24-70mm Blurry Images Horror Stories

haibane wrote in post #9506975
IS technology is invented for extremely low light situations in order to allow for a a shot to be taken at a shutter speed that is below the recommended shutter speed so that you can capture images at low light without having to go too terribly high with your ISO.

My point exactly. Photojournalism and this lens are not a happy marriage.

Is great for folks walking around pretty, shinny cars and flowers in the sun. Not for me sweeting bullets in the dark with two cameras on my shoulder and stuck in dark dresing rooms or churches...

Just my point, exactly. Thank you.

diputs wrote in post #9506996
The data the camera provides for you is just one option of a proper exposure. If you want your pictures to have motion blur, then maybe 1/20 is fine. If you are shooting action you need to be above 1/250. The camera is not going to know what you want, so you will have to make those judgements yourself.

According to your website, you went to school for photography. What did they teach you about exposure?

What do you think about books like "Understanding Exposure"

Edit: You obviously know how to select the proper shutter speed because you have nailed it in your "Nicole & Jeff: Beating Downtown Traffic" post.

My background is not in photography. I am a painter, illustrator,...that's what my BA is all about. I have jumped into this on my own, with the assisted technology and the "artsy" eye.

Juan Huerta wrote in post #9507026
I have jumped into this on my own, with the assisted technology and the "artsy" eye.

With you "eye", I would recommend reading "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson. It will open up all sorts of options to you.

Juan Huerta wrote in post #9507008
My point exactly. Photojournalism and this lens are not a happy marriage.

Is great for folks walking around pretty, shinny cars and flowers in the sun. Not for me sweeting bullets in the dark with two cameras on my shoulder and stuck in dark dresing rooms or churches...

Just my point, exactly. Thank you.

Yep. Hold out for the 24-70 IS and you will be happy. Other options are Use a flash or buy a camera that can go cleaner at higher ISOs. Most of the Photojournalists I'm familiar with shoot in broad daylight where 1/20th of a second is not a necessity or shoot with a flash. I can understand not wanting to use a flash though because its something else to carry and setup in order to light properly so I'd definitely recommend you stick with IS lenses like your current zoom.

diputs wrote in post #9507038
With you "eye", I would recommend reading "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson. It will open up all sorts of options to you.

With my "eye", I will. Thank you.

diputs wrote in post #9506996
The data the camera provides for you is just one option of a proper exposure. If you want your pictures to have motion blur, then maybe 1/20 is fine. If you are shooting action you need to be above 1/250. The camera is not going to know what you want, so you will have to make those judgements yourself.

According to your website, you went to school for photography. What did they teach you about exposure?

What do you think about books like "Understanding Exposure"

Edit: You obviously know how to select the proper shutter speed because you have nailed it in your "Nicole & Jeff: Beating Downtown Traffic" post.

Nah,...I wish. I enhanced that image big time with PS CS3. I wish I could do that manually.

Juan Huerta wrote in post #9507046
With my "eye", I will. Thank you.

I wish I had an eye for this. I hand my camera to an 11yo and the composition is better.

diputs wrote in post #9507070
I wish I had an eye for this. I hand my camera to an 11yo and the composition is better.

Don't be so hard on yourself. I figure that learning to compose is easier than learning all the ins and outs in "photo"-graphy.

Juan Huerta wrote in post #9506961
Well, when I tested both lenses on Manual Mode I was following the data that the camera was providing me with for an accurate picture.

Theory is one thing, the tools you have and work with is another. I was following and reading my tools while testing both lenses.

No - your camera was telling you, to the best of its knowledge, what would produce a correct exposure, not picture. You, as the photographer behind the camera, are the one who has to realize that a shutter speed of 1/20th is too slow to handhold to produce a good picture, even if it was a correct exposure. You could have also gotten the same results at 1/2" with an ISO of 100, but that would have produced an even poorer picture with a technically correct exposure.

You, not the camera, are the one who has to realize that since you can't open your aperture up any larger you need to increase your ISO. You clearly didn't, and proclaiming that you are right and all of the self-declared "professionals" of the world must be wrong because they knew that 1/20th of a second was too slow for that focal length and you didn't is not the way to learn from your mistakes.

By stating that everyone here attempting to help you must obviously be wrong, calling out everyone as arrogant "self-proclaimed professionals," and making blanket negative statements about a company whose lens you are misusing; you are just asking for a fight.

If you need a lens that has an image stabilizing unit, then if you felt that you needed the "L" you should have gone for a 24-105 IS. Otherwise, in addition to all of the above you also purchased the wrong lens.

As a previous poster suggested, you should read the book "Understanding Exposure" by Brian Peterson. It will help you to fully comprehend the relationship between shutter speed, ISO, and aperture. In addition, you might want to pick up a copy of "How to Win Friends and Influence People" by Daniel Carnegie.

Juan Huerta wrote in post #9507080
Don't be so hard on yourself. I figure that learning to compose is easier than learning all the ins and outs in "photo"-graphy.

And another book
http://www.amazon.com …oks&qid=1264902​809&sr=1-3

I've got to conclude that you just aren't that smart. There's no arguing. You had a bad copy. Get over it. You can't just judge every lens on the one copy you received. Grow up.

plasticmotif wrote in post #9507234
I've got to conclude that you just aren't that smart. There's no arguing. You had a bad copy. Get over it. You can't just judge every lens on the one copy you received. Grow up.

Since another personal attack was just oh so helpful. The first 100 other people that did this weren't good enough why?

Get a properly working 24-70, and start again... remember the AF looks for high contrast and locks on to areas that have it, sometimes "over looking" low contrast targets even though they may be dead center in the AF rectangle.

This is very much a walking lense... just goofing around with a towel in a hell hole.
52mm f/8 @ 0.6 sec, ISO200, M mode, AF was targeted at the glare on the glass globe.

HOSTED PHOTO
please log in to view hosted photos in full size.

HOSTED PHOTO
please log in to view hosted photos in full size.

plasticmotif wrote in post #9507234
I've got to conclude that you just aren't that smart. There's no arguing. You had a bad copy. Get over it. You can't just judge every lens on the one copy you received. Grow up.

!!!

blackhawk wrote in post #9507389
Get a properly working 24-70, and start again... remember the AF looks for high contrast and locks on to areas that have it, sometimes "over looking" low contrast targets even though they may be dead center in the AF rectangle.

This is very much a walking lense... just goofing around with a towel in a hell hole.
52mm f/8 @ 0.6 sec, ISO200, M mode, AF was targeted at the glare on the glass globe.

Awesome shot.

1/20s.... why are we even debating whether the lens is at fault.