You've got a natural talent. All those pictures are good from a surfer's standpoint.
Your far range (250mm) turned out to be a good thing. If you look at all the Surfer Magazines from the 1970s, they had a lot of pulled back shots like this. I loved it because it gave a better perspective on the scene.
Most magazines now will only run closeups. These are nice, but the magazine's intent is to make sure the stickers on the surfboard can be read so that the advertising sponsors are happy.
Transworld Surf Magazine ran a cover a couple years go with Andy Irons on a borrowed board. THe board had no labels on it, and it caused a row at the magazine. It's silly.
Back in the 70s the magazines were incredibly better than they are now because the focus was on surfing, travel, waves, and the lifestyle.
Now it's all about dinero.
Your shots kickass. Keep doing exactly what you just did. Try to write down what time of day it was (and the date). Learn what you did right. You'll be surprised how hard it can be to duplicate it.
Number two is a little funky, but from a surfer's standpoint it makes you wonder, "did he make it?"
Also, the guy dropping in late and going right (with his back to the wave). I wonder if he got hammered of if he made it.
Thank you. 