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FORUMS Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon Digital Cameras 
Thread started 08 Feb 2010 (Monday) 10:06
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Official: T2i/550D

 
Createsean
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Apr 28, 2011 04:39 |  #2986

RafaPolit wrote in post #12304220 (external link)
I actually only ever use Live View if the camera is fixed on a tripod and not moving (ie. shooting landscapes or static objects). The ability to preview the exposure is key here and the other advantage is that you can '10x zoom' in a corner and focus that point without the need to focus and recompose. So, for tripod use (and when NOT using the remote flash triggers as they won't fire in Live View, damn Canon!) usually Live View. Curiously enough, always on Manual mode for this scenario (even though the metering system does a fantastic job).

you can set everything up in live view and then switch out of it to use your remote.


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lcarri01
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Apr 30, 2011 08:28 as a reply to  @ post 12302425 |  #2987

Just got my T2i a couple of weeks ago. I've set it up to save in RAW+JPG. When I look at the JPGs from the camera and the results from running a batch save in DPP the images appear identical. I am ASSUMING that DPP uses the same JPG settings that camera uses and therefore I am getting no benefit from having the camera save a JPG other than the ability to immediately view the images after downloading in an application that doesn't support RAW. In actuality I am giving up some performance of the camera since the burst buffer can only hold 3 shots rather than 6.

So to summarize I believe I should save RAW only. If I am in a hurry I can then use DPP to batch save JPG images to view in a non RAW aware viewer or take my time in DPP/Photshop to clean up image before saving to a JPG.

Is my thinking correct?

Thanks

Larry



Larry
T2i Canon 18-55 IS Tamron 70-300 VC USD

  
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Rivest
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Apr 30, 2011 09:54 |  #2988

You are thinking right! You should use RAW only if you aren't on a hurry to watch/process/print your pictures. It'll also save you memory card space. And you buffer will like you a lot more ;)


Hi, I'm David.

  
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RafaPolit
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Apr 30, 2011 16:39 |  #2989

lcarri, yes you are correct!

Also, the ability to preview RAWs very fast (even on slower computers at full screen presentations) on Zoombrowser defeats any advantage of the JPGs and you'd save hard drive space and, as you mention, up the performance of you camera a bit as well.

If you haven't tried it, give it a shot at previewing in Zoombrowser, its really fast!

Rafa.


Rebel T2i | EF-S 17-55 IS | EF 70-200 f4L | EF-S 10-22 | 430EX II |
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Mackenzie76
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Feb 15, 2012 10:02 |  #2990

im just getting started with photography,and i have a few questions,can anyone help?




  
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Marm ­ O. ­ Set
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Feb 15, 2012 10:07 |  #2991

Fire away.
You can either ask in this thread or the other T2i thread.
And welcome to POTN


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still shooting but mostly different film formats

  
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Gil ­ Bean
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Jul 30, 2012 16:04 as a reply to  @ Marm O. Set's post |  #2992

HELP PLEASE!

Anyone here? Any suggestions for the CnF settings?

CnF 1 is a no brainer, to me.

If you Enable Highlight tone priority in CnF 6 you cannot Set H in CnF 2

CnF 3 if you set it to 1 or 2 it disables HSS with your Speedlites! That's crazy. The only logical option there is to set it to 0: Auto

If I set CnF 4 to 1 or 2 I may not be able to shoot at a crucial time.

CnF 5 setting 2 is out. Am I better off with 0, 1, or 3?

CnF 6 (mentioned in 2) am I better off with 12800 selectable or better Tone Highlights. I cannot imangine using 12800 but is it ever needed? When?

CnF 7 I have no clue. Suggestions.

CnF 8 looks like it should be 1 = Enable. Yes?

In CnF 9 if you set 1 or 3 you disable the halfpress button on your Remote Switch. Since I use a Remote Switch am I better off setting it to 0 or 2?

CnF 10 I would think 1 or 2 since there are already dedicated buttons for 3, 4, and 5 unless I am missing something.

CnF 11 and 12 ???

And which picture mode? I use Neutral or Faithful since I shoot RAW.

Do you have any in-camera Sharpening set? I person sets his at 7, which I think is extreme.

Any other suggestions/advice for a person completely NEW to the DSLR. I have used the G3, G6, and G12.

GilBean


G3, G6, G12, T2i + kit lens & accoutrements

  
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waterrockets
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Jul 30, 2012 17:16 |  #2993

Gil Bean wrote in post #14791575 (external link)
HELP PLEASE!
CnF 3 if you set it to 1 or 2 it disables HSS with your Speedlites! That's crazy. The only logical option there is to set it to 0: Auto

Well, it only affects Av mode.

Gil Bean wrote in post #14791575 (external link)
If I set CnF 4 to 1 or 2 I may not be able to shoot at a crucial time.

Don't use this unless you're printing images on site (like kids' sports). Do your NR in post (better algorithms and control).

Gil Bean wrote in post #14791575 (external link)
CnF 5 setting 2 is out. Am I better off with 0, 1, or 3?

0. (see above)

Gil Bean wrote in post #14791575 (external link)
CnF 6 (mentioned in 2) am I better off with 12800 selectable or better Tone Highlights. I cannot imangine using 12800 but is it ever needed? When?

I've used 12800 for indoor sports. It helps you with HAMSTRRfor noise reduction. Maybe go for tone highlights for outdoor sports and 12800 for indoor?

On both of my bodies, I've expanded ISO. I haven't tried Tone Highlights though. Take some shots and report back.

Gil Bean wrote in post #14791575 (external link)
CnF 7 I have no clue. Suggestions.

CnF 8 looks like it should be 1 = Enable. Yes?

In CnF 9 if you set 1 or 3 you disable the halfpress button on your Remote Switch. Since I use a Remote Switch am I better off setting it to 0 or 2?

8: if you don't know, you don't need it. If you start disturbing people with red grids on their faces, re-visit this setting :)

Gil Bean wrote in post #14791575 (external link)
CnF 10 I would think 1 or 2 since there are already dedicated buttons for 3, 4, and 5 unless I am missing something.

I like right-thumb menu access when my left is holding up my 70-200.

Gil Bean wrote in post #14791575 (external link)
CnF 11 and 12 ???

personal pref.

Gil Bean wrote in post #14791575 (external link)
And which picture mode? I use Neutral or Faithful since I shoot RAW.

shooting RAW, and processing each batch, it doesn't matter

Gil Bean wrote in post #14791575 (external link)
Do you have any in-camera Sharpening set? I person sets his at 7, which I think is extreme.

no

Gil Bean wrote in post #14791575 (external link)
Any other suggestions/advice for a person completely NEW to the DSLR. I have used the G3, G6, and G12.

Take lots of shots and get used to it. Read Understanding Exposure. Accept that your photos will get better and better, no matter how hard you try at the beginning :)


1D MkIV | 1D MkIII | 550D w/grip & ML| EF 70-200mm f2.8L| EF 24-105mm f4L IS | Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS | Samyang 14mm f/2.8 IF ED UMC | 430EXii | EF 50mm f1.8

  
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Gil ­ Bean
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Jul 30, 2012 18:38 |  #2994

waterrockets wrote in post #14791857 (external link)
Well,

Take lots of shots and get used to it. Read Understanding Exposure. Accept that your photos will get better and better, no matter how hard you try at the beginning :)

waterrockets, I know that took a lot of your time. I sincerely apprecite your time and answers. Thank you.

Gil


G3, G6, G12, T2i + kit lens & accoutrements

  
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waterrockets
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Jul 31, 2012 08:46 |  #2995

Gil Bean wrote in post #14792181 (external link)
waterrockets, I know that took a lot of your time. I sincerely apprecite your time and answers. Thank you.

Gil

You're welcome. FYI: there is a newer version of this thread: https://photography-on-the.net …p?p=14794437#po​st14794437


1D MkIV | 1D MkIII | 550D w/grip & ML| EF 70-200mm f2.8L| EF 24-105mm f4L IS | Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS | Samyang 14mm f/2.8 IF ED UMC | 430EXii | EF 50mm f1.8

  
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