24-70mm Blurry Images Horror Stories

17-85 has IS. The 24-70 doesn't. 17-85 is also at 5.6, and even if it's wide open... well it's still stopped down. Maybe give it a whirl outside on a tripod and shoot some flowers or something. Keep ISO at 100. You could also see if it's backfocusing or frontfocusing by aligning up some batteries.

SiaoP wrote in post #9502770
17-85 has IS. The 24-70 doesn't. 17-85 is also at 5.6, and even if it's wide open... well it's still stopped down. Maybe give it a whirl outside on a tripod and shoot some flowers or something. Keep ISO at 100. You could also see if it's backfocusing or frontfocusing by aligning up some batteries.

i think 5.6 is the largest aperture for a 17-85 at 70mm - so it is wide open...

and shooting flowers, though "real world" isn't the best test for focus accuracy - they move in the breeze and have multiple contrasty spots for the AF to focus on and getting some random part in the picture sharp is not the goal - but to get the point actually focused on sharp and in focus

to the OP: as has been said 1/20 of a second is REALLY slow for 70mm and you really should rule out the body - try that thing on the 50D - it is unreasonable to resist that as part of the trouble shooting/elimination process. Its not like it is going to screw up your 70-200 by taking it off the 50D for a moment. Maybe you have the setting different on the two bodies and don't realize it? Different auto focus settings? At what distance are you shooting these tests? are you inside the minimum focus distance by chance?

Its all worth a shot to eliminate possible user errors since sometimes things just slip by us. (Lightrules and the infamous 6.5 fps anyone??)

I didn't read all 5 pages so apologies if someone's already suggested this, but is the 70-200 good on your 40D, if so could using that and the 24-70 on the 50D and using the micro adjust solve the problem or is the lens too far oof for even that?

Mark Anthony wrote in post #9502948
I didn't read all 5 pages so apologies if someone's already suggested this, but is the 70-200 good on your 40D, if so could using that and the 24-70 on the 50D and using the micro adjust solve the problem or is the lens too far oof for even that?

I agree - try micro adjustment and also have a read of this - very interesting
http://www.lensrentals​.com …s-is-soft-and-other-myths

Not saying that this IS your problem, but worth considering.

I believe what we have here is operator error. You should either sell this lens or not use it until you are ready. Hand-holding at 1/20 sec makes it nearly impossible to get sharp photos. If you had more experience you would know that, but you're just learning at this point.

Mount the camera and lens on a sturdy tripod and photograph something with sharp detail instead of the basket. Shoot in manual mode. Try both autofocus and manual focus. Use the 2-second self timer to eliminate camera shake. Be very precise with your testing or it will be wasted time. If the lens consistently produces soft shots under good conditions then there's something wrong with it. If it produces sharp results then you have to take a serious look at the way you handle your equipment. Just because it's a $1300 lens does not mean you can throw caution to the wind. EVERY shot you take should be taken very seriously. Be steady, breath easy, brace yourself. In low light expect a small percentage of keepers. The 24-70 is a marvelous hunk of glass and the majority of lens complaints are due to operator error as opposed to a 'bad copy'. It's not impossible to have a malfunctioning lens, but you'll never know for sure until you get serious with the testing.

philwillmedia wrote in post #9502987
I agree - try micro adjustment and also have a read of this - very interesting
http://www.lensrentals​.com …s-is-soft-and-other-myths

Not saying that this IS your problem, but worth considering.

Forget micro adjustments as a properly calibrated cam and lense should AF with accuracy most of the time.
IF not, something (or someone) is wrong!

Use MicroF with a properly calibrated body and lense...

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What is a "bad" copy?
Is that one that Canon throws in a huge skyscraper size pile of unredeemable L lens because the voodoo didn't take?

Canon repair can check and verify the housing is true, the flange alignment is square and true, that the optics in alignment and proper distances from each other, that the packings and such are in place. They can check the len's electronic system for defective assemblies, and bad connections. They use electro-optically precision equipment to hand calibrate lens and cameras.
Finally they can make a MTF chart that graphs that individually calibrated(if it was calibrated by repair) lense to make it's within or exceeding factory specs.
At that point it should meet factory specs, or they should say that it is unrepairable.

Canon is known to conservatively rate their products, and compared to many other companies this seems to be true.

Why can a repair item come back damage?

Send both the body and len(s) unless that item is know to be good, meaning it's recently been serviced!
Shipping drops stuff like you can't imagine, and no amount of packaging helps prevent damage sometimes.

ALWAYS bubble wrap your equipment well, double boxing+bubble wrap is best. Canon will not return the bubble wrap (*groan*).
DO NOT use newspaper for padding and seal the item in a bag.
Use FedEx overnight if you want it back quick. FedEx tends to be a lot better than UPS if ship over night as far as giving gentle treatment to the package. UPS kicks stuff sometimes...
Always insure it for the full $ amount, unless otherwise covered by a private policy.

Failure to provide written and complete document ion of the problem(s), or poorly describing it.
Best to send RAW files on a DVD if it's something to do with the image.

Talk to the repair center before they start the repair and be sure they know what the issues are, and how you want it rectified.
Be polite, but don't be timid. Unneeded rudeness will not help your cause.
Escalated it if need be.

Some problems are intermittent, and hard to catch. These are real buggers and may not be found the first or even third time... I know this from experience.
Canon will replace unserviceable products that are under warranty. no joke.


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I have more clicks on my camera testing lenses than taking actual pictures, I went through same delima with my 85mm 1.8, sent it to canon came back with not much difference, sent it again came back tack sharp, what is going wrong with Canon QC, now if I am not happy wide open with IQ, lens go back ASAP. Not dealing with sending to Canon 2 or 3 times.
I was also not happy with 24-70 performance, I will wait for new version with IS to come out. I do not know if Canon will give you another lens until you sent your lens back to Canon for repair few times.
Did I mention that second time, when I get my 85mm back from Canon something was rattling so when I open the rear lens cap, there is a round plastic flat ring between metal mount and glass that was just lying there, OMG I have to snap that plastic ring on, and it was not easy, I could easily damage the lens or break the ring.

sam300 wrote in post #9504204
I have more clicks on my camera testing lenses than taking actual pictures, I went through same delima with my 85mm 1.8, sent it to canon came back with not much difference, sent it again came back tack sharp, what is going wrong with Canon QC, now if I am not happy wide open with IQ, lens go back ASAP. Not dealing with sending to Canon 2 or 3 times.
I was also not happy with 24-70 performance, I will wait for new version with IS to come out. I do not know if Canon will give you another lens until you sent your lens back to Canon for repair few times.

How is hand holding a cam while shooting at 1/20th a second any standard to use to judge IQ or AF performance?

Send BOTH camera and lense, then if it's not right, start groaning!
Do as I stated above...

I know 1/20 will give a blur picture handheld, increase the ISO and make it 1/125 handheld or use a tripod.

At 1/20 and 70mm, the 24-70 is going to get smoked by the lens with image stabilization.

As usual, the error is 3-6 inches behind the viewfinder.

Based on many comments in here, maybe Canon should change these lines to sell its lens, so I figure it should go as follows:

Canon 24-70mm L USM Lens: This category features lenses with the most popular focal lengths, from wide-angle to telephoto, and a variety of apertures. Having one of these is a must for any EOS camera system...but, the user should:

- Forget about how great his or her cheap butt lens performs under the same conditions
- Don't mind blurry images and blame him or herself for such flaw
- Find ALWAYS a wall to take the picture from
- Walk around with a steady freaking tripod...AT ALL TIMES!!!!
- Shoot at VERY, VERY, VERY FAST SPEEDS.
- Understand that since the lens lacks of IS you have to LIVE with the fact that your images are ging to show some softness, camera shake or blur...which is, by the way...GREAT FOR PORTRAITS, SKINS, ETC...
- Even if the Factory Service Center diagnosis tells you that your brand new lens has back focusing problems and electrical problems don't mind that and rather listen to the people who actually have the lens and LOVE it.
- It's your fault and nothing but your fault if your images are blurred. Period.(Even if the ones you took with your cheap butt lens are sharp. Who cares.)

sam300 wrote in post #9504442
I know 1/20 will give a blur picture handheld, increase the ISO and make it 1/125 handheld or use a tripod.

Get some sunlight and shoot at ISO 100 at +1000th@sec, although a tripod or at least bracing the cam on something solid is best.

tsaraleksi wrote in post #9504479
At 1/20 and 70mm, the 24-70 is going to get smoked by the lens with image stabilization.

As usual, the error is 3-6 inches behind the viewfinder.

Check page three. Is the f/2.8 at 1/60 and at ISO 640 meet your expectations of sharpness?

Juan Huerta wrote in post #9504488
Based on many comments in here, maybe Canon should change these lines to sell its lens, so I figure it should go as follows:

Canon 24-70mm L USM Lens: This category features lenses with the most popular focal lengths, from wide-angle to telephoto, and a variety of apertures. Having one of these is a must for any EOS camera system...but, the user should:

- Forget about how great his or her cheap butt lens performs under the same conditions
- Don't mind blurry images and blame him or herself for such flaw
- Find ALWAYS a wall to take the picture from
- Walk around with a steady freaking tripod...AT ALL TIMES!!!!
- Shoot at VERY, VERY, VERY FAST SPEEDS.
- Understand that since the lens lacks of IS you have to LIVE with the fact that your images are ging to show some softness, camera shake or blur...which is, by the way...GREAT FOR PORTRAITS, SKINS, ETC...
- Even if the Factory Service Center diagnosis tells you that your brand new lens has back focusing problems and electrical problems don't mind that and rather listen to the people who actually have the lens and LOVE it.
- It's your fault and nothing but your fault if your images are blurred. Period.(Even if the ones you took with your cheap butt lens are sharp. Who cares.)

I can understand your frustration. Really.
But you can't ignore technique in the midst of trying to find out if your lens works. The basic rules of photography state that your shutter speed should at least equal your focal length.

The reason that your cheap lens did better in the same situation is that it has image stabilization.

Just TRY it with a tripod to see if it's user error. Canon will only call it user error if you send them these photo samples. So save yourself some time before you send it in and either get the shutter speed up or use a tripod.

You could very well still have problems with your lens. It's just easiest to know if the test is done properly.

Juan Huerta wrote in post #9504488
- Walk around with a steady freaking tripod...AT ALL TIMES!!!!
- Shoot at VERY, VERY, VERY FAST SPEEDS.

Juan,

Do you believe that 1/20th of a second with a 70mm lens on a 1.6x crop sensor is a fast enough shutter speed for a 24-70 to produce a sharp image?