Metering and Reframing Question

Alright, I'm shooting a couple of shows this weekend, and I've been thinking and reading about metering modes. Evaluative doesn't seem like the way to go, as it will account for a black background or any of the sharp contrasts that are expected at a concert.
My question is, if I am shooting in spot or partial, or even center weighted average, will the metering from when I AF still be in effect after I reframe the shot? Or will it then remeter for the center?
So to reword that, if I autofocus using the center AF point on a guitar player's well lit face, then reframe the shot, will the camera take another reading of whatever became the new center?

I plan on shooting in Av by the way.
Thanks

Under normal operation, your camera will continually adjust exposure settings as you recompose your shot. Assuming you haven't set up your camera for back button focusing, you can use your AE Lock button (*) to lock in a specific exposure setting as you reframe. Simply meter the area of the scene that you want, press the AE Lock button (you should see an "*" in your viewfinder -- mine comes up in the bottom left corner on my 50D), recompose, and take the shot.

I hope this helps.

PS - If you want to lock in that exposure for multiple shots, then keep the AE lock button depressed as you continue to shoot.

After finding a good exposure (check your histogram) i'd shoot in manual.

Seems easier than holding the AE lock button down as you shoot.

TeenPhotog wrote in post #9493409
So to reword that, if I autofocus using the center AF point on a guitar player's well lit face, then reframe the shot, will the camera take another reading of whatever became the new center

In Av using spot/partial? Yes.

(It will still occur in evaluative to a degree, depending on the scene).

I vote going manual.

Spot meter the subject's face (typically +1 for Caucasian skin), chimp once, and then blat away without having to worry about it.

I'm sure the Av advocates will be along soon to shoot me down, but seriously...I haven't heard an argument yet that has convinced me that Av is any quicker or easier.

In an environment like this, your exposures would be all over the map depending on which stage lights were on at the second you clicked the shutter. Better to go manual i say.

manual with evaluative metering mode?

Well, when you shoot manual metering modes are irrelevant, except for displaying the needle.

so if you're shooting on M, picking evaluative or center weighted avg or either of the other 2 options is irrelevant? well shoot, you learn something new everyday

Yup. When you use manual you're overriding the meter. you can get an idea of how close you are to "actual" exposure by looking at the needle though.

Manual and look at your LCD, I hope you are familiar with your histogram, use it, adjust accordingly. Concerts with the varialble and sometimes harsh lighting can be difficult, the tighter you crop (in camera) the more accurate your metering will be, and your pics more interesting. Remember to shoot to the right, a lot easier to pull out details in the dark areas and your highlights will not be as badly blown.

S2K.OGRAPHY wrote in post #9495911
so if you're shooting on M, picking evaluative or center weighted avg or either of the other 2 options is irrelevant?

No no no!

Metering is just as important (as is metering mode selection) in M, it's just that you're the one doing the interpretation of the reading instead of letting the camera do it.

PMCphotography wrote in post #9495894
Well, when you shoot manual metering modes are irrelevant, except for displaying the needle.

Well that exception seems to make it pretty relevant.

SOK wrote in post #9496174
No no no!

Metering is just as important (as is metering mode selection) in M, it's just that you're the one doing the interpretation of the reading instead of letting the camera do it.

I would disagree - metering is pretty much irrelevant. You can shoot perfectly well with a sample shot and the histogram without ever looking at the needle.

At least thats the way i do it. Guesstimate an exposure from experience as a starting point, look at the histogram, adjust and reshoot until I have the desired histogram (not photo as the LCD can be incorrect)

PMCphotography wrote in post #9495894
Well, when you shoot manual metering modes are irrelevant, except for displaying the needle.

PMCphotography wrote in post #9495934
Yup. When you use manual you're overriding the meter. you can get an idea of how close you are to "actual" exposure by looking at the needle though.

How the camera is set (evaluative, partial, spot, etc.) is VERY CRITICAL toward the photographer understanding what the meter is reading. Without understanding what the camera is doing with its metering, the photographer is incapable of making an informed decision. Because I shoot primarily in manual mode ("M"), I always have my 20D set for "Partial" metering - the closest thing the 20D can do to spot metering.

S2K.OGRAPHY wrote in post #9495911
so if you're shooting on M, picking evaluative or center weighted avg or either of the other 2 options is irrelevant? well shoot, you learn something new everyday

As I said above, PMC's advice is not correct. If you must use the camera's meter (and I choose to use a handheld meter more often than the camera's meter for a couple of reasons), I would suggest using the "Spot" choice if your camera has that. That way, you can sample various elements of the scene and then make up your mind about what settings to use.

neilwood32 wrote in post #9496480
I would disagree - metering is pretty much irrelevant. You can shoot perfectly well with a sample shot and the histogram without ever looking at the needle.

At least thats the way i do it. Guesstimate an exposure from experience as a starting point, look at the histogram, adjust and reshoot until I have the desired histogram (not photo as the LCD can be incorrect)

Your method may work for casual photography, but if you want every shot to be well exposed because you cannot afford to experiment and throw away images, then you'll need to learn how to use a meter.

The histogram is NOT a light meter. All it tells you is how the various brightness levels in the scene are distributed in the captured image. If you shoot a snow scene, for example, the histogram of a properly exposed image will be far different from a properly exposed image of a dark alley. If you adjust both exposures to center the curves, both will be wrong.

Other than having enough experience to inherently KNOW what exposure settings to use in various lighting conditions, the only way to get your exposures right the first time is to use a light meter. Of course, one needs to have the experience to interpret what the light meter is showing you.

I use my handheld meter in incident mode 99% of the time, meaning that I am measuring the light falling on the subject and not the light reflected from it. This makes getting a "correct" exposure a bit easier, as the color or reflectivity of the subject becomes less of an issue.

The camera's meter is purely a reflected light meter, and has significant limitations because of that. The photographer's training and experience is especially important when using a reflected light meter.

This is why I don't:
Post #47
Click the post #47 at the top-right of that post if you'd like more info on the subject.

I used his white T-shirt to get the exposure for this show:
The Johnny Headband Band