Your Best Wedding Group Shot?

Julie, love those! The one with the groomsman hangin upside down is too, too awesome. And the ones with the girls all around the stone firepit is gorgeous; either you did a fantastic job positioning them or they are all natural born posers!

ejicon wrote in post #9374705
Can I play?
Nice shots... I love em all.

This bunch looks like they were having a blast! Good capture!!

picturecrazy wrote in post #9373779
Don't know if they're my best, but these are a few that come to mind...

I love this one. Any quick details on how you achieved this one without HDR (flash position, lens, any PP?). The depth is just great.

Michelle Brooks Photography wrote in post #9374462
You can tell I am a vertically challenged girl--height always fools me! So how doyou make sure your subjects are in focus if the camera is being held above your head like that?

You answered an unasked question of mine--if HDR was involved. That is incredible that you can get those results without it! I am just beginning to experiment with OCF and am excited about the results I will be getting!

Haha, I'm vertically challenged too, for a guy. Well, average for an asian but short by western standards.

I prefocus the lens before I take the shot. I use the distance scale on the lens to approximate focus. Then shoot at a decent aperture to give you some wiggle room. Back button focusing is paramount to this technique. If you are not already back button focusing, then DO it. It allows you MUCH more flexibility to completely separate focusing and shutter releasing.

Study flash well and there will be NO situation you cannot shoot in. Knowing flash and knowing how to use available light will really round out your skills and flexibility.

Antz_Marchin wrote in post #9375844
I love this one. Any quick details on how you achieved this one without HDR (flash position, lens, any PP?). The depth is just great.

That photo is an old one so I'm having trouble remembering. I think it was about 4-5 speedlites or so. The rest is done by adjusting the greyscale mix to bring up shadow areas and bring down highlights.

picturecrazy wrote in post #9376509
I prefocus the lens before I take the shot. I use the distance scale on the lens to approximate focus. Then shoot at a decent aperture to give you some wiggle room. Back button focusing is paramount to this technique. If you are not already back button focusing, then DO it. It allows you MUCH more flexibility to completely separate focusing and shutter releasing.

so i figured all that when you were asked this question... well, everything except back button focusing. I'm terminology impaired... what is this? It's possible I already do it just don't know it is a technique or has a name.

sctbiggs wrote in post #9377402
so i figured all that when you were asked this question... well, everything except back button focusing. I'm terminology impaired... what is this? It's possible I already do it just don't know it is a technique or has a name.

I am not the one to answer any questions about this, since I am just now reading up on the tecnique myself, but here is a link to a Canon article about it http://www.usa.canon.c​om …ArticleAct&arti​cleID=2286 amd here is a POTN thread about it https://photography-on-the.net …ghlight=back+bu​tton+focus
It still is confusing to me to read about it but I hope in theory works! I just need to start trying it out.

The pre-focusing with the distance scale is also something I don't understand. I had read it was no longer considered a viable technique, but obviously that is not true.

I see... i just call it locking the focus. I rarely use it, maybe a few times at my kids soccer games. I may just try when it's time to kiss the bride at our next wedding.

Pre-focus, If you aren't gonna be able to see through your viewfinder or screen what you are focusing on, the best way to get it right on the first try is to pre-focus and then use AF lock. Or i guess, as it's called, back button focusing. I just try to avoide these situations. I'd find a taller ladder or climb that tree.

picturecrazy wrote in post #9373779
Don't know if they're my best, but these are a few that come to mind...

That is a very powerful image. The perspective, the poses, the lighting, all is perfect. Job well done.

FamilyJules wrote in post #9374808
Other than what I had posted in the other thread

LOL, nice

Michelle Brooks Photography wrote in post #9377428
I am not the one to answer any questions about this, since I am just now reading up on the tecnique myself, but here is a link to a Canon article about it http://www.usa.canon.c​om …ArticleAct&arti​cleID=2286 amd here is a POTN thread about it https://photography-on-the.net …ghlight=back+bu​tton+focus
It still is confusing to me to read about it but I hope in theory works! I just need to start trying it out.

The pre-focusing with the distance scale is also something I don't understand. I had read it was no longer considered a viable technique, but obviously that is not true.

Definitely switch to back/rear button focusing. I cannot think of any possible disadvantage for pro shooting. What camera do you have? The current cameras all have a dedicated rear focus button (AF-ON) because it has become such a standard technique. You still need to go into your custom functions to COMPLETELY DISABLE focusing on the shutter button. But if you have an older body, like the 30D or 5D which has no AF-ON button, set your custom function IV to 1. This will turn the * button on the back of your camera into the focusing button.

And who on earth said the distance scale is no longer a viable technique? It's surprising what kind of messages get sent around. I probably take at least 75 shots a wedding that are focused using the distance scale... mostly all my dancefloor photos that are taken overhead like this one:

sctbiggs wrote in post #9377402
so i figured all that when you were asked this question... well, everything except back button focusing. I'm terminology impaired... what is this? It's possible I already do it just don't know it is a technique or has a name.

sctbiggs wrote in post #9377494
I see... i just call it locking the focus. I rarely use it, maybe a few times at my kids soccer games. I may just try when it's time to kiss the bride at our next wedding.

Pre-focus, If you aren't gonna be able to see through your viewfinder or screen what you are focusing on, the best way to get it right on the first try is to pre-focus and then use AF lock. Or i guess, as it's called, back button focusing. I just try to avoide these situations. I'd find a taller ladder or climb that tree.

Seriously, shoot your next entire wedding with rear button focusing. It *WILL* take a bit of getting used to, but after you've done it for a while, you'll NEVER want to go back. There are many advantages to it. Namely, precisely timed moments like the kiss you mentioned. You can just hit the focus button and lock focus, and then just wait until the exact moment they kiss and hit the button. No focus lag. It's about a million times easier to precisely time a shot.
Another advantage is that if you are taking a series of shots of the same subject/composition, you do not need to even refocus between shots. Focus once, blast off your 5-10 shots at your leisure. Again, with no focus lag. This is ESPECIALLY useful if you have to focus and recompose the shot 5 times to get 5 shots. Focus once, recompose once, blast off your 5 shots.
If you are using Servo focusing mode, it is so much easier to track your subject by holding the rear button and pressing the shutter when you need to. Servo with the shutter button always seems to mess up between shots... sometimes you let go of the button too much and it stops tracking, and has to re-establish focus between shots.

maybe i'll play with it some at a bridal this week. guess i'll practice on the kids first.

A couple of my favorites

picturecrazy wrote in post #9379307
What camera do you have?

I have a 50D and 7D, both of which have a designated AF On button. I keep reading and reading about this technique, I just can't seem to grasp it. I get confused on which situations call for just tapping the button, and which call for holding it down. I do a lot of candid portraiture of children, and I don't understand how I could focus in the eyes, move the camera (recompose) and still have the eyes in focus..?

And who on earth said the distance scale is no longer a viable technique?

I did a search on Distance Scale Focus because the book Understanding Exposure (Bryan Peterson) frequently mentions doing this, but doesn't explain how... anyway, the results from the search turned up a few sources (I think even here on POTN) that described it as a technique of past times....
mostly all my dancefloor photos that are taken overhead like this one:

Obviously it works for you!

Seriously, shoot your next entire wedding with rear button focusing. It *WILL* take a bit of getting used to, but after you've done it for a while, you'll NEVER want to go back. There are many advantages to it. Namely, precisely timed moments like the kiss you mentioned. You can just hit the focus button and lock focus, and then just wait until the exact moment they kiss and hit the button. No focus lag. It's about a million times easier to precisely time a shot.
Another advantage is that if you are taking a series of shots of the same subject/composition, you do not need to even refocus between shots. Focus once, blast off your 5-10 shots at your leisure. Again, with no focus lag. This is ESPECIALLY useful if you have to focus and recompose the shot 5 times to get 5 shots. Focus once, recompose once, blast off your 5 shots.
If you are using Servo focusing mode, it is so much easier to track your subject by holding the rear button and pressing the shutter when you need to. Servo with the shutter button always seems to mess up between shots... sometimes you let go of the button too much and it stops tracking, and has to re-establish focus between shots.

Thanks!

jcolman wrote in post #9379852
A couple of my favorites

Both great, but I LOVE #2!

A couple of my favs