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Thread started 25 Jan 2010 (Monday) 18:00
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First serious run at product photography

 
Gr8outdrsmn
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Jan 25, 2010 18:00 |  #1

This is my first real try at product photography.

Second time using my B800.

Lit by single B800 w/socked HOBD at 1/8th power

Here is a setup shot:

IMAGE: http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a388/gr8outdrsmn/IMG_1551.jpg



1.
IMAGE: http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a388/gr8outdrsmn/Tifosi.jpg

2.
IMAGE: http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a388/gr8outdrsmn/IMG_9077w.jpg

3.
IMAGE: http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a388/gr8outdrsmn/IMG_9031nosn.jpg



Be completely honest with me, please. Critique away! haha

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Gr8outdrsmn
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Jan 25, 2010 20:02 |  #2

Nothing?


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canonloader
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Jan 26, 2010 05:41 |  #3

Gr8outdrsmn wrote in post #9470552 (external link)
Nothing?

Weird ain't it? I'm losing interest cause nobody replies here. Why bother?

Get some modeling clay. Use a small piece of paper as a base, squeeze out some clay in the form of a cone and put it on the floor of the box behind and under the gun, by the grip. This will prop it up and you won't see it. The dab of paper will keep stains off the foam board and the clay won't stain the gun.

The snap needs to be centered, but that's me.

Overall, everything is too bright, my taste again.


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Gr8outdrsmn
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Jan 26, 2010 05:46 |  #4

Thanks canonloader! You solved a major issue for me with the modeling clay!! Yeah, it's crazy how no one is replying anymore. I mean this is supposed to be a place we can come to get critiquing on our photos and share in the enjoyment that is our passion, yet only a handful of us are actually active anymore...Oh well, all we can do is keep posting and hope others jump on board eventually, haha.

Next round will be better lit. Third time's a charm, right? haha.

Since this thread is going nowhere... I was looking at your MotoX thread because I have a friend that races and wants some pics. Any tips/advice? I will be using 30D w/70-200 2.8 IS


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dynamitetony
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Jan 26, 2010 05:53 as a reply to  @ canonloader's post |  #5

i dont shoot products so have no real input other than to say i really like them

nice and crisp images and id be happy with them if you produced them for me to go in a magazine or similar


5Dmk4 : 5Dmk3: Sigma 24mm F1.4 :Sigma 35mm F1.4 : Canon 50mm F1.4 : Canon 85mm F1.8 : Canon 100mm F2.8 Macro : Canon 24-105 F4 : Canon 70-200 F2.8L mkii : Flashes, lights & Stuff

  
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canonloader
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Jan 26, 2010 07:03 |  #6

I have a friend that races and wants some pics. Any tips/advice?

The 70-200 should do OK, as long as you can get close. I used a Sigma 105 of all things for most of the shots. I had my 400/5.6 with me, but it was way too long to frame a complete bike and rider inside the frame at anything less than 80 yards.

I was able to get close though, right on the track at times, and I used my MkIIN at 8 frames a second. The action happens so fast that you need to shoot as high a frame rate as the camera is capable of, start shooting early and keep shooting till they are past you. I framed the shots with my feet. I would watch and track one guy, then if I needed to get closer, I just walked closer, no zoom on the Sigma. But you want to get as close as you can, because detail falls off in just a few feet of distance.

These shots were done with the MkIIN and Sigma 105, literally right under the bikes as they jumped over me, between two mogules...

http://www.picturelacr​osse.com …below-1d2n3028-101109.jpg (external link)

http://www.picturelacr​osse.com …below-1d2n3042-101109.jpg (external link)

http://www.picturelacr​osse.com …below-1d2n3048-101109.jpg (external link)

http://www.picturelacr​osse.com …below-1d2n3066-101109.jpg (external link)

http://www.picturelacr​osse.com …below-1d2n3073-101109.jpg (external link)

http://www.picturelacr​osse.com …below-1d2n3080-101109.jpg (external link)

And these were shot with the MkIIN and 400/5.6 from about 80-90 yards away, as they flew up over a hill they had come up...

http://www.picturelacr​osse.com …mpers-1d2n5617-090709.jpg (external link)

http://www.picturelacr​osse.com …mpers-1d2n5641-090709.jpg (external link)

http://www.picturelacr​osse.com …mpers-1d2n5847-090709.jpg (external link)

http://www.picturelacr​osse.com …mpers-1d2n5673-090709.jpg (external link)

http://www.picturelacr​osse.com …mpers-1d2n6778-090909.jpg (external link)

http://www.picturelacr​osse.com …quads-1d2n5266-090709.jpg (external link)

Don't know why I never posted some of these shots. Lack of interest I think. :lol:


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snyderman
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Jan 26, 2010 07:23 |  #7

Good crisp shots, but as Canonloader indicated, all are a bit 'bland' due to overlighting? They don't APPEAR overexposed at all, just lacking that contrast that would really make them pop!

It's probably easy to find a good shot of a pair of sunglasses in any outdoorsy mag. Look for a shot and see how others have done things.

dave


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Gr8outdrsmn
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Jan 26, 2010 10:55 |  #8

@ dynamitetony: Thanks! That means I am finally doing something right, haha.

@ canonloader: Thank you for the info! Those are some amazing shots. I need to get out to the track and see what I can get from where...

@ snyderman: Thanks, I am just mainly working on properly lighting the product to produce a crisp image. Once I feel that I have mastered that, I will add a more intricate and catchy background or something to make the images "pop" more. Thanks for the sunglasses tip, I will check some out!


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tomd
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Jan 26, 2010 10:58 |  #9

did you shoot the pics (first post) with the 70-200?


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Gr8outdrsmn
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Jan 26, 2010 11:10 |  #10

yes, all of the product shots were shot with 70-200


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Stickman
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Jan 28, 2010 22:23 as a reply to  @ Gr8outdrsmn's post |  #11

I think most people use the other part of the forum, the smaller offshoot sections tend to get ignored.

I think the shots are good, and I do a lot of weapon product work. I would bring the levels up a little more on the Glock. You can use lots of things to prop up a weapon, especially if you stick with light colors you should be good to go. Knifes and pens through a trigger guard just look poor (IMHO).

I keep a bunch of things around for propping items and keeping them in place. The little erasers that go on the end of pencils (wedge shaped) come in handy as well.


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Gr8outdrsmn
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Jan 29, 2010 05:00 |  #12

Thanks Stick! That means a lot coming from you. I have admired your firearm work for a long time. I knew I shouldn't have used the pen, but it was a quick grab and, frankly, I was too lazy at the time to search for something else. Thanks for the eraser tip, will give it a shot.

ETA: What do you use for a background on your white BG shots? I am tempted to get a sheet of the low gloss paneling from Lowe's because it would be easy to blow out and eliminate any problem spots. Problem is that I have limited space to set anything up...I know someone that has an armory that would make any of us jealous and would really like to photograph some of his collection, but I need something that will be portable and still make a good background. What would you suggest? All shots don't have to be shot on stark white, just that it's probably one of the easiest to work with. I am open to any and all suggestions. For the firearm shots I will try to integrate more "related items" into the frame to give it more detail. Thanks again.


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Stickman
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Jan 29, 2010 11:46 |  #13

Gr8outdrsmn wrote in post #9495917 (external link)
Thanks Stick! That means a lot coming from you. I have admired your firearm work for a long time. I knew I shouldn't have used the pen, but it was a quick grab and, frankly, I was too lazy at the time to search for something else. Thanks for the eraser tip, will give it a shot.

ETA: What do you use for a background on your white BG shots? I am tempted to get a sheet of the low gloss paneling from Lowe's because it would be easy to blow out and eliminate any problem spots. Problem is that I have limited space to set anything up...I know someone that has an armory that would make any of us jealous and would really like to photograph some of his collection, but I need something that will be portable and still make a good background. What would you suggest? All shots don't have to be shot on stark white, just that it's probably one of the easiest to work with. I am open to any and all suggestions. For the firearm shots I will try to integrate more "related items" into the frame to give it more detail. Thanks again.


It all depends on what you are looking to do. Paper is a pretty cheap way to do things, and you can get it either flat or glossy. The below are simple setups, but for what I do, they work well enough.


Simple can work nicely, and I'm a fan of negative space when used in the right way.

Matte paper

IMAGE NOT FOUND
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Glossy paper.

IMAGE NOT FOUND
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Stick
http://www.flickr.com/​photos/stickgunner/ (external link)

  
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Stickman
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Jan 29, 2010 11:49 as a reply to  @ Stickman's post |  #14

Props can be simple as well, in this case my backup weapon is laying on a strikeplate, with my St Michael medal on top of the slide. I think this would have worked better if St Michael was off centered just a bit more.

Again, nothing too elaborate here.


IMAGE NOT FOUND
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Stickman
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Jan 29, 2010 11:54 as a reply to  @ Stickman's post |  #15

Lastly, if you want to bring something else into the picture, you can always go with colored gels, or use a filtered flashlight, which is what I did in the below image.

In this case, the long slide 1911 was calling out for something over the top. since I have no skills at all in post processing, I went with red and blue gels over a flashlight for this one. The 6" 1911 belongs to a friend, and he wanted something different looking. I think the use of gels is very overdone in the firearm community, so I went even further with this to make it overbearing.

Some people will look at this and say I went to far, and I agree, that was the point.

In any event, this is just a handgun thrown on a tile in a dark room and two flashlights with colored gels being used. The gels were out of the stationary section of a local store, nothing fancy, and it was actually pretty cheap for a stack of them.


IMAGE NOT FOUND
Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE

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