 1 month).


Previously Canon. Now Fuji. (-And loving it!)
www.larsdaniel.com

  
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