Official: T2i/550D

welcome aboard.

EwanG wrote in post #10799312
I'd be curious to hear about other folks workflow as well. For the images I've spent time on, I keep both the RAW and the JPEG since I figure that's like keeping the negative and the print

Then again, I have two 4TB drives so space (so far) isn't an issue.

I'd like to "batch process", but when I manually tweak I don't select the same options all the time, so I'm wondering if there's a program that can look at the raw and give a "best take" so that I can have most of my images "ok", and only manually tweak those that show promise but didn't come out well, or where I "have" to make the image good. Suppose I could shoot "JEPG + RAW", but then I gather speed becomes a real issue?

Yeah. That's what I was thinking as far as the RAW images are concerned. I downloaded and installed the free trial of Paint Shop Pro Photo X3 last night and I'm experimenting with it. I started using PSP on version 6 in about 1999 for website graphics and such and have steadily refused to upgrade because each upgrade got slower and slower while as computers improved, PSP 6 got faster and faster. I tried PSP 9 just hoping it would handle the newer Canon RAW files but no joy.

OK. Feel free to ignore the remainder of this post. I was starting to get into the workflow and realized I was "thinking out loud" and I found that typing through the entire process was actually very helpful for me to figure out how I wanted to handle this since I'm brand spanking new to working with digital. So everything you see below this paragraph is probably more helpful for me than anyone else. I was about to delete it then decided it might possibly be useful for someone else although I doubt it....

Anyways:

In thinking along the same lines as my old film workflow, I would need to create a new folder within the RAW folder for each "roll", then name it appropriately. Each job would have exposures that start with number 1. But the camera seems to want to number all of the images sequentially so that when I put in an empty card, the numbers pick up where they left off.

Now I'm supposing there is a way to change this so that each time I put in a blank card, the numbering scheme starts over. And MAYBE there is a way for a new folder name to be created each time - preferably with the date in it. I haven't seen it yet, but with so many new things to learn I'm sure I'll either come across it soon or I've overlooked it. Maybe that's a XXD or even a pro feature that we just don't get on the Rebel series. I'm working on it though.

So going back to the film model - what I used to do was shoot the roll, process it and get proofs made. That would be similar to a batch process I guess. Then I would go through and see what particular shots I wanted to work with. The proofs were numbered on the back to correspond to its negative. When I found a shot I wanted to enlarge, I would crop it on a card and send it to the lab.

Now with RAW images, I don't see that it is necessary to go through the "proofing" step except that if you want to browse all of those images on other computers - even those that don't get "special" treatment - it could create some problems. So it would probably be a safe bet to make minor tweaks to everything in one sitting and then batch process the "roll". (Thinking this way would probably force you to keep fewer images on a single card before processing which reduces the liklihood of losing hundreds of images to a card that goes bad!) You would want to keep the folder names AND the file names the same so that you could easily refer back to the RAW image if you wanted to work with it or make enlargements.

From here, I'm kind of stuck. Suppose I take a single shot from a family picnic and decide I want to do something really neat with it. I add a vignette, slight soft focus, bump up the contrast a bit, do some touch-up work on my teenage daughter's face, then what? Which image do I work with? The RAW or the processed one? Or do I re-process the RAW image with a new filename.......wait - i'm onto something.....i think....

I batch process the "roll" at a higher compression ratio - say 3.5M each which makes them easily available for quick viewing, sharing, etc. Then if I want to work with one, I make my color, contrast and other corrections and re-process with the same filename with a "B" or such behind it. This one is at max resolution and minimum compression. Then I can edit the image and apply any special treatment I want and save that file as well. The new file is saved with the same name with a B so later I can always refer back to the RAW if I wish.

Hello everybody,

What is the most realistic picture style setting or CUSTOM setting in terms of colours, colour saturation, tone, etc? i find neutral too dull and faithful fairly dull?

what do you use?

Landscape.

Default I shoot always in RAW

I have a couple durability questions I hope someone has some experience with.

First of all, the manual says "Do not point the camera towards the sun. The sun's heat can damage the camera's internal components". This is something I never had to worry about before. Sure you don't want to zoom in on a high summer sun, but more to protect you eyes than the camera. I've shot my share of solar eclipses and sunrise/sunsets just fine in the past with film cameras. is this thing really that fragile that sunlight can damage it?

Also along the same lines, I used to pack my camera everywhere. Sometimes while out odf town and such if I had to go in somewhere I would leave it in the trunk. Film could go in my pocket but I never really had to worry about heat damage to the camera. I thought that not having to deal with film would make this more convenient, but with the above, I'm second-guessing that. Anyone have any real -world experience with this? Is it really that heat sensitive or is this just a liability protection for canon against stupid people who would leave their camera on the dash-board or sitting in the sun for hours on end? Should I have bought a 50D?

kfreels wrote in post #10805511
I have a couple durability questions I hope someone has some experience with.

First of all, the manual says "Do not point the camera towards the sun. The sun's heat can damage the camera's internal components". This is something I never had to worry about before. Sure you don't want to zoom in on a high summer sun, but more to protect you eyes than the camera. I've shot my share of solar eclipses and sunrise/sunsets just fine in the past with film cameras. is this thing really that fragile that sunlight can damage it?

Also along the same lines, I used to pack my camera everywhere. Sometimes while out odf town and such if I had to go in somewhere I would leave it in the trunk. Film could go in my pocket but I never really had to worry about heat damage to the camera. I thought that not having to deal with film would make this more convenient, but with the above, I'm second-guessing that. Anyone have any real -world experience with this? Is it really that heat sensitive or is this just a liability protection for canon against stupid people who would leave their camera on the dash-board or sitting in the sun for hours on end? Should I have bought a 50D?

#1 - this would apply to any digital, I believe - never seen this as a real issue unless you try to take a direct photo of sun blasting on a hot summer day. You can in theory fry your chip then. I'm not worried about that. I had my XTi for 3+ years and did many shots in any weather.

#2 - there's a link somewhere here to a YouTube video where somebody subjected 2 cameras (Nikon D70 and Canon XTi, I believe) to various kinds of heavy abuse, including setting the top of cameras on fire with a handheld torch. They both were still taking photos afterwards. Of course I wouldn't try it at home but these Rebel bodies are extremely tough.

Amamba wrote in post #10805836
#2 - there's a link somewhere here to a YouTube video where somebody subjected 2 cameras (Nikon D70 and Canon XTi, I believe) to various kinds of heavy abuse, including setting the top of cameras on fire with a handheld torch. They both were still taking photos afterwards. Of course I wouldn't try it at home but these Rebel bodies are extremely tough.

http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=D1tTBncIsm8

part 2: http://www.youtube.com …zsXeXCwuc&featu​re=channel

yeah i have seen both of theese
realy puts them to the test.

Wow. Nice! So I guess my trunk should be fine for a short while. Thanks!

will thye Canon gadget bag 2400 be big enough to hold a t2i gripped with 55 250 lens attached and the 18 55 lens?
and a few more goodies?

canon gadget bag 200

It holds my gripped 50D with the 28-135 attached, flash, and 3 other lenses. And lots of room in the pockets for extra batteries and whatnots. But wished I'd gotten a back pack, not really something you want to tote all day when it's full.

bulldogg7 wrote in post #10808633
It holds my gripped 50D with the 28-135 attached, flash, and 3 other lenses. And lots of room in the pockets for extra batteries and whatnots. But wished I'd gotten a back pack, not really something you want to tote all day when it's full.

For storage, this bag is excellent - I have the same.

The dedicated photo b/p is only good for photo gear. I have a large SwissGear general purpose / laptop backpack and it holds sh@tload of stuff, a camera with grip and lens, 2-3 additional lenses, flash, rocketblower, filters, also jackets, waterbottles, snacks for kids, hats & sunglasses... you got the idea. Because it's fairly well padded, being a laptop b/p, and has many different compartments, the camera stuff is just as safe in there. Throw jackets on the bottom for extra protection and you're golden.

EwanG wrote in post #10799312
I'd be curious to hear about other folks workflow as well. For the images I've spent time on, I keep both the RAW and the JPEG since I figure that's like keeping the negative and the print

Then again, I have two 4TB drives so space (so far) isn't an issue.

I'd like to "batch process", but when I manually tweak I don't select the same options all the time, so I'm wondering if there's a program that can look at the raw and give a "best take" so that I can have most of my images "ok", and only manually tweak those that show promise but didn't come out well, or where I "have" to make the image good. Suppose I could shoot "JEPG + RAW", but then I gather speed becomes a real issue?

you want to use either dpp that came with the camera on the cd canon provides you, or use adobe lightroom. lightroom lets you do things without converting the file out of the raw format, by keeping a sidecar with a list of what you did to the image, and applies it when you go to output to jpg, or print...